Ertl Toys - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

on the bottom of the fluid tank. Some have a protection plate under tank and in that case there will be a hole cut to allow access to the plug

Disconnect linkage. Remove differiental lock housing located on right side of transaxle. Ck for repair issuses. Ck sliding gear, spring engagement, etc

my 580b case didnt have a block heater. i purchase a new one from my local dealer and the instruction tell me to mount it in the block on the drivers side. in behind the fuel filters are 2 plugs...or in my case 2 nipples because mine had a cab heater hooked up..it says to use the rear most port

sorry no idea here wouldnt even know one if it jumped up and bit me

Hi,
I have been on so many tractors and not on one of these in many years... but doesn't this one shut off by pulling a knob out to shut the fuel off at the injector pump??

It seems to me that the fuel shut off cable can get corroded from rain and moisture and become hard to pull so the engine is hard to shut down. You can take the cable loose and get WD-40 worked into it by holding one end high and running it down the wire into the cable.. then when you get it working, run a light oil into the cable to keep it lubed up...

I don't think this tractor has an electric solenoid valve... but if it does then that valve is going bad and not shutting the fuel off...they also can stick. They can be taken apart and cleaned also...

heatman101

You are having the typical shuttle failure. There is a bellville type spring that returns the clutches when pressure is taken from the clutch pack. That spring will fail with time, it is nothing you did.

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Firing Order - 18436572
http://enginefacts.com/chrysler383.php

Was that the power shuttle that you broke down? If so, is it a Borg Warner velvet shuttle. I have a 580K and mine started slipping like that in forward and finally lost it completely. It had a strong reverse though.

I had to pull the power shuttle and replace the forward clutch disks. The stuff in the oil is probably the fibers from the friction disks. There are seven forwards disks and what happens in these shuttles is the Belville plate or washer breaks under stress and then wreaks havoc on the clutch disks.

What you are describing is exactly the way mine did. I put new forward dicks in and everything was fine then.
You said the disks looked new when you inspected them. You will see the reverse disks first and then as you go deeper into the shuttle you come to the forward disks. You may have been looking at the reverse plates.

My reverse plates also looked good but when I got to the forward plates they were burnt, scarred and very thin. Not much left of them. Check the forward disks, I bet that is where you will find your problem.

There are some pressure stall tests you can run to determine exactly what is not working properly.
Hope this helps and good luck.
Tim

What is the last thing that happened before you noticed there was a problem?

Pregunta , tienes, el manual de la case 580 ck, donde se muestra el circuito hidrailico de la transmision, si es asi, embiame una foto del circuito o el manual y te puedo apoyar.

It should fit

It could be just that its just cold and need to warm up or changing the oil,filter , air filter and fuel filter.

Check all your fuses

Use hy-trans from your local case dealer

take a garden hose or somthing with high water pressure and spray out all of radiators in the front of machine. This will clean out all the dust build up between all the rads and will cause your fan to cool the ac fluid as well as the others

If all the engine oil passages are unostructed and clean, you will have to try a lower volume oil pump. Some high performance engines are painted internally with special paint to reduce friction and smooth the down the oil flow down back to the pan.

Now that you smoked the transmission, it does not matter what caused it. You now have to rebuilt the transmission, and it will cost to replace and clean parts contaminated by letting it slip so much.
Don't know if the transmission problem was caused by the brake seal installation or not, but probably not. There was probably simply a transmission leak as well, and if you had kept the fluid up, it may have been able to function for a long time.

But after a transmission starts to slip, do NOT use it. At all.
There is no such thing as a little slip.
Now that it has been cooked, you would be better off with a rebuilt exchange instead of trying to rebuild what is left of the old one.

backhoe will not move forward

You need to go to your nearest New Holland dealer and buy a Baler Knotter Service Manual.

I suggest this because it sounds to me that you have absolutely no clue what you are talking about, just by the way you've presented your question.

Additionally, there are lots of help forums on here - Google the words "how to time new holland baler" - and you will find a plethroa of generic information for different NH balers on timing procedures.

HOWEVER... If you are not familiar with this kind of service work... Please... go buy yourself a MANUAL! They are NOT that expensive, and they are worth their weight (and then some) in gold!

You can also buy manuals on-line. I bought mine from a seller on eBay.
Here's a link to a current auction, good for the next 29 days or so: http://www.heavyequipmentshop.info/view.php?item=NewHollandKnotterServiceTipsBalerManualLot&num=370404567925
You can purchase the pair of manuals for like $32.00 US dollars, including the shipping!

Don't get screwed by being a cheap skate! Hay is extremely weather dependent, and there's no time for down time!

Good luck & god bless...
~ AJ