Sears Grinders - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Remember if you are trying to change the left side it is a reverse thread nut. You would turn it clockwise to loosen. IF it is very tight, put a wrench on both sides. IF the right side comes loose, remove brush/grinding wheel, and re-install nut, with an extra nut locked to the first one, the put a wrench on both sides again.

You need a small variable speed grinder that has a fine grit stone on it. A regular bench grinder will ruin a pair of shears in short time. Look for one at Sears and explain your needs. Good luck!

It should still be under warranty if it's that new, so why not just return it to Sears? They'll replace it for you, or at least take it in so their service department can fix it. There wouldn't be any charge to you.

Hi.

The problem is most likely mechanic. Also wiring to ice-maker control and voltages from Icemaker Control and Motor Assembly must be tested.The ice-maker must be taken apart to fix the fault.
For safety reasons testing must be done by a technician. Always disconnect appliance from power during maintenance operations.

Here the icemaker schematics:





Here the part list.


Regards

white should be the neutral,the two blaks are your primary(power)

Replacement should be simple. Just do a one for one hookup with the new part, after you unplug it first.
For a diagram go to;

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=397.1949&productCategoryId=0721000&brandId=0247&modelName=CRAFTSMAN-1%2F2-H.P.-GRINDER&diagramPageId=00001&documentId=00023041&pop=flush

NO manual available . Pictures and parts.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=+25479,&productCategoryId=0740500&brandId=0247&modelName=CRAFTSMAN-ROUTER-TABLE&diagramPageId=00001&documentId=00041776&pop=flush

depends on condition and what comes with it. generally starts at $500 in good shape and up to 850 if excellent with many extras (chucks, rests, knurling attach, faceplates, etc) Also, check for accuracy...

Yes all the tool places say discontinued. Yes, bypass it, but make sure you don't overwork the grinder. https://www.google.com/search?q=2610904741 ..

Out of warranty ... time for a replacement machine.I would choose a different make. Assuming the batery is not the fault.

DIRTY CONTACTS POSSIBLY

Size for size and component value identical on replacement. Fit the correct part.

Considering how potentially dangerous grinding machines and wheels are and how much safety legislation exists about their maintenance, adjustment and use, a great deal of printed matter exists about these things and the wide range and selection of wheel material. You should have no bother finding useful information, fortunately bench grinders are extremely similar to each other... https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfimages/b6/b64b39fb-6d42-4fec-a274-76bbd950e6d8.pdf

Mmmm... that's a little more complicated. If you have a continuity / resistance meter, we can noodle it out, though. First, are the two white wires the ONLY wires coming from the motor? I suspect they are - that's not in conformance with any accepted color code, but it'll work. For the rest of this, I'll assume that the two white wires are the only ones from the motor. You'll need to meter the switch itself, with no wires connected to it. In the OFF position, you shouldn't find continuity between any of the four switch contacts. In the ON position, you should find continuity between two pairs of contacts. The black wire from the power cord should go to ONE of the two switch contacts in a pair that have continuity with the switch turned ON. One (either) of the white wires from the motor should go to the other switch contact IN THAT PAIR. That leaves you with one more pair that has continuity with the switch turned ON. The white wire from the power cord goes to one of those, and the second white wire from the motor goes to the other one. When you have it all wired up, plug it in & turn it on. If it's not right, it should immediately pop your circuit breaker. If it IS right, it should run fine. If it pops your circuit breaker, open it back up and swap one wire from the power cord and one wire from the motor.

Search using https://www.google.com or eBay.com Example of search result: http://www.1sourcecomponents.com/partinfo/Fa4-12/2bd%20trigger%20switch.htm

One turn.

Find a Single Pole Single Throw (spst) toggle switch at the local hardware store rated for the load of the grinder. Wire the switch in place and viola you are done! Machines are stupid;they can tell the difference between an oem part and a replacement.

You can get a replacement toggle switch at any hardware store look in the electrical department.

If you can't find the direct replacement check with Grainger or other industrial supply house ... https://www.grainger.com/category/push-pull-switches/automotive-electrical-and-lighting/fleet-and-vehicle-maintenance/ecatalog/N-15m5?okey=push-pull+switches&mkey=Push%2FPull+Switches+&refineSearchString=push-pull+switches&NLSCM=5&EndecaKeyword=push-pull+switches&searchRedirect=push-pull+switches&sst=subset&suggestConfigId=6&nls_boost_words=noContent