Electrolux E66 code continuous problem?
Good morning, dissapointed81. I understand that you are experiencing some concerns with your dryer. Before contacting a service provider, I would suggest that you either unplug or turn the circuit breaker off to the unit for five to ten minutes. Let the dryer reset completely and try to use it as normal again. If this does not prove to be effective, we do recommend that a professional technician diagnose the thermal limiter and control board. The E66 error code typically indicates an error within the thermal limiter and interrupted communication to the control board. Though a full repair, and replacement parts, might not be needed we do recommend having a professional test the unit for safety reasons. -Hope this helps!
Meaning of "F1" in a Frigidaire Dehumidifier model FFAD5033R1?
For the slightly larger model, FFAD7033R1, F1 turned out to be the humidity sensor. This can be accessed by removing just the back panel.If you have a soldering iron for less than a nickel you can just replace the NTC Thermistor (small orange resistor 10k) on the small PCB. See attached image below.In the image below just to the right of the white sensor you can see I removed the bad thermistor..
Dehumidifier reads 30% no matter
Hello there,
Your guess is right as to what the cause of the problem is. The relative humidity (RH) sensor is faulty and need to be replaced. That is why it is stuck on 30%. When the RH is faulty, the compressor will not run. And the dehumidifier will not do anything.
Hope the moisture collected in the bucket is removed, becuse that also could be a cause of the problem. If the bucket that collects moisture is full, the sensor will send a message to the compressor and have it shut down automatically till the bucket is empty.
Once it is confirmed that the moisture collecting bucket is empty and it is still not reading anything other than 30%, then that confirms the problem to be from the RH sensor.
Hope this helped.
All the best.
Elect_Comp
Frigidaire Model FGUS2642LF1 leaking under the freezer. The appliance tech replaced the freezer door then stated the fridge needed to be defrosted for 24 hrs. My question is why?
All guess work but...
Scenario 1
Your problem was that it need a defrost timer or defrost heater. They are inexpensive parts. He sold you a door as a bonus (for him). Doors only need a new gasket if they don't seal properly. The evaporator at the rear of the freezer is a big lump of ice, and instead of using a heat gun for defrost it, he left you to do it.
Scenario 2
It only need the defrost drain cleaning of gunk and sold you a door as a bonus!
I had Scenario 1, but the local tech was honest. He said I have a defrost timer on the van. He fitted it and said "I can leave you to defrost the ice with a hair dryer and put the back panel back and shelf supports on the freezer, or I can defrost with a heat gun, but it will add 20 minutes to your bill. I go him to finish the job, the cost was minimal.
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