KitchenAid Coffee Makers & Espresso Machines - Page 2 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

You will need to test for where the power stops & check the fuses on each boiler for continuity. If you find any blown then replace the thermostat on that boiler along with the fuses. The thermostats are different rating for each boiler, don't mix them up. It's highly unusual for both boilers to fail at the same time. Occasionally one of the boiler elements can fail, there are 2 elements on each boiler, check them for continuity. If you have any boiler leaks then replace all the seals on that boiler, the steam one is the one most likely to leak. Buy your own seals using the old ones as samples from someone specialising in O ring supply. There are 5 seals on each boiler. Do not purchase rubber or silicone seals, only use Viton seals, they are high temperature.

You need to replace the boiler top that includes the elements. When one element has failed the other one stops as well if it is included in the circuit, it's the same as having a broken wire.

Test each element for the correct resistance. Check the thermal fuses for a circuit, they are held onto the top of the boiler with a screw down bracket. Check for a circuit through the thermostat.

If the grinder is turning and not stalling it sounds like an assembly problem.

It sounds like the accessory drive gear and the bevel gear have failed. It's unlikely the gear on one will fail without wrecking the other. It's going to involve splitting the gear cases to find out. Back cover off, black wire and white wire unclipped from speed control plate. Upside down on a towel and pedestal off. Chrome drip ring off, punch pin through on planetary and remove it. Undo 9 screws through from bottom gearcase and you can lift the bottom case off the top and find out. If the gears are ground up you will need to clean all the old contaminated grease out and replace it along with the damaged gears. The grease is special food grade grease available from kitchen aid probably in a large enough tin that will ensure you never need to buy more in your lifetime.

Stick a thin blade up into the edge of the screw hole and try and flick it out. It may happen easier if you get the coffeemaker up to temperature. It is just the coffee gunk holding it in. It may be easier to warm it up, remove the tank and lie it in its back on a towel. The screen should clean up after an overnight soak in Coca Cola and then a brush up with an old toothbrush. The place where the screen sits will clean up with a stiff wire brush. There are 4 holes equally spaced towards the middle around the centre screw hole, clean them carefully with a drill of the correct size if they are blocked. That part is actually removable, held with in place with 2x allen head screws but sometimes very difficult to remove. Cleaning with the wire brush and the drill bit is normally 90% good enough anyway.

If it is an Error 2, Drain the coffee maker and open up the bottom part. You will see the burner with a metal clip. There are Two components on the burner. You want one with the brown wire with a white cloth coating. Slide the coating down to expose the Thermistor. Take a small piece of alluminum foil and cover the thermistor. Slide white cover back over the newly covered thermistor and put you coffee maker back together and enjoy your coffe

I found that the following clears the "clean" word that is flashing:

1. Hold MODE and the + button for about 5 seconds.
2. After the coffeemaker chimes 2 times, release the buttons.

Hopefully, the clean message will go off. As an aside, the warmer plate is so awful looking. I am replacing this coffee maker (KM222) with another (and cheaper) one.

Hi James, if colours to terminals is good enough then I can take a photo of the relay and email it to you, if you are brave enough to supply one to me. Alternatively mine is screaming_skullathotmail.com Note I did not use the at symbol so as not to attract attention.

External visual cleaning is not enough. The coffee maker needs internal cleaning. Please descale the machine to remove the error message. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/edward_bbd2c7ff4ee1828a

There are several switches inside one of those if it is model KES100. Best to supply model number and say which switch it is, without looking I can think of 4 switches off the top of my head. I'm in New Zealand and have 3 of them in stock.

Check the elements, there are 2 on the steam boiler, if 1 is open then that stops them. If your boiler comes complete that's fine, if you just get the element part then you must replace all the seals. I replace the seals on a new boiler anyway, originals are silicone and I upgrade to viton seals. Large one at the bottom, 3 small ones on side of base and one finger sized one at top steam pipe. Check switches for operation, sometimes they stick, if CRC does not fix them then replace. Make sure steam tap shuts off properly. The group head seal goes hard over time, replace while you are working on it if it is. Check thermostat has continuity when cold, on the side at the back of the boiler.