Powermatic Saws - Page 3 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

There is a direct short some where.Unplug and turn the blade and listen to the bearings. One of the brushes might be worn down and be jammed against the armature. Five years of use and those brushes might be ready for replacement. If things turn out to be easy fix then changing brushes is not that hard.When you take them out you will see some small holes in the holders.When you put the new brush in the spring will try to push the brush back out,use a small piece of wire in the holes to hold it in.Next install the brushes back where they go.Check the armature out use a hacksaw blade to clean those grooves between the metal strips.Put the armature back in place and button it back together and pull out the keeper wires and your done.

Before you go into motor defects, is the drive belt tight enough?
Alex

Go to this site, find your model, look up the manual and you'll find a parts list. Using the parts number, search the parts tab for your part and price.I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread. If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

I am thinking that you have mistakenly crossed 2 or more wires, hopefully you wrote yourself a wiring diagram or there is one inside the motor cover. I don't know if I can find a wiring schematic for this tool. If you still have the owners manual look in there for initial setup and see if they provided one. If you need more help let me know and I will do what I can.

try lubing the screw gear with a dry lube spray and work the movement up and down. you might have to spray the gibs also to allow easier movement.

Try lubricating with silicone spray. I use it for just such things, and I'm happy with how it works. Also, clean and lubricate the lock on the elevation control.

--W/D--

you can buy a cord from anywhere as long as it is the same wire guage and approx diameter that you have now.

sounds like the on/off switch is bad. replace the switch with a switch that is of the proper voltage and rating value. a good place to find a switch is at your local hardware/industrial tool store. ( also try and find a switch at a industrial tool repair shop ).

c...

Look at the nameplate on the motor, it'll either say 230/115V and list the current draw for each, or it'll just say 230v. If it offers both then you'll find a plate where the wire goes into the motor, under this it'll tell you how to change the voltage the motor requires.

Keep in mind, at the lower voltage it'll draw twice the amps so you want to be sure you have a heavy enough circuit to feed it.

lp

There will be a tag on the motor that will give the specs. Sometimes they are hard to see from the underside and its not easy to remove the top see them. Try lowering the motor (with blade removed) all the way and use a digital camera to reach up into the cabinet and photoqraph the top of the motor. I had to take several since your shooting blind to get a picture of mine.

Go to eRP ----->link.

On the Powermatic 66's the first two numbers are the year in which it was made, so yours was made in 1997. The second set of two numbers is the model. The last numbers I"m unsure of but its my understanding that they represent the manufactured number, so yours was the 1,400th saw made for that year.

Hello. Remove that set screw all together. I believe you will find that there is a 2nd set screw as well. If either set screw is flattened on the end replace it. Set screws are available at most hardware stores. J.

Hello. The air regulator is part of the lower pulley assembly. Check the entire length of the air hose and remove any kinks or pinches in it. If the belt is loose and/or slipping, the air will not be generated at the desired rate. Check that. And here is a free downloadable owner manual in case you do not have one http://content.powermatic.com/manuals/M_1791216K.pdf

J.

I have seen a "buy it now" on Ebay for such a thing. Someone making a vacuum formed generic cover. Looks like it would work, even if it looks like a bubble-boy-solution.Another solution I have seen is a wooden replica with louvers for ventilation.Sheet metal would be a solution if you have a break and press to properly form, other wise it looks like you banged it our with a hammer and scrap metal.I need the same thing and will probably to the wood with a paint that hides the fact...

There are no grease fittings that I know of, I know mine doesn't have any, I would blame the trouble on a belt, or a blade. And if that doesn't do it, I would look at the bearings on the shaft. But that being the best saw made, as far as I'm concerned, You shouldn't have any problem. If it was a delta, you would be buying a boat just to dump the saw in the ocean. Hope this helps.

The factory never intended for you to touch the 4 bolts you mentioned. The table top is set parallel with the blade by loosening the 3 bolts (2 in front and one in rear on the outside of the cast iron table where it meets the base. These are easily accessible by sitting on a milk crate and looking up. They are 3/8 bolts with 9/16 heads.

While a crown is desirable as it helps tires to last longer, it is not absolutely essential. If properly set up the bandsaw should run fine, but just expect the tires not to last as long as crowned wheels as the crowns help keep the teeth off the tire surface.

A lot of equipment is built with sealed bearings these days--just a fact of life. Good luck!

You may have lost power on one of the wires to the motor. Check the wiring for breaks, if you have a meter make sure there is power to the 2 110 volt wires.