Powermatic Saws - Page 4 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Hi,

Looks like a 40A breaker .. would suggest having a review of the user/service manual located at http://content.powermatic.com/manuals/1660760K_man.pdf

If you can remove the switch you will probably be able to get one from Radio Shack etc fairly easily

If this helps, pls leave feedback, if not let me know and I'll try and help some more!

When you are facing the saw as if you would be operating, there are two adjustment wheel on the front and right hand sides of the saw cabinet. The front wheel adjusts the blade height, the wheel on the right side of the cabinet adjusts tilt. Each of these wheels are equipped with a locking nut, a smaller wheel in the center. this must be loosened before any adjustments can be made and should be tightened before operation. If there is significant resistance while trying to adjust either of these it may be a result of misaligned gear or excessive buildup of dust and shavings on the gearing.

align blade and fence to mitre slot.

this is most probably a wiring problem, either pay for it to be mended, or diy at your own risk.

okay
1st. UNPLUG FROM MAINS.
2nd. remove the front panal, which is around the on button
3rd. there should be a wire connecting the on button to the rest of the wiring, make sure that hasnt been knocked about, make sure the button is clean and then re-attach the front panal and start it up.

if this doesnt mend the problem, i suggest getting someone professional to fix it, this may cost though.

The square tooth screw and nut tend to fill with sawdust, which saturates with oil to cause the threads to bind (like a dirty nut and bolt.).

Clean the bolt with a cleaner, then apply a little wax to the threads (crayon or bees wax). Be sure to run the assembly up and down to cover the whole "bolt" and make sure to apply to the point of the screw that assures some of the wax works into the nut.

Wax is less likely to cause wood dust "mud" that WD-40 or other lubricants would cause.

Check the slides or guides that guide the assembly as well. CLean and lubricate with wax as needed.

Let me know what you find out.

That is the current setting for a motor-starter which is an overcurrent sensor. This is a circuit breaker like device that usually has a heater coil that opens a contact which cuts the power to the relay that powers the motor to prevent overload damage to the motor.

The dial is in AMPS and should be set just slightly higher than the nameplate amp rating for the motor.

I am searching for the same stuff and i came a cross this:
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/black-and-decker-9422-type-band-saw-parts-c-4167_4486_4645.html

The blade length is 52.75". Hope this helps!

If the motor runs without the switch then the problem is the switch. Pull out and blow it clean of sawdust and try again. Also check the connections at the switch to make sure they are tight.Hook a meter up and turn the switch on to check for continuity. Remember, switches wear out also and need to be replaced.

You can download it from here (Black and Decker now owned by DeWalt)
http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/SearchResults.aspx?q=band+saw+no.+9422+type+1

go to tool parts direct dot com.

Either it has a problem with a blade brake or the motor is siezing. Or the is a wiring problem. With the unit unplugged check and see if you can turn the blade by hand, if not the motor is the problem. If it does you could still have a motor problem by it drawing to much amperage or the is a wiring problem.

I can't tell you what the value is but I can share a tip I use whenever buying a used saw.

With the saw in the 90 degree position (Straight up) run a board all the way through the board. Then flip one half of the board upside down and place the two cuts together. If the blade is true the two halves should line up perfectly. If they don't that means the blade is out of square. While re squaring a saw is fairly easy, I would wonder why the blade was off and how often that would happen and therefore would likely not buy the saw.

Of a side note, Craftsman does make a great saw and they are fairly easy to work on and find parts for.

Good Luck

Check your alignment of the blades, sounds like they are hitting something and will not turn. To check unplug saw and try to turn blades by hand. If they don't turn thats the problem, if they turn check and make sure that the blade is the right type for saw. But if the regular blade works fine you have a binding problem with the dado blades.

Your saw motor is equipped with a two speed internal start switch. Over time saw dust will get into the contacts and cause the points to burn. You can pull the end off of the motor and take some 400 grit sandpaper to the contacts to clean them( there are two sets of contacts one works in the out position the other in the in position) it will be the set in the in position that is the problem. Gentle clean them, reassemble the motor end cap and it will work fine. I have to do this about once a year to my saws. I use my saws about 25 hours a week. I have been doing this to one of my Powermatic saws for 31 yrs. now.

No. Unplug saw remove saw blade grasp shaft that saw blade was on wiggle back and forth. Should not be too much play. After 10 years motor bearings are proably worn. Easy to replace

I would get a can of spray silicone, and soak all moving parts, that apply to that mechanism with it, and work it in good, it may just help. I would think that if the silicone doesn't do it, then something is obviously too tight at assembly or manufactured improper. If you could give me make & model, I may be able to find an exploded view of mechanism & help determine where binding may be occurring.

I think that you burned out the start capacitor(s) on your motor.

This is a common problem if the motor is overloaded.

It is also possible that the thermal overload is defective.

I have used this Saw alot and it takes two hands.

Still a great saw......

The wrong capacitor for one thing. There are starting caps and running caps. The starting cap is in the circuit for only long enough for the motor to get up to speed. If you have a Leeson motor that has a start and run cap then the run cap may not be the correct on. If you have a start cap blowing out I suggest you check the centriifugal switch in the end of the motor. It may have welded the contacts shut. In any case, I would take it to a motor shop .

If you want to buy a new one, the Grizzly G1022 Table saw is an exact replica of the PM#63. A owners manual and parts list is available at their website. Grizzly.com