Fisher and Paykel Ovens - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

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Fisher & Pak\ykel element connection

white or red are phase, black or blue neutral
2/10/2018 3:00:18 AM • Fisher and... • Answered on Feb 10, 2018
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Ra610 thermostat

is easy the probe inside the oven is helt there by two clips,remove back off oven after turning off the power to it pull off knob undo nut with long nose pliers and remove change wires over one by one so they are connected right pull out old probe push new probe in though the back to the inside of oven and clip into place
2/5/2018 1:25:31 AM • Fisher and... • Answered on Feb 05, 2018
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Oven turn off auto

digital or analogue
2/5/2018 1:21:56 AM • Fisher and... • Answered on Feb 05, 2018
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Top element not working

either a wire of the element or a faulty element
2/5/2018 1:21:27 AM • Fisher and... • Answered on Feb 05, 2018
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Oven fan not working

usually a faulty fan check fan with multimeter if no multi meter connect directl with a live wire frm somewhere else of the stovewiring to see if it will run
2/5/2018 1:20:46 AM • Fisher and... • Answered on Feb 05, 2018
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I have an OR90 Dual fuel range oven. My problem is that the main oven the bottom does not heat up? The top is working fine

check both oven elements are working if ok check thermostat probe inside oven isnot close to or touching any of the elements if all os ok then replace thermostat
2/5/2018 1:18:36 AM • Fisher and... • Answered on Feb 05, 2018
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Why doesn't soft work?

most likely the computer board
2/5/2018 1:02:36 AM • Fisher and... • Answered on Feb 05, 2018
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How do you stop the ticking on a fisher and paykel classic oven

theticking is common all all their analogue clocks so turn it off at the wall switch when not in use
2/5/2018 12:59:17 AM • Fisher and... • Answered on Feb 05, 2018
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Power off after earthquake. Have a Fisher and Paykel freestanding Multifunction oven. How do I get rid of flashing Auto light and st clock

is its led puash the two left hand buttons and the far right all at the same time
2/5/2018 12:57:58 AM • Fisher and... • Answered on Feb 05, 2018
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Water has spilled from the bench top and got into

Oven not waterproof nor is it required to be even if under worktop. I'd check the PCB for water damage.
12/23/2017 8:10:55 AM • Fisher and... • Answered on Dec 23, 2017
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Bake function takes a long time for temp to increase and keeps dropping down

Possibly bake element is bad or control is bad.
12/23/2017 8:08:50 AM • Fisher and... • Answered on Dec 23, 2017
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Fisher and Paykel Paprika Oven Top Elements Full hot!!

No controller. The switch for each element (called a simmerstat) is what controls the heat. It is a common fault and will be fixed if you instal new simmerstat for each faulty element.
2/8/2017 11:02:22 AM • Fisher and... • Answered on Feb 08, 2017
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My Corriander model oven - stovetop works well, but the oven is completely "dead".

THINGS TO CHECK: the broil element is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage. If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms The bake element is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off. Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms The oven safety valve (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter. I offer free advice bcuz God is so good! On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. The infinite switch on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch. 1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful. 2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires. 3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective. 4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2". 5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced. 6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance. 7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed. If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. ) Most modern ovens use an electronic control board to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced. : rememberI offer free advice bcuz God is so good!
12/17/2016 1:53:45 AM • Fisher and... • Answered on Dec 17, 2016
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