To replace the ignitor,UNPLUG THE DRYER,use a flat blade screwdriver placed between the outer edges of the top/front panel and pop the top up,then lift the top back against the wall(its hinged and wont fall off),remove the wires to the door switch,use a digital camera and take picture of wires so ya know where they go,in the top corner(s) of the front panel will be a screw that holds the front panel to the sides of the cabinet,remove those screws and tilt the front panel out about 6-8" and lift the panel up and out. The ignitor will be in the burner tube on the lower right side of the base frame,unplug the ignitor and remove it,install new one(the plug is keyed and will only fit in one way) Reassamble in reverse order.To reistall the front panel their are brackets in the base frame,slip the notches of the front panel into those brackets and line up the pins with the holes in cabinet.WHEN REPLACING THE IGNITOR ONLY HANDLE BY THE CERAMIC BASE AND DO NOT TOUCH THE FILAMENT
Good luck i hope this helps ad if it does please give me 4 thumbs up
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE STARTING ANY REPAIRS
Your problem sounds like drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication, or maybe your drum belt has slipped off of the idler arm pulley.
Note: This method works with most front loading machines.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer if you have to. Note: Some tops hinge and tilt backwards so they do not have to be removed and the electrical console with stay with the lid. Also remove the lint filter and the screws holding the lint filter housing in place. Be REAL CAREFUL not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer. Remove the front of the dryer by removing two screws located on either side of the top of the dryer housing and unplug the door switch. This will expose the drum and belt. Remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm pulley and motor.Now is a good time to replace the front felt seal on the drum if it needs to be replaced. Be sure to use a good grade of weatherproof cement on the seal to glue it to the drum, sometimes the glue is furnished with the seal. Now is also a good time to check the belt to see if it has slipped off of the idler arm pulley and also to check the belt condition for wear. Be sure to note the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt. Check your drum rollers for flat spots or wear, if they have flat spots they will make a thumping type of noise or if there is too much wear on them replace them. If the drum rollers don't have flat spots or wear on them then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3 in One oil, or a light lubricant like Vaseline. Reassemble the dryer. Plug back into your electrical receptical. This should solve your noise problem. This is a FREE answer, Please take time to rate me
Hi,
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly.
if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
check outthis electric no heat tip...
If you are having dryer problems and you cannot even get the
thing to start, then you might want to start going through this check
list of possibilities. There are a number of things that can cause your dryer to not run.
A couple of the most common problems are the thermal fuse has blown or the door switch is not operating properly. On many dryers if the thermal fuse blows, the dryer will not run at all. This fuse can be checked with an ohm meter. It should show continuity if it is okay. If there is no continuity then you need to replace it and also find out what else failed. This is a safety device
that usually blows because something else allowed the dryer to get too
hot. It is usually located in the back of the dryer, on the blower
housing. Some are oval in shape and others are rectangular, usually with
two wires attached.
A defective door switch or a bent door switch lever can also cause you to have problems. If the lever is broken or bent it will not activate the switch. If the switch is broken, this also will not allow the dryer to be started.
The push (or turn) to start switch
can go bad, but is unlikely. To check this, hold it in or turn it and
then check to make sure you have continuity with an ohm meter.
If the dryer starts and then stops when the switch is released check the control board or the ?even heat? control on some model dryers. Some dryers have a belt break switch that can fail or your belt may be way loose or broken.
Check
for burn marks or burnt wires at the terminal block on your dryer, poor
connections can cause all kinds of problems. Also poor connections can
cause fires.
A bad power cord also falls into this same category.
Of course, always check that you have the proper voltage to the outlet that you are plugging into.
Hi,
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly.
if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
check outthis electric no heat tip...
Look for lint and other things which could cause overheating. Remedy that and then swap out the thermal limit: You need to move this one to a nice work bench. The belt can be a bear to put back. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE STARTING ANY REPAIRS
Your problem sounds like drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication, or maybe your drum belt has slipped off of the idler arm pulley.
Note: This method works with most front loading machines.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Note: Some tops hinge and tilt backwards so they do not have to be removed and the electrical console with stay with the lid. Also remove the lint filter and the screws holding the lint filter housing in place. Be REAL CAREFUL not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer. Remove the front of the dryer. This will expose the drum and belt. Remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm pulley and motor.Now is a good time to replace the front felt seal on the drum if it needs to be replaced. Be sure to use a good grade of weatherproof cement on the seal to glue it to the drum, sometimes the glue is furnished with the seal. Now is also a good time to check the belt to see if it has slipped off of the idler arm pulley and also to check the belt condition for wear. Be sure to note the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt. Check your drum rollers for flat spots or wear, if they have flat spots they will make a thumping type of noise or if there is too much wear on them replace them. If the drum rollers don't have flat spots or wear on them then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3inOne oil. Reassemble the dryer, plug back in. This should solve your noise problem.
The thermal fuse kit is accessible from the top of the dryer. Disconnect power and using a putty knife, release the two spring clips holding the top cover to the cabinet. Insert the putty knife in the seam between the top cover and the cabinet at about 4 inches from the sides. Lift the top cover when the first spring clip is released while releasing the second clip then lift the top cover to the rear of the dryer.
The high-limit thermostat is located on top of the heater housing at the rear of the dyer. Remove the screw that secures the high-limit thermostat bracket and replace the thermostat.
The thermal fuse is located on the right hand side of the heater housing and is mounted on a bracket. There's a 1/4" hex-head screw that holds both the heating element and thermal fuse brackets. Remove the screw and the thermal fuse bracket can be lifted off.
The thermal fuse bracket has two locating tabs, one at the bottom and the other is half-way up. Lift the bracket to clear the tabs then remove it and replace the thermal fuse. Reinstall the thermal fuse and high-limit thermostat brackets in reverse order of the removal steps. Press down on the top cover against the cabinet to reengage the spring clips.
