Rheem Heating & Cooling - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

If it only lights for a few seconds you most likely have a dirty flame sensor. Remove the sensor polish it with some emery cloth or very fine sand paper. reinsert. problem should be solved.

45,000 btu

You have either a defective thermocouple or a faulty gas valve. Look online for methods of checking the thermocouple milli-volts reading with a multimeter. 15 or 20 Mv is the average. --

One or more of the solenoids operated switches is your most probable cause. If you have a clamp on amp meter, measure the amps pulled by each component with a solenoid. The reversing valve solenoid and the main contactor solenoid. Each one of the these components are typically rated at 6watts. If your control voltage is around 25 volts, your amp draw should be about .24 amps max. If your transformer cannot be reset without blowing, install a 3 amp inline fuse so when the overload occurs the only thing that blow is an inexpensive fuse costing about 25 cents instead of a several dollar transformer. If your fuse/transformer immediately blows, try looking for a direct ground in the control wiring. If problems has persisted for a while, you may even have to look into replacing your thermostat wire. The control wire travels over the thermostat wire throught the thermostat and excess amps through the thermostat wire can break down the insulation jacket and short to the common wire causing the control transformer to blow. Another thing to check is the condition of your thermostat wire to check if the insulation is shredding off. Old thermostat wire, especially thermostat wire exposed to sunlight deteriorates quicker. Hope this helps.

Look at the nameplate data on the blower motor itself. If it is an older motor, you will need the horsepower hp, the rpm, the amp draw, and the size of capacitor. Always change the capacitor when installing a new motor. If it is a newer motor (ECM) you will most likely have to get a repair guy to get the motor and have it programmed properly at the dealer for your type of air handler.

You will need a 4 in 1 tool and new valve cores sold at most supply houses. It screws onto the service connection and the rod pushes in to unscrew the valve core. Once the core is loose, allow the pressure to push rod out, shut the 90 degree valve and unscrew the push rod, the valve core can easily be changed out for a new one by reversing steps. While your at it, get new valve caps with good orings to replace the old caps.

Get a high velocity air filter, not a pleated one. Check air into evaporator section clean and passing air well. Next, check proper operation of blower motor and wheel. Next, check for proper charge by performing a superheat and subcool calculation. You will need a repairmant to check these. Superheat and subcool will tell you if your unit is properly charged and if you metering device is working properly. A typical superheat and subcooling value is around 10 to 15 degrees.

You have one of three problems. First freezing can be an air flow problem. Air flow could be causes by using the new pleated air filters. The best one still blocks >35 % of the air flow. The best air filter for home ac units is still the blue mesh type Ace hardware sells. If you have a good filter then you need to check out the inlet side of your evaporator to see how clogged the air inlet is. If it is dirty the air flow is reduced and if reduced enough, the evaporator can freeze solid all the way out to the compressor. The second cause for freezing is a bad or improperly operating blower motor. The third possible cause for freezing is the metering device not functioning properly and metering to much.

sounds like your compressor is getting hot and shutting down have you washed your outside condenser coil? Could be dirty causeing high head pressure and shuts your compressor down. Try washing your condenser coil I think this will help you. If not you may be low on charge of Freon.

This should cover it.

Line freezing is typically caused by lack of airflow. Low freon may be another option, but checking your filter is the first thing to check.

Ask your installing company for the AHRI number. If installed with a matching furnace and coil as listed in the certification then you will get 16 seer rating. If they installed something different than what is listed in the certificate then demand all parts listed or a refund.

Unfortunately the quieter ones are more expensive. I have a variable speed Trane '19 seer' which is extremely quiet. But, with the higher 'seer' I save money on electric.

if it has battery backup in the clocking system then you may need to replace it

Check aux drain float switch.also 3a fuse on board

The transformer is located in the furnace. You might want to check to make sure the furnace door is on correctly brcause theres a swich that will open for safety . Also some have a fuse on the solid state board.

Check condensate water /drain stopped up. It will allow a start after a reset but then it shuts the combustion air fan down and that shuts the unit down this will require a service tech make sure their familiar with 95% units

Jeff most H/P are set up on a 2*f lag in the T-stat. If heat pump fails to come on or cant keep up it will fall back 2*f on the stat and the electric or auxiliary heat will come on so you don't lose all your conditioned air in the house. Ok so why isn't the H/P coming on first you must have a 24v signal to bring the unit on.That seems good because the stat is bringing the aux heat on. A service person should be called/ some possible problems, Low pressure switch lockout. Failed contactor, no line Voltage. I recommend a service call anything past the T- Stat. Hope this helps.