Powermatic Saws - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Yes. Buy any with a suitable connector and fit the plug for your country. Make sure the voltage is correct first!

Hi Marsha- Here is the Powermatic website for customer support. http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/service-and-support/customer-support/ Hope this helps.

There should be some screws on the bottom side of the fence that allow you to make adjustments. Loosen then slightly then set the fence to 90 degrees & then tighten them.

Replace the entire switch assembly, otherwise you will be doing a lot of work and buying individual parts that very well won't be available.

Descripition: its very Inside Diameter: 304.8 mm,12 in Outside Diameter: 444.5 mm,17.5 in Width: 63.5 mm,2.5 in A NSN Bearing

http://www.kakapart.com/parts/nsn-6285321.html EE291201 291750 bearing Tapered roller bearing 304 8 444 5 63 5 mm EOE... EE291201 EE291749 Tapered Roller Bearing specification http://www.cksbearing.com/showprod.asp?id=8054&listid=69

use a scroll saw for that type of work,you are ruining the bandsaw

we usually get our parts off of this site. http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ They have most of the things that we need.

it is not the switch. it is the start run capacitor. it is located under the hump on the motor. becarfull when you uncover it, it may still hold a charge. after you have removed the cover you must replace that shiny things that has all the wires in it. careful to put the wires back that way thy came. and get a capacitor with the same UF Microfarits.

93.5 inches Do you not have internet? I found the specs for your model instantly on Powermatic's web site. Don't be so lazy!!

I'm not familiar with your saw, but I'm familiar with table saws in general. The tilting is achieved by a worm screw on the end of the crank handle engaging a partial worm gear on the tilt mechanism. If all you get is clicking, the worm is jumping out of the teeth on the worm gear. It's likely that the shaft you're turning has slid a bit in its bearing and the far end of the worm is no longer constrained and no longer holds the worm tightly against the worm gear. I'd say just take the whole thing apart and re-assemble it. In the process, you'll find out how the worm has slipped out of place and you'll see how to put it back where it belongs so that the worm is supported on both ends.

L Luke, closest I could find is May 1983. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/655/6140.pdf

I have no idea what an overlocker is. Help me out.

Here is a link to the Accu-fence manual. It Includes the adjustments. From you description I think you will find that the adjustments will solve your problem http://content.powermatic.com/assets/manuals/2195075Z_man_EN.pdf

Probably a long out of date question but my suggestion is to purchase a link style belt to replace the old hard drive belt that comes with the saw. It'll deliver more power to the blade, run quieter and work better. I also recommend replacing the drive pulleys while you're at it. Get a couple of balance ones. You can get a link belt at Rockler or other woodworking outlets. http://www.rockler.com/1-2-power-twist-plus-link-v-belt

Have you squared the fence to the blade/table. If the table is true to the blade, your mitre slot should also be. You can then squre your fence to the slot

if its cutting in the angle. maybe the teeth on your blade are dull on one side and the blade is pulling material to the side. maybe the fence is ok.

Ok, basic question...is the lock engaged? It is the small knob at the center of the adjustment wheel. Is it possible the screw has been galled? Here is the manual- http://content.powermatic.com/manuals/1791227K_man.pdf

I believe that that model of Powermatic has a lock for the blade angle that also extends and retracts the casters for moving the saw. You may have unlock or change the handle position to allow for blade angle adjustment. You can get a manual or information at the Powermatic website to show you how to change the settings on the saw. Hope that helps.

As you only have 4 wires from the motor it should be straight forward as two would be from the start winding (Black and red) and the other the run winding (White with yellow stripe and Blue). You should be able to check this with a tester as there should only be continuity between the wires as mentioned above. Reference the thermal switch, I am not 100% sure on the color codes but have attached a diagram which should help but will advise as best as I can on the connection. The diagram is for a high/low voltage but you can disregard the winding on 3 and 4 but should help on the understanding. Join the blue and black wire from the motor together and connect to the black wire from the supply. You should be able to run the motor (Excluding the thermal switch) by connecting the White with yellow stripe and the red wire together along with the white from the supply. To include this switch I would presume that you would connect the red wire from the motor to the brown wire from the thermal switch, the yellow wire from thermal switch to the White with yellow stripe from the motor and finally the white wire from the thermal switch to the white from the supply.

You can only tell by using a continuity tester or a multimeter and some troubleshooting techniques.