Psi Air Tools & Compressors - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

compressors that do not go past 50 psi generally have a failed poppet valve or reed valve in the heads of the compressor talk with a compressor repair shop for the filters and housings and where you can get the valves and gaskets

The pressure hose is not leaking on the connections between tank and cilinder the pressure unloader underside on the pressure switch with little blue or black little hose is closed (not blowing air out ) if the compressor is running? and is the check valve on the tank not dirty inside ?? if the pressure unloader or connections are definitely not leaking. A little piece shard of the membrane plate(s) thats insite the head of the pressure cilinder is broken and is inserted in the black rubber of the check valve . More possibilitys the pressure switch itself. the insite diaphragm membran has a problem replace always the whole pressure switch if its defekt.

Hard to give an exact number, however, as pressure and temp of air increases, the scfm drops as you see in your numbers. With low pressure such as 0 thru 25 the temp of the air is also low/nominal thus the scfm will be very close to the actual cfm listed for the compressor pump.

Any leak under the cover after compressor shuts off is caused by the in-tank check valve. Follow the discharge airline to where it attaches to the tank. This connection is the check valve. Debris from the pump cycle (bits of piston ring) will get trapped under the valve keeping it open. Good luck

unloader valve gone

Adjust the cut-off switch to a more appropriate pressure for your needs. It is the thingie that usually has the plug cord going right to it, and it will have a knob, dial, or screw. The normal convention is to turn the adjustment to the right for higher pressure, and left for lower.

Check your regulator to make sure its set to maximum. When was the last time you drained the tank, it may be full of water.

telepathy do not work... what manufacturer and model?!? from description can be check valve, can be internal non-return valve, can be piston, can be seal, can be membrane, can be spring valve holder ... make your pick... i hate ambiguous questions...

The rings are the most likely by your description. As the air pressure builds up more air goes past the rings and pressurizes the crankcase and probably causing the oil to foam. Rust pits and cylinder scoring exacerbates the problem. First try changing the oil and make sure the crankcase breather is open and baffles clean. Make sure you use compressor oil that is formulated to minimize foaming. Second, try adjusting the unloader to a lower pressure. 120 PSI is nearing the upper limits of efficiency and sealing for a single stage industrial compressor. Something like 110 PSI may do the trick. Third solution is to rebuild it, but it may last for many years at a slightly lower pressure.

Where the airline is attached to the compressor it should have a regulatorand gage that allows the air pressure to be turned down.

Hi Les, Sometimes the valves stick. you need to open it up and check. I presume that you checked filters, etc.

Mine has a little knob to turn to set the pressure. Mine is set at 120 lbs. Probably yours is set so tire pressure won't go over 40 but there should be a setting to set it what you want.

replace the regulator. the regulator tells the compressor motor when to start and stop.

It's not worth the aggravation trying to find the fittings to repair it, they are inexpensive to replace. Most repairs will eventually fail and you might be in the wrong place when it does. For around $10 - $15 why risk it.

Don F

some compressors require an air release that drains the pump head when the compressor reaches full pressure if this is not working the compressor tries to start with full pressure on the pistons which is hard on the motor. If you always heard a small release of air when the compressor shut off yours probably had this feature. drain all the air out and if it starts fine that may be where the problem is. If its one of the smaller oiless ones the motor start capacitor is probably bad

Check for leaks https://www.google.com/search?q=SINC+Compressor+low+sump+pressure+error ..

how to solve the this alaram what is the reason getting this alaram ,how to fault finding

Not being sure about this model but do you have the air hose connected to the tire vent and does it meet the minimum requirements? This may be the only way that the compressor can know how much pressure is in the tire and to start counting.

I have not been able to purchase replacement parts for these nail guns , however, have repaired them using parts from Bostitch framers and or just make the part. If the seal fits over the top of the cylinder, then try using seal from Bostitch framer part #N70155 fits a bit tight but works. Heat with a hair dryer to soften and install. If the seat is incorporated within the head valve, just dig it out and replace it with liquid two part urethane. Just mix and pour it in. After cleaning out the old seal, place head valve on level surface and pour in the mixed urethane till slightly over full to give the seal a nice crown. The finish nailer might also be repaired using other brand of seals. Remove the old part and take it to service center for a possible match. Good luck with your repair.