Dometic Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

The fuse for the DC operation on a Dometic RM 2553 fridge is typically located on the control board, which is accessed by removing the back panel or cover of the refrigerator.

Michael, it is better to make your own post rather than resurrecting a 10 year old post! https://www.google.com/search?q=Dometic+NDR1292+parts ..

I was replacing a DUO-Therm 3105058 Rev A. very old Thermostat in a Coachman RV with 3106995.032 from Amazon. After looking all the information on the directions it was clear I would have to play a hit or miss on some of the wiring. Instead of using the same coding, such as RC, RH, G, Yellow and such. they used the function and I had to guess at some.Here is the wiring I found worked:There are 6 wires. One set of two wires (white On the W & red on the RH) and the set of 4 (yellow On the Y, green on the G, red on the RC and blue on the H). So to keep it simple the red on the RH went to the +7.5. The White on the W went to the FUR. HS/HP not used. the Yellow from the Y went on the cool. The green on the G went to the fan. The red on RC went to GND. and the Blue on H went to Hi fan.So red (RH) of the 2 wire goes to +7.5White (W) of the 2 wire goes to FUR.Yellow (Y) to coolGreen (G) to fanOrange or red from the RC lug goes to GNDBlue (H) goes to Hi Fan

check amp draw either bad compressor or fan motor

I suggest verifying the refrigerator's thermostat configuration. it might result in the unit shutting down prematurely If it's set too low, Adjust the thermostat to the suitable setting. Moreover, insufficient gas supply can cause the flame to go out. Please examine the gas line for any obstructions and ensure the gas tank isn't empty

The short answer is yes, but the key is to make certain not to plug in and start the fridge for at least 24 hours once it is upright and in the final location.

The reasons manufacturers caution against transporting/moving a fridge on it's side also has to do with the possibility of damaging the doors and hinge plates. The big reason is because people tend to want to start filling up their new fridge with food right away, so they plug it in once it's in their house.

If a fridge has been shipped on its' side, the compressor oil tends to wick/flow into the piping and can cause a failure, if not allowed to drain back into the compressor when the fridge is placed back upright.

Although not the best way to transport, you can do it if you allow time for things to settle back before powering it up.

It sounds like you have a bad connection on the gas burning side.

Question edited for full 'make model (what it is)'. Question moved to Dometic category. It sounds like the thermostat has failed. Here is your service manual. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/461518/Dometic-Rm2310.html ..

it draws locked rotor amps at power application. capacitors boost it quicker then you read it if all ok then runs at full load amps.

Same problem...then discovered my thermostat was set to Celsius instead of Ferinheight... pressed toe temp up and temp down buttons to change..fixed...

sounds like duct damage or restriction in duct work.

Question moved to an Awning category. I didn't know that Fixya made Awnings?? The is help in the link. https://www.google.com/search?q=rollup+aluminum+awning+spring+replacement ..

Sounds like the wires are for fan and are supposed to go to a capactor I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/vincent_f7b7c5f4dedd2565

Recently purchased a second hand Waeco chest fridge/freezer CF50 as a second/backup fridge on the boat. All was working fine until the fridge refused to start and showed "Err2". According to the user manual (page 23) "Err2" (or any other error message e.g.: "Err1" means that "The device has switched off due to an internal fault." Suggested remedy "This can only be repaired by an authorised repair centre." To be honest that's about as useful as a bicycle to a fish, in the middle of nowhere. So, with the beer getting warmer, the circumstances required a set of screwdrivers, a multimeter and band-aids. I have heard that the thermistor on older units can often be the point of failure. In this case, it also turns out to be the situation. The Thermistor is connected to the upper circuit board located under the buttons to operate the fridge. Not hard to access, 2 Philips heads under the fridge lid, either side of the internal light, then 3 Phillips heads to remove the circuit board from the buttons. The thermistor (only 2 wires) is connected to the circuit board by a small white connected (in my case) to the right of the multi-wire connector. I disconnect the thermistor from the board, hoping an open circuit would at least get the fridge to start without the thermistor (ie 100% resistance), but no. What it did was change the error code from "Err2" to "Err1" (might be useful for anyone tracking down an Err1 problem). So, take the reverse, I shorted the 2 thermistor wires at the circuit board (i.e. no resistance) to see if that would get the fridge to start, but also no, just "Err2" message. Finally, I connected a 10k ohm carbon resistor (cost about $0.85 for a pack of 10) to the thermistor wires and the error code was removed and the fridge started working. The display read 22c, being the perceived temperature at that resistance. Turns out the lower the resistance the higher the perceived temperature. This was not a final solution, because the fridge would run all the time freezing everything. But, by turning the fridge on manually, a couple of hours at a time got us out of a warm beer situation. Hope this helps someone else.

possible heating element bad

Electrical short circuit, you just have to find it. Look for pinched, trapped or abraded wires. In an RV, vibration from driving is the issue.

I have been trying to answer this for over an hour. I moved to a different browser. did you know this model was the subject of a recall?

Refrigerator Recall ' Dometic.com

https://www.dometic.com > en-us > outdoor > refrigerat... Please note the following combination of refrigerator model and serial numbers are affected: · Model numbers: NDR1062, RM2652, RM2662, RM2663, RM2852, RM2862, ... I have searched extensively for spare but they are all marked out of stock or obsolete. You best bet is to call in a gas refrigeration engineer and see if there is a similar part that can be used. It needs to be something automatic.

try running with thermistor unplugged from board if it gets cold overnite replace if not possible bad cooling unit

check compressor relay possible stuck on