GE Microwave Ovens - Page 9 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

If is new return it for one that works. You paid for one that works and you should get it. there is economical repair.

If nothing was spilled into the vents on the back side of the unit, then some internal electric parts is going bad. There are dangerous high voltage parts inside melting themselves to ***** and it will die soon, so throw it away before you have a fire.

I don't have the Schematic but did you replace the fuse once? You may need a Slow Blow Fuse. They are marked and just look different A slow blow fuse is different from a fast acting fuse in its capability to withstand transient pulse currents, i.e., it can withstand the surge current upon power-on/off, thus ensuring the equipment works normally. Therefore, slow blow fuses are often called time-delay fuses. Hope I helped If I did please "Like" Mike

(Fuse is a ceramic fast blow 20A Little Fuse 0314020 or Eton ABC-20) Melting I²t 631 If the Fuse blows when the door is opened. (not even energizing the microwave) The bottom micro switch (monitor micro switch) is normally closed, (open when the door is closed) however if it remains in the closed state when the door is open you will have a short circuit with the Primary Micro switch. The circuit diagram shows that one of the two switches must be open. I was able to test with an ohm meter. With a bad switch the reading was less than an ohm with the door open and 290 ohms with the door closed - Across the plug with a good fuse. With the new micro switch the resistance shouldn't change by much with the door open or closed.

There should be no carboard you can see or touch after installation of any microwave.

Hard to say, you could have a bad keypad, or you could have a shorted oven sensor. If your microwave is still heating on some settings and not others, I would look there, if your microwave is completely losing power when your starting it when you set it for 1 minute and hit start, then you probably have a bad TCO on your magnetron getting hot and losing connection. It could be that your Magnetron is getting too hot or just a bad connection on the TCO. If the magnet is cracked, I would replace the magnetron. I would recommend calling a professional if this is installed over your range, if you have ge service available I would go with them usually it takes two people to safely pull down a microwave. I would definately test it before reinstalling it again. 1800 GE CARES for gea service ask for the best deal if the magnetron needs replacement they are expensive.

Its not worth it to replace the door on that microwave, total cost of the door looks like 198.00 , maybe you could call GE parts and see if they have any in stock, WB56X10758 - However I highly doubt it is worth it. You are better off going to the website www.geappliances.com and finding a similar countertop microwave and just replace it with a new one. Perhaps if you call GE parts you could haggle them down on the cost of the door, however the labor of replacing it in that microwave isn't really worth it.

If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety and disassembly info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts (such as "button") by entering your base model number (without the suffix) here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383 If you find you need control panel repair, we do that nationwide for $39.95 in most cases. See: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

To mrotu47182 and MaryGur - you may very well have different problems!

TO mrotu47182:

Chances are the magnetron overheated, blowing the "magnetron thermal cutout".

If you or someone you know decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * *

To MaryGur:

Your problem may be a bad keypad, but the first thing to try is a "hard reset". Unplug it from the power line for a few minutes, plug it back in, set the clock, then try again.

If that doesn't fix it, you may have a bad keypad, assuming that your unit's display is on, but it won't respond to any key presses.

Is this your symptom?

If you or someone you know decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.

If you'd rather have us fix it for you, we do that for $39.95 plus parts and you can visit us via our link here on Fixya http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Oven Repair Tips - My Oven Keeps Beeping - It Is Fixed Appliance ...

https://itisfixed.com > Oven Repair Guides

The following oven repair troubleshooting guide will help you solve the ... When your oven keepsbeeping, it may indicate a problem. ... Whether you have a gas or electric oven, the basic functionality is the same. ... When the oven control system detects a problem, it will use an error code to ... GEOven Door Won't Unlock.

-You're already answer yourself. Good luck Mai

The turntable should have it's own fuse to protect the motor and best to check this seeing that all else turns on

If you enter a cook time and then press "Start," and the turntable turns, the timer counts down, and the inside light works, but it does not energize the high-voltage section, then chances are you have a door switch issue.

On this model, it would be a defective top door switch, or the primary interlock's (top door switch's) mount is loose, misaligned, or broken.

My help file on door switches is here:
http://www.microwavecontrol.com/doorsw.htm

At my Web site I have a video showing you how to remove a typical grill and controller assembly. Then you will see the switches. I also have the service manual at my site and I can give you the direct link if you email me.

- Ed
[email protected]
http://www.microwavecontrol.com

I repair these on a regular basis. See http://www.microwavecontrol.com

https://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-support-search-content?contentId=23974

Probably bulb burnt out.

Try GE directly 1-800-433-2682 or www.geappliances.com

Jim I suggest contacting GE directly with this issue 1-800-433-2682 or www.geappliances.com

Barbara I highly recommend contacting GE directly at 1-800-433-2682 or go to www.geappliances.com Marcus