The long and waffling answer that was no use to you has been deleted along with the rest of them. You were talking to an Artificial Intelligence Answer Bot, as it admitted here
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Your fridge is electronic, it doesn't have a thermostat. It is operated from the control board.
https://www.manua.ls/siemens/kg36vvw30g/manual?p=9https://www.google.com/search?q=siemens+kg36vvw30g+parts+diagram
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I had the same problem and fixed it by changing freezer fan found underneath the freezer inside body, just behind the ice delivery/crusher motor. You need to open all the inside upper components like ice dispenser, ice maker, ice crusher motor, lamps assembly and finally the rear upper inside body cover. First, check whether or not the fan has strong air ventilation before trying to change the ice maker fan motor.
Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation: first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice. AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section. u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmdsBkO46dk defrost therm. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SJN8oaA2XE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buX9KcZo2c0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVXT7pZyk_o https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.
The reason is due to something that occurs in the generator due to impedance and something called Middlebrook Criteria. The simple version is that the power supply in the fridge does not like it and wont accept it. The answer is a high quality power conditioner or a new generator. If you get a power conditioner make sure you tell the company you need a stable supply for a SMPS ( switch mode power supply) and check the return policy because it may not be enough to fix the issue and electrical parts are not returnable in some cases.
If your ice maker is making ice but not dumping it, it is likely a bad connection (on the end of the ice maker once you get it removed, under a panel) or a bad heating element. The heating element warms up to allow the ice to dump. If this is broken your cubes will form but will stay in the ice tray.
Try this, if you can.
Move the refrigerator out into the room and remove the cover ( metal or cardboard, usually) that covers the compressor.
On some models, you may actually have to look up inside the bottom from underneath it.
The compressor is usually round, sort of like a ball, and usually black in color, is usually smaller that a soccer ball.
It may have two electrical switches attached to it, and they should be together, not separate.
One is called a "Klix-on" in the trade.
This is the electrical switch that is supposed to start the compressor. (not the capacitor, that is yet another part).
After you find the "klix-on", plug-in and turn on the "fridge", tap the "klix-on" with a small hammer, and see if the compressor then starts.
If it does, you have found the problem.
I have purchased these for $ 38 locally.
God bless your efforts.
