Honda Garden - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

If you are asking about the oil for the gasoline engine then you can use a 30 weight engine oil like you would use in a car engine. Pressure washer pumps use a special non-detergent oil which is not the same as the engine uses.

their for safety but usually get mangled bent or left off after changing belt all you need is a bolt washer and nut to put back in place

google the model number and find a diagram

It is a centrifugal clutch engaged by pulling on a lever like a push bike brake handle. This takes up the slack and speeds up the engine. There is an inline cable adjuster with a locking nut again like a pushbike brake cable adjuster. The locking nut can come loose, it did on mine and the adjuster closes up causing the clutch to slip. Or worse not turn at all. Merely open and expand the adjuster by turning in an anti clockwise direction. Keep checking when well expanded by starting the engine and pulling the handle to see if the tines engage rinse and repeat until it engages appropriately. There is the possibility that the clutch has burnt out, and costs around £60 to replace.

Were I to pick from one of those three, I would pick the Landa. The most reliable pumps are Hotsy and since Karcher bought Landa and Hotsy, those three brands now have Hotsy pumps, though it doesn't say it on the machines.

Per owners manual... WATER PUMP OIL IMPORTANT: If oil is white or foaming, water is in the oil reservoir. Change oil.NOTE: Water in oil occurs as a result of spray or condensation. Milky oil is not indicative of a pump malfunction.

And check operation of auto-choke.

it needs to be taken apart to see whats broken inside

Turnoff the engine & detach the spark-plug wire.unscrew the belt cover bolts which are located on the right side of the unit
Depress the clutch lever to release tension on the pulleys
Place the new drive belt on the pulleys
Replace the belt cover and tighten the screws to secure it in place

Here is what's going on. I cleaned the wheel "dogs" or whatever you call them multiple times. This DID NOT fix the problem. Look at the cable that engages the forward movement (self-propel function). If there is any slack in the cable near the handle, then there is retained tension at the transaxle. Not enough to move the mower forward, but enough to keep the wheel from freely rotating backwards. I tipped my HRX217 on it's side and located where this cable engages the drive box. Lubricate the heck out of it and coerce it to move with needle nose pliers. After thorough cleaning and lubricating both ends of the cable, I am now able to move the mower backwards without lock-up. Hope this helps someone, as I found nowhere on the internet that this is what REALLY fixes this

check the gear shifer sounds like it is out of adjustment

In order to start an engine needs: - A good cranking speed or equivalent. Compression. Timing. The right amount of fuel being delivered into the combustion chamber. A good spark at the right time. As your engine doesn't start, clearly there is at least one of those items that is absent or unsatisfactory. There are a couple of things you didn't mention - you didn't say the spark plug was getting wet with fuel and you didn't say you had checked the spark...

Honda engines usually start easily. If the engine starts and runs smoothly the problem is probably with the recoil starter - some designs can accumulate wear and detritus that can cause considerable friction and sometimes need taking apart for examination, cleaning and lubricating. Any worn parts should be replaced and pay particular attention to the ferrule the rope passes through and if worn should be replaced. The recoil spring can become gummy also adding to the force needed for starting. Removing it very carefully (because they can easily fly and bite) and wash it in a little petrol or similar and dry it thoroughly. Lubricating the spring is a sort of damned if you do and damned if you don't situation - lubricating the spring reduces friction and helps stop corrosion but does trap more dust and grit. Light machine oil is good but a little dry colloidal graphite is better. I find a silicone spray is satisfactory, though repeat spraying is needed regularly including the rope...

Could be carburetor float is stuck or the inlet needle not functioning. Check that engine oil level is not above normal.

Remove air filter cover and see if fuel has saturated the filter. Another sign of a stuck carb float.

clean fuel jet in carburetor or buy a new one for 30.00

Test fuel pressure and volume.

If its not self propelled you must push it tynes only dig they dont pull the machine forward a self propelled means it has wheels on the back of unit that is chain or belt driven

Not worked on too many of these, however it would suggest there is either wear in the screw shaft, or the crown wheel, you should also check the bushes the screw shaft runs in, if there is excessive wear the gears will not mesh properly.

I don't think there are any belts on the FG201 it is a cable driven clutch. What has happened is either the clutch is worn or more likely the cable adjustment from the handle bar to the engine has got loose and the lever that look like a brake handle you pull to engage the engine needs adjusting. I would suggest you rotate the inline cable adjustment until it takes out the slack in the cable. it is very similar to a pushbike brake adjustment You can see the cable adjuster near the top of the right wellington boot

No fuel... carburetor float/needle valve is likely stuck shut. Clean carburetor bowl and use a fuel treatment such as Seafoam, per directions.