A.O. Smith Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

1) Copy following link for igniter troubleshoot resources:http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#igniter If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

If power is applied and motor hums but does not start spinning, the start capacitor is probably burnt out. Replace it with a 163-193 uf at 125vac. That should solve the issue.

thats only condensation if the drain line at bottom is clear it should drain out

Usually nothing to worry about. Sometimes sediment in the bottom of the tank will cause small air pocket to form and pop. The cure is to drain and flush the tank. Here is a pic on how to do it. And a link to the AO website manual

Maybe this error code chart for AO Smith Power vent will help you figure it out. Also link to AO Smith website. Good luck. J https://www.hotwater.com/support/gpvh-50

sounds like the limit switch is bad

Smith GAS WATER HEATER Installation Instructions And Use Care Manual...

You need to change the elements out

Try this link for help. They suggest emailing before calling:

http://www.mypool.com/introduction.htm

UST1102 1 HP AO Smith Motor UST 1102 120 Yes i believe you can.Follow the link.

if thermocouple goes bad(pretty common) then pilot light goes out and gas stops flowing.

sounds as though it might possibly not be igniting first time , it is ignitiong the gas that is present but not staying lit, You should probably have it looked at / serviced. If you are in the UK it is usual to have a regular service to catch such things. A recommendation from friends for a good boiler technician might be worth taking advantage of .

Did you try the Century A.O. Smith B230SE motor without the center screw? I'm having the same problem and I'm asking the reseller for advice. It would be great to know if I need the center screw is required? The impeller screws on the shaft, but is the center screw required?

if it is gas have a gas fitter look at it

the main jet is open before the pizo starts for safety sake have a gas fitter look at it

It depends on the model but AB on most of the AOS the A & B LED's lighting up usually means ignition/flame failure. Ignition/flame failure: The gas control valve/thermostat has reached the maximum number of retries (3) for ignition and is currently locked out for one hour. Cycle the power to the water heater off and on to reset. Basic troubleshooting/solutions: 1 Ensure flame sensor is making good contact with the burner flame and ensure flame is steady. Also ensure supply and manifold gas pressures are within the requirements in the installation manual. 2 Gas supply is turned off - pressure is too low. For low gas pressure, consult with your gas utility. 3 Ensure the flame sensor is clean - use fine steel wool to clean the flame sensor. 4 Check igniter assembly plug and the socket on the bottom of the gas control valve/thermostat for good connection. Replace igniter assembly if the plug is worn or damaged. Replace the gas control valve/thermostat if socket is worn or damaged. 5 Replace igniter assembly. If this does not apply to your model then here is a link to the instruction manuals for all models: Residential Gas

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermocouple.html http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/promax_lo-nox-power-vent.pdf gene If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

turn off gas. turn off water. drain water heater by connecting garden hose to drain valve and place discharge end somewhere that that will safely handle the water.(sink, outside,floor drain). lift temp. relief valve to allow air into the tank so a vacuum doesn't prevent draining. carefully remove the leaking valve by using a pipe wrench. counterclockwise to loosen. there may be a little water left in the bottom of the tank, so be ready with a wet vac. buy a new valve at your local hardware store, along with a roll of teflon tape. wrap the teflon tape around the threads in a clockwise rotation. don't use more than three or four wraps. replace the valve by turning in a clockwise rotation. tighten till snug. don't overtighten! if it still leaks a bit at the threads, you can tighten a bit more.

That sounds bad. Check the oil level first. If that's good, then somebody needs to work on the inside of your engine - maybe you only have a bad oil pump, maybe you have more damage than that. DO NOT drive it this way - not for ANY distance! Don't even START it.