GE Cooktops - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Hi there, attached is your cooktop user's manual and another link which I hope will help, especially from page 6 on http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=49-80162.pdf http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=31-10545-1.pdf

I agree completely with imaginus2000. GE Profile is junk. Came with the house we bought so had no choice there. As soon as it craps out it will be sent where it belongs. The scrap yard!

yes via an exhaust vent to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning.

usually the spark module is not put back together properly. 1 make sure the spark unit is clean 2 make sure the gas jet is pointing towards the sparker 3 make sure there is no aluminum foil or other metal near the sparker pulling the spark away from the gas

Not sure but newer stoves have 4 wires 2 110 and 1 ground and 1 neutral. Older stoves had 2 110 and only 1 ground. The oven sometimes used the ground a sa neutral for little motors, displays, etc. make sure that the third wire on your plug has a good ground and see if that helps

On any range I've seen with electronic ignitors, the valves have a position that closes a contact to turn on the ignitor and manually moving the dial to the 'Hi' setting opens the contact again and the ignitor ceases to spark.
You don't mean the ignitors run even when the burners are off, do you?
I'm surprised to read that this has been happening for 'years,' the transformer for the ignitors must be really tough to withstand that and it doesn't sound like an electrode or transformer problem but rather a contact not opening as it should or you not advancing the control past the ignite point.