Hamilton Beach Toaster Ovens - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
How can I fix the fan in a Hamilton Beach 31197C
You really need to replace the fan. This motor uses cheap sleeve bearings and you will only cause a problem (maybe burn the house down) trying to spray lube from the interior which I assume is what you are doing. This is not an easy repair. I replaced mine which had an open winding. HB tried to make this unit so it could NOT be repaired, but of course it can be if you want to spend the time. The motor is part of a metal duct assy which also holds the rotisserie motor. It is RIVETED to the interior wall of the oven. The fan uses a DUAL shaft C-Frame shaded pole 120 VAC ~ 3000 RPM ~ .5 amp motor which is not very common, with 2 separate axial type metal blade sets. The oven door also develops a problem over time that keeps it from staying closed. The thermo on all these units is also inaccurate as the "sensor" is simply a metal plate screwed to the top right area of the oven interior. When I replaced my fan I also put in a new REAL oven thermo with a 12" sensing bulb which I mounted inside the oven as it should be. It took some searching to find these two parts. You can also repair the door mechanism at the same time and give yourself a couple more years until you have to do it again. I have all more and can post images if you want to tackle this. I did because the oven is large and the replacement model (31100 for $69 at Wal-Mart) has 1.5" less height and it uses the SAME parts with the same design flaw for the thermo. The retail cost on the parts for this job are ~$160, but I got mine for $15 total. I paid $48 for this oven years ago at Sams.
The door spring came off of hamilton beach 31100
The door of the Hamilton Beach Model 03008 or similar toaster oven does not stay closed when the door return spring or the hook it connects to breaks. The repair is very simple and takes just a few minutes!
The door spring is about 1 inch long and connects to a small clip on the inside of the left side panel of the unit. To see the small clip and the door spring, you simply remove the left side panel of the toaster oven which is done by removing just one screw.
The mounting clip on the side panel for the door return spring is located about half way up the side panel near its front edge.
The other end of the spring (its bottom end) connects to a metal hook. If the spring is not connected on its bottom end then the wire hook is broken. This is a simple repair that only requires a few inches of metal wire.
The other end of the metal hook (its bottom end) is connected to the bottom of the door hinge where it inserts into a small hole in the left side mounting hinge of the door.
When the steel hook breaks on either end then the spring cannot function, so the door does not stay closed.
To fix this problem, you simply get a piece of steel wire that is about 1/16 inch thick and a few inches long.
Bend the wire to make a hook at one end that the spring will connect to.
Then insert the other end of the wire into the small hole on the left side mounting hinge of the door. Then bend the wire on the inside of the hole to make a U or hook so the wire stays mounted in the hole of the door hinge.
Then adjust the position of the bend on the other end of the metal wire so the spring will have good tension when it is attached to the hook and to the clip on the side panel.
To do this you make the U shaped bend on this end of the wire to be about 1/2 inch from the end of the open end of the spring when the top end of the spring is attached to the mounting clip on the side panel.
To attach the spring to the wire hook, first remove the spring from the mounting clip. Then hook the spring onto the hook (bend) you made at the top end of the wire, then just stretch the spring to connect it to the mounting clip. The door will now stay closed.
Cannot control the temperature. Even
HB tried to make this unit so it could NOT be repaired, but of course it can be if you want to spend the time. The thermo on all these units is inaccurate anyway as the "sensor" is simply a metal plate screwed to the top right area of the oven interior. When I replaced my fan I also put in a new REAL oven thermo with a 12" sensing bulb which I mounted inside the oven as it should be. It took some searching to find these two parts. I have all the instructions and can post images if you want to tackle this. I did because the oven is large and the replacement model (31100 for $69 at Wal-Mart) has 1.5" less height and it uses the SAME parts with the same design flaw for the thermo. The retail cost on the parts for this job are ~$160, but I got mine for $15 total. I paid $48 for this oven years ago at Sams.
Is my Model 31197R repairable? The heating elements are not working. Fan is running.
Not worth repair unless you do it yourself. The replacement model oven for this is available at Wal-Mart for $69 and has the exact same design flaws as this model - inaccurate thermo, part on door mechanism that wears out, and short life motors. I still repaired mine as the oven is so large and the new ones have the same problems and 1.5" less height. Unless you are really into repairing electrical devices, I wouldn't attempt it as HB made this a tough repair. They will tell you the unit is not repairable and they built it with that in mind.
Power light out and doesn't heat
Ticking sound when unplugged? It sounds like a mechanical timer. Check the timer / control setting is actually on a cooking cycle. The unit may be set on delayed start? If there is no power to the unit, there may be a fuse inside it. You may have to take the back / side off to see.
Power light is out and the oven doesn't heat
He calls himself an electrician ?!? LOL!!!Not very good. He could have at least checked to make sure there was continuity in the unit or opened it up and made sure there were no loose connections. As for that sustaining ticking sound, it is because of a spring loaded mechanism.
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