Hoshizaki Freezers - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

You might need to deep clean Your machine. Might be float switch clogged.

Too much ice is usually and indication that the bin thermostat is not functioning correctly. It has either come out of it's holder, is not calibrated properly, or has lost it function and needs replacing. The thermostat "Kills" power to the control board when Ice comes in contact with it and shuts the machine down. Hoshizaki says it should happen within 6-10 seconds of ice contact after the end of a harvest cycle. I would start there first.

Need some more details. Size of cubes too small? Batches of ice take too long to make? (Over 45 minutes?)

On Hoshi ice maker, if coils are HOT, it is passing hot gas from compressor into the lines. After the defrost of the first cycle, after this cubes are completely cleared from the plates, the "Hot Gas Valve" should close and the freeze cycle should start over. It sounds that the valve is sticking open and not stopping the hot gas from entering. Look there first.

KM says this is an ice maker. Reset button is on the control board. Board is in compartment on the right side where the power switch is located. Remove 2 screws and remove cover by sliding forward. Watch for wires, do this carefully. On the board, up at the top, is a small, white button. With power on, push the button.

Something is holding your Ice Slab at the bottom from your description.
Some causes are
1 Dirty - scaled up evap, or just dirty w muddy covering,
2 the vacuum breaking holes are stopped up If it is making a sla whith the evaporator warm no ice take a flashlight and hold it where its shining to the back of the evap and look for the light on th cube forming slots next to the ones your shining the light into Upper corners of each hole must be open.
3 The slab is freezing uneve most like cause is a stopped up distributor tube at the top thats feeding the water down the evaporator.
4 On some models thay had a closer fitting water curtian (the cover in front of the slab) and the top of the sheet touched this and caused the slab to stay uprite and continue the "slide" forward.If your curtian is of the older style and has metal hooks on it with verticle slots n the curtian look at the slots and see if the slots are worn making the whole curtian slide down ward I have seen this several times.4B On some older models there is also a plactic coated wire diverter on the bottom infront of the evaporator. If the palstic coating is gone or the bottom or is not even, the slab could hang up there. 4C If you have the newer plastic pins make sure thay are seated in the mounting properly.
5 Nickel plating could be comming off (any copper color on the lower 1/3 of the evaporator?).
6 I have seen some of the horizontal plates them selves be loose and not in flush try pushing and pulling on them especially the ones at the bottom. ANy that are loose and comming out is your problem.
This lengthy extrapolation is by no means all of the possibilities but most of the common ones. If this helps you solve your proble please rate me accordingly. If it leads you to the correct and completed repair WOULDNT WE MAKE A TEAM?? And Good luck to you.

take the front and top cover off from the top look down and you can see the reservoir there is a black piece on top with two wires going in to it. turn it to remove it. You can test it by starting the ice machine and turning the float up side down. If water continues to flow you may have a bad diaphragm in your water valve. You can replace the diaphragm with a Phillips screw drive. Just be very careful when you lift the stem that goes in the solenoid make sure you pull the diaphragm with it as well. there is a spring it the stem that will fly out and it runs fast and hides well. look at the diaphragm's hole if it looks worn replace it before the float switch.

Technica go to this web site and look for manual on right hand side. Look for REV 4-15 and it says for "ALL H SERIES."

indicates too high of voltage. start there.

the number of beeps indicates the issue. count the beeps and repost.

always send model and serial numbers to get the best answers>

the wiring diagram shows that if the bin thermostat goes bad, it will not send power to the control board and noting will run. look for that first, could be a simple fix.

The ice thicknes control is located on the bottom left. it has a wire goingto it and ha a black rubber bottom. depending on the position it is secured.will determine the ice thickness. loosen the two screws and push it higher for smaller cubes and lower for bigger. If you are having problems with it.There is the possibility it is dirty and sticking.

You can download it @ www.hoshizaki.com

Too long to explain sequence here. but in the harvest mode the fan will not be running. go to hoshizaki.com you will find every thing you need very helpful site . and a clean machine is a happy machine. hope that helps Tom

A few simple things to check is the condenser for dust. Blow it out. If their is a water filter going into the unit change it. Get some ice machine cleaner and follow directions. Do these things before calling anyone out. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Would you be more specific, please? If you are considering replacing an evaporator plate on the machine, I'd advise against it unless you are in the trade,

that could be a number of problems..is it making any beeps or flashing lights on the circuit board? Have you tried to reset the circuit boards reset button with the machine on. ? If the machine seems totally dead then the bin thermostat is most likely the problem..

It sounds like you have an ice machine head on a fountain unit. If so there should be a circuit board where you can set the agitator setting to stir the ice periodically. it may not be set right or malfunctioning. Check to see if the bin or fountain manufacturer has a model and serial number and verify if you have a stir setting. .