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Display on maytag oven 8114p471-60 went blank - Fixya

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Jan 20, 2013 - Stove top electric ignition still works fine, so there is power going to the .... maytag cwe4800acb oven shuts off and display goes blank during .

have an electrician check the element wiring as it should only get red when on full heat but then be controlled by the thermostat it appears that the element is bypassed the thermostat or the thermostat is failed for the bottom not to get red is a further indication of incorrect wiring of the elements

Hello. I need the model number of your unit to help you accurately with exploded parts diagrams and part numbers. From what you describe, it sounds like you have a defective oven temperature sensor. There are only 2 things that govern temp in a range--the EOC(main oven control board) and the temperature sensor. It's connected to the main board by a 2-wire harness. Usually, there is a connector at the end of the short pigtail coming from the sensor. The contacts in the sensor can oxidize, breaking electrical connection or, the signal can be lost due to a broken wire, loose connection, etc. Most often, the sensors will have an electrical resistance of approximately 1100 Ohms +/- 10%. Usually, if the sensor checks good, the main board is the culprit. Hope I helped you!

I think it would be a good idea to find the electric box and then: 1) find the circuit breaker or fuse that controls the oven. That information is supposed to be written on the inside of the door of the electrical box. 2) Turn off the circuit breaker, or remove the fuse that is supposed to be the one. 3) Pull the oven out from it's place and try to get behind it to test (with an ohm meter or a multi-meter) and see if the unit is getting electricity at all. Obviously, you will need to turn the breaker back on or screw in the fuse. BE CAREFUL, THIS IS DANGEROUS STUFF YOU ARE DOING. Sounds like you may need to reset the circuit breaker ( that means to turn it off and on a few times) or to replace the fuse. God bless you in your efforts.

E0 F2 is usually a stuck key on the keypad. You will need to replace your keypad most likely. It's possible to be caused by the control board also. If it is NLA we can rebuild it for you at fixyourboard.com

http://www.maytag.com/digitalassets/MLPDF/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%208112P175-60.pdfhttp://www.manualslib.com/manual/638533/Jenn-Air-Amc2206b.html#product-MEW5530

Guess you should replace the thermostat

test with a multi meter on each end of the wire prong connector, place each end of ur meter prong on both 1 and 2 of the connectors, and test for continuity ohms or a close circuit. have ur meter on a low ohms setting as the level of ohms is low. if it shows an open circuit or no continuity, its defective. Infinity is the meter not showing anything like a number 1 and not moving?

Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times: 1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary. 2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection. 3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires. 4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board. 5. 6.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating. If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse. THINGS TO CHECK: the broil element is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage. If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. The bake element is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off. Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. The oven safety valve (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter. Surface burners are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter. You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals. On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. The infinite switch on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch. If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. Most modern ovens use an electronic control board to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced. The oven burner igniter commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.

i have same problem, please help!

I had to replace my igniter to get mine to work. I did it myself for $65.00 Mine the gas just would not stay on to heat up.

Elements usually either work or they don't, if it comes on the but does not give enough heat the thermostat is bad. If it was cleaned inside recently, check the routing of the stat lead perhaps its kinked etc.

Yes, Maytag part number will cross over anyway. Maytag is owned by Whirlpool.

if u look closely u should see some screws holding it in, are ut talking about the flame sensor plate or the bottom plate?