KitchenAid Ovens - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

you ll need to pull unit out to replace bulb, 2 scrws remove side trim of oven, 3 or 4 screws remove trim under micro; above oven, 2 more screws behind that grill will release micro from supportthat should free it up enoug to slide foward 6 or 8 inches( the bulb is ontop of the cavity) good luck!

yes you wilkl need to remov ethe micro from the oven mountingin order to access the light bulb (dumb-design) but no way around it

there should be separate fuses for the top and bottom oven. check all of them if this is not the problem maybe your burner in the bottom oven is burnt.

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Go to manualsonline.com. They will ask for make and model of your appliance. Most manuals are free. Give it a try.

Lisa, I do not have a solution, but have the same problem. My KA superba micro has been used about 10 times. While it was off, and while no one was home, the outer glass in the door shattered. I suspect this may be a defect.

switch off electricity to oven, then switch it back on - that reboots the computer that controls the oven.

your door or interlock switch is not closing press on the door see if it stars if so you will have to check you alignment if not the switch could be bad you wuill need to open the ctrl panel to get to the switches unplug first

send me am e mail at [email protected] with the model number

KitchenAid Architect Series KEBC107KSS Electric Single Oven problem error F1E7

Good Question. I work on all brands of appliances, and I swear by KitchenAid-Whirlpool appliances. That being said, I do not recommend oven-microwave combinations, because the ovens will last 30 to 40 years, but the microwaves start having major repairs from 6-10 years on. I would bite the bullet and put in a separate Panasonic microwave (with an inverter) and a seperate KitchenAid Oven. You also need to install a 2000 Joule or higher surge protector, for your microwave oven. Panasonic microwave ovens are better than the KitcheAid ovens at this time.
I would suspect that the touch panel-control board failure may have been caused by the repairman, just because the timing is a little too close to the mag repair. No way to tell you for sure, and I myself have had control board failures the same day that we changed a light bulb, so anything is possible. Usually a factory defect is going to show up before 8 years. In the last 4 years in the greater Seattle area, 70 - 80% of our business is from power surges hitting the electonics in the different appliances, so this could also have been what has caused your repairs. On a 240 volt Oven, the only way to protect it from power surges is to have a whole-house surge protector installed on your house electrical panel. You still need to have individual surge protectors, above 2000 joules, for your appliances that are 120 volts. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists

Junk it and buy new, do not run this anymore may catch fire.

Disconnect it from power outlet for 30 minutes to hard reset the owen. It may be a faulty control panel or the fan thermistore switch.

On this double oven, each door has it's own latch mechanism that consists of a motor, a position switch, and the door switch used to activate the cavity lights. Because the error indicated a latch failure (and the bottom door was locked), Start by cycling the power to the unit. Each time the power is removed and then applied to these ovens, both latches will lock then unlock the doors to ensure they are in the home open position. By doing so, you might be able to get the bottom oven door opened allowing me access to the latch assembly. With the latch removed, I try to begin a clean cycle so you could watch the motor operate and you will probably find that it will start to turn, but never would rotate enough to lock the door. Since the position switch was not actuated at the end of the motor operation, the F5 E1 error was again displayed. Replace the motor assembly E

Hello, You need to pull the oven out and see if you are getting 240 volts to the bake element (take the back panel off, press bake and start and put your meter lids on each prone of the bake element). If you do get 240 volts to the bake element then the element is defective. If you don't get 240 volts then you may be looking at a faulty relay board. Appliance Repair Brooklyn http://appliancerepairbrooklynnyc.com/

Good morning, the fan noise is probably the cooling fan in the control compartment. With an electric oven, it could be a resettable thermostat that tripped and needs to be reset. Or it could be a bad heating element. Display will display lot if it can't bring the oven temp up. Hope that helps.

you have a bad computer board or clock assy. same thing the most common thing that cooks the board is heat and usually from self cleaning the oven,next time send the model number,if this is a slide in stove under the oven door is a drawer,open it and look at the frame,you'll see a tag with model and serial numbers,if that functions by itself you have a bad board.

have looked at the schematics can't find a fuse anywhere see all parts here... Kitchen aid made by whirlpool.. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-whirlpool-kgst307hbs6.html bad temp sensor maybe?

You will need a new igniter module. The igniter module is told to spark by the control panel. There is also a flame detection for electronic start and that could be bad too.