Ford Garden - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

For the spark plugs the simplest method is to remove and look at them. *NOTE* Only remove ONE plug wire at a time to make sure you don't alter the firing order. If you are not sure what you are doing with a carburettor get a professional to look at it. Are you sure you're turning the correct screw. There is usually 2 screws on a carburettor. One is for Idle speed and the other is for Fuel mixture.

See if this looks right.

Old school mechanical siphon fuel pump. There could be a leak anywhere from the pump back to the tank including the dip tube inside the tank or the pump itself. Check for fuel in the crankcase (oil). Fuel in oil is a failed pump diaphragm.

Probably a vaccum leak. ck this site for setting up the engine... https://fordification.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=74517

Question edited for a lot more clarity and tidy up the written English. It sounds like you have enough to get one running and then when parts become available to make 3 tractors and sell two working to recoup the costs.. Both the Gravely and the Fords are good workhorses. I am thinking if he was breaking front tie rods either the alignment was out or he was driving like a rally driver and too fast in the corners. Doesn't help if you are 300 pounds either.. Here are the differences between the two engines. Bigger bore and Stroke on the Magnum https://www.google.com/search?q=difference+between+a+Kohler+and+Kohler+Magnum The 16 and 18 are almost identical, the 20 has a longer stroke, larger diameter crankpin and piston pin. https://www.google.com/search?q=gravely+812

https://www.manualslib.com/products/Ford-5000-Super-Major-5900791.html

Not a common occurrence. https://www.google.com/search?q=Ford+4630+Tractor.+back+spindles+breaking ..

rebuild carb still not cleaned --not set correctly --improper install

Question edited for clarity. some free stuff, but a Service manual is only $20 https://www.google.com/search?q=Ford+YT-16H+Garden+Tractor+wiring+diagram ..

Broken axle is my guess. Raise the left wheel off the ground (review safety). With engine OFF, transmission in neutral, the wheel should rotate by hand. With trans in gear, the wheel should only move enough to take up the lash in the differential and transmission.

Alternatively you could raise both rear wheels. Engine off and trans in gear. Turning one wheel should effect the same rotation in the other wheel but in the opposite direction.

sadly we have no information about backhoes see a dealer

See the manual, free download

https://archive.org/details/tractors-19078764-Ford-Tractor-Models-2000-3000-4000-and-5000-Operators-Service-Manual/page/n15/mode/1up

Will the pto engauge with out the brushhog hooked up to the pto . Can you turn the drive shaft on the brushhog when it is unhooked from the tractor is any thing bound up around the shaft for blade .if the tractors pto will ingage with out the hog hooked up i would say u may have a bearing locking up or something bound up under neath the hog if not bad bearing mor than l?kely

It takes a surprising amount of liquid gasoline to fire an engine when fuel is not atomized by the carburetor.

You need at least a tablespoons and it needs to be down the throat of the carburetor or into the intake manifold.

Try the following; Remove the air filter assembly and filter. Spray a 2 second burst of starter fluid directly down the carburetor throat. Promptly start.

You say it is your tractor so you presumably wish to have the means to prove it? I don't know how the law where you are views official documents or the lack of but as a general rule around most of the planet ownership is covered by Common Law. A person can only own anything if he or she has Title to it. A person can have Title to something only if it has been transferred to him by another person and in order for the Title to something to be legally transferred the two people must make a contract. A contract is made when goods or services are offered or given in exchange for a consideration - in our modern times the consideration is usually money but could be almost anything; a pig, a flock of sheep, an old car... In the good old days a contract was often sealed with a handshake between the parties in front of witnesses but these days the issue of a bill of sale is more usual. Every time you "buy" something in a shop, strictly the shop isn't selling goods but inviting an offer of the marked price, the customer makes the required offer and the title to the goods is transferred by the contract between the shop and the customer. If either of the parties, or both of them, are making a contract with goods, services or money, that for the purpose of a contract is treated as goods or services, they don't have title to, stolen for instance, the contract is non-existent or is set aside; it cannot exist and any terms cannot be enforced. If you made a contract with the previous owner and he owned the title of the tractor by exchanging a consideration and you are able to prove it there is no doubt you own your tractor. Proof will be obtaining a copy of the bill of sale or signed statements from any witnesses to the contract.

Disconnect the starter side of the solenoid (big wire going to starter) and then you can hookup battery and troubleshoot the issue with a simple automotive lamp tester.

Lower inside of each brake drum housing is a slot for adjusting. Typical brake drum pad adjustment wheel is behind the slot.

Suggest you remove wheel and brake drum to inspect pads. Typically what happens is axle seal leaks trans oil and brakes slip.

http://www.tractordata.com/articles/technical/serialnumbers.html http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/004/0/3/4033-ford-tw-5.html TW-5 Serial Numbers: Location: Under forward right grill panel 1983: C694500 1984: C707400 1985: C732600 1986: A915854 1987: A917560 1988: A919438 1989: A922535 1990: A925099 Apparently 1986 or 1987 according to the link above.

1: Disconnect the battery 2: remove the seloniod (I just unbolted and unscrewed it from the starter and left the wires on it so I wasn't trying to guess what went where later when I get back to reassembling it.) 3: you have 2 bolts at the rear of the starter (the part of the starter that faces the front of the tractor.) You unscrew them to take the starter out. BE CAREFUL - if you pull the starter apart it will be a bear to get the brushes back in. I had the additional problem of the "bendix" (the part that engages the flywheel) jumping over the flywheel so I needed to remove the bolts on the canister to the left of the starter and move it slightly out of place in order to complete the project. You may not have to do that but I mention it as a aid because I don't know why you're changing out starters. In my case I found that although the starter was spinning the shaft was being chewed up because the engager (bendex - whatever its called) had jumped the flywheel and was resting against the flywheel. Really needed extra space to pull the starter because of that. Also saw somewhere that that bendix needs to be drawn in in order to reinsert the starter (something about having to spin it in??? I'll be looking for that shortly myself.