Maytag Dryers - Page 8 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Likely he heat element relay has welded itself closed (on). It happens. You may need to replace the relay. Dont know if that model has a replaceable relay as some require the whole control board $$$s be replaced instead of ~$15 relay.

How old we talking? What model? Mine opens on a bottom panel in the front.

Your symptoms suggest that the fan motor is not working or the fan blades will not turn. Have someone listen or stand by the exhaust vent to feel for air flow during the 10 seconds that the heating element first heats up. The fact that some component, probably the overheat thermostat is "asking" or demanding the unit to shut down after some time suggests that heat buildup takes place with no way to vent it or remove it from the clothes heating space. Some dryers have a heating duct formed by part of the hollow door and a thermostat might be "hiding" there and delivering the shutdown if there is lint buildup in the hollow door.

You have an electrical short.

There is a wetness sensor bar assembly inside the dryer. It looks like a flat hotdog with two metal strips on it. It is near the front of the machine and the clothes have to touch it when they are drying. If the unit is dirty, damaged or disconnected, the sensor wont tell the program to keep running and the unit shuts off. The sensor may have lint or softner on it, may have come disconnected in back. Dont disassemble the drier without unplugging the power first.

Typically a roller or pulley or glide problem. Possibly the motor or unit isn’t stable / unlevel.

Broken belt it just fall off from idler pulley removed 3 screws from the back side to lift upper penal Xander fo vision check

While cleaning the lint you may have dislodged something as innocent as a shirt button that now found its way to the fan housing and is being slapped around by the fan blades. If you can get to the fan (usually of type squirrel cage) you might go after it armed with a small vacuum cleaner to suck up extra debris.

If you have the time and patience, take the back cover off the dryer if that is physically possible and sit listening to the pulley that keeps tension on the drum drive belt. It could be that the pulley bearing is going bad and does not make a noise until after it heats up under load. Or if you are mechanically inclined, after all the trouble of actually being able see the tension pulley, take the belt off the pulley and try spinning the pulley by hand (with everything unplugged). If the pulley doesn't spin or turn freely, it is a candidate for replacement.

Check the door lock switch to see if it is working. Or possibly something called the relay which would be likely more expensive part to replace.

Heat circuit also runs through timer or control board, thermostats, fuses, and motor. Be sure there is 220v getting to unit.

Does opening door cause it to stop?

185 seems to be a flame sensor? Can’t find 293 at all.

the starter switch on dryers is a 'momentary' contact switch. It is needed for only a second to start the dryer. Unfortunately, there is no way to bypass it. Seems that it is possible the switch itself is bad, or what is called a starter capacitor inside of the dryer. In either case, the broken part must be changed.

Searspartsdirect.com

Check heating element and thermal cut-off

Things that cause a dryer not to run: motor, broken belt, thermal fuse, timer, door switch, start switch, improper voltage, and wiring.

Sounds like you need a new timer. If you do not know anything about them you need to hire a repair person.

available on the internet.

Motor most likely bad