it should lift out once you it tilted. page 5 this not your exact model, but they are mounted the same way
https://documents.designerappliances.com/Installation-Instructions-JXA019K.pdf
Question edited for clarity and add maker.
Panasonic and Sharp are the brand leaders in microwave ovens. The build quality in the old ones is outstanding. I owned a large one in a commercial pub kitchen reheating hundreds of thousands of meal items for 18 years and it never went wrong once!
This is the manual for the 883 model as a PDF file
https://www.mediafire.com/file/eulp6ogpd6nc3d8
There is nothing for your model, not even on the Panasonic website.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Turbo+bake+NN-A880WBBPQ+manual
..
Question edited for clarity.
Question moved from Computers to Microwave Ovens.
I have used Litton Microwaves as a chef and caterer. Great machine, alongside Panasonic and Sharp.
Amazonhttps://www.amazon.com > MEAL-ONE-MICROWA...
USED.... Hardcover(NO DUST JACKET), good condition, outside cover shows age related minimum too tolerable signs of use,, Main Text and Pages of Main Text in ...
US$2.15
If your Emerson microwave is turning on and counting down but not actually cooking or heating the food, there could be a few potential causes for this issue. Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot the problem:
Check Power Levels: Make sure the microwave's power level is set to the desired level for cooking. Some microwaves have adjustable power settings, and if it's set too low, it may appear that the microwave is running but not cooking properly.
Door Interlock Switches: Microwaves are equipped with safety interlock switches that prevent the microwave from operating when the door is open. If any of these switches are malfunctioning or not engaging properly, it could prevent the microwave from cooking. Ensure that the door is fully closed and the switches are working as intended.
Turntable and Support: If your microwave has a turntable, make sure it's properly seated on its support and able to rotate freely. If the turntable is not turning, it could result in uneven cooking or no cooking at all.
Magnetron Malfunction: The magnetron is the component responsible for generating microwave energy for cooking. If the magnetron is faulty or not functioning properly, the microwave may appear to operate but won't actually heat the food. A malfunctioning magnetron usually requires professional repair or replacement.
High Voltage Diode or Capacitor: The high voltage diode and capacitor work together to convert the high voltage output from the transformer into microwave energy. If either of these components is defective, it can prevent the microwave from cooking. Again, professional repair may be necessary.
Control Board or Circuitry Issues: A malfunctioning control board or other electronic components could also lead to a situation where the microwave appears to operate normally but doesn't actually cook. If you suspect control board issues, it's best to contact a professional technician.
User Manual: Double-check the user manual for any specific instructions or troubleshooting steps related to cooking issues. The manual may provide guidance on common problems and their solutions.
If you've checked these common issues and the microwave still isn't cooking, it's advisable to stop using it and contact Emerson customer support or a professional appliance technician for further diagnosis and repair. Microwaves contain high-voltage components that can be dangerous to work with, so it's important to prioritize safety and seek professional assistance if needed.
The transformer that supplies the magnatron is fed from the same part of the machine that feeds the turntable motor.
The turntable motor is fed through one of the door safety switches.
Check the door switches and feed fuse. If a diode pack has failed, that will blow the fuse or even damage the switch as well.
Replace the door switches: If cleaning the door sensors doesn't work, it's possible that one or more of the door switches are faulty and need to be replaced. You can follow this video tutorial to replace the door switches yourself3.
If none of these steps work, it's best to contact a professional or the manufacturer's service center for further assistance.
I hope this helps!
If your Bosch dishwasher's soap dispenser is not opening or draining properly, here are a few troubleshooting steps you can take:
Clean the Dispenser Area: Start by inspecting the soap dispenser area for any debris, soap residue, or obstructions. Clean the dispenser thoroughly using a damp cloth and remove any buildup that may be preventing it from opening or closing properly.
Check for Mechanical Issues: Examine the dispenser latch and mechanism for any signs of damage or wear. Ensure that the latch is engaging properly and that there are no loose or broken parts. If any components are damaged, they may need to be replaced.
Test the Dispenser Solenoid: The soap dispenser may be controlled by a solenoid that releases it at the appropriate time during the wash cycle. Check if the solenoid is functioning correctly by performing a continuity test using a multimeter. If the solenoid is defective, it may need to be replaced.
Verify Proper Detergent Usage: Ensure that you are using the correct type and amount of dishwasher detergent recommended for your Bosch dishwasher. Using the wrong detergent or excessive amounts can cause issues with dispenser operation. Consult your dishwasher's user manual for specific detergent recommendations.
Check the Drainage System: A clogged drainage system can prevent the soap dispenser from draining properly. Inspect the drain hose, drain pump, and any filters for blockages. Clear any debris or obstructions you find, and ensure that the drain hose is not kinked or bent.
Reset the Dishwasher: Try resetting your Bosch dishwasher by turning it off at the power source or unplugging it for a few minutes. This can sometimes resolve temporary issues and restore proper operation.
If the above steps do not resolve the issue, it may be necessary to consult the Bosch dishwasher's user manual for model-specific troubleshooting steps or contact Bosch customer support for further assistance. They can provide you with specific guidance tailored to your dishwasher model and help you diagnose and resolve the problem.
I hope you didn't run the microwave with nothing in the cavity, if you did, it will damage the magnetron.
The turntable dishes do get hot depending on the quality of the glass used to make it. Heat is caused by impurities in the glass.
If you run it with no food in the oven, the glass will try to absorb the energy with atastrophic results usually.
You need to remove it and take it in.
Or
If you can get behind the keypad, you can clean it with electrical contact cleaner.
Or depending on age, you replace the keypad or buy a new one. They are a good make.
Symptoms of a Bad Door Switch
If you are experiencing any of the below symptoms, there is a good chance you have a bad microwave door switch:
Your microwave doesn't start up when you close the door and press the start button
Your microwave's interior light, turntable, or fan turns on automatically when you open the door without you hitting the start button
Your microwave pauses randomly in the middle of cooking as if you had opened the door when the door is still tightly shut
To be completely safe, you should discharge the capacitor before you go poking around inside your microwave.
The capacitor is usually located at the bottom right corner of the microwave.
. How to Test For a Faulty Microwave Door Switch
The first thing you should do to test the micro switches is by opening and closing the door. You will want to first rule out the possibility the latch or hook is broken and not activating the switch.
Watch to make sure the latch activates the plunger on the top of each switch as you open and close the door. When the door opens and closes, the plunger should depress and pop back up.
For my microwave, I noticed the plunger on one of the switches stayed down when the door was opened and closed. This was the bad switch.
If all the door switches and latches appear to be working correctly visually, the next step is to test that they are working correctly internally.
You will see two or three terminals on the switch. The terminal on the bottom of the switch will usually be the common (COM) and the ones on the side will be a normally closed (NC) or a normally open (NO) terminal.
If you don't know which terminal is which, there will be a diagram on one side of the switch. Look for which marking the terminal is located next to.
Remove the wires connected to the terminals.
Using a multimeter set for continuity, touch one probe to the COM terminal.
Now if you touch the other probe to the NO terminal, it should read no continuity because that circuit is normally open. Now press down on the plunger. You might sometimes hear a 'click' and your multimeter should report there is continuity.
Testing the NC terminal is similar to testing the NO terminal. Keep one probe on the COM terminal and touch the other to the NC terminal. You should have continuity when the plunger is up because the circuit is normally closed. When you depress the plunger, the circuit should open and your multimeter will say there is no continuity.
Replacing the Faulty Micro Switch
Once you have found the bad switch, remove it from the door panel. The switches will usually be mounted on pins through the holes at the corner of the switch with brackets holding it in place.
Should you have trouble getting access to or removing the switches, they are usually all mounted on a plastic frame with screws securing it to the microwave. Remove the screws and you should be able to pull out the frame with all the switches at once.
Once you get the microwave door switch out, you could open it up and try to fix it if you are super cheap, but it will likely fail again soon after. A better long-term solution is to replace it since they are so inexpensive.
These switches are usually rated up to 100,000 operations electrically and 10,000,000 operations mechanically.
To find a replacement switch, look on your old switch for the voltage rating and the type of switch you need. It might have one terminal that is normally open (NO) or normally closed (NC). It could also have both NO and NC terminals, known as a Single Pole Double Throw or SPDT switch. My microwave had two NO switches and one NC switch.
My switch was rated for 15A - 1/2HP - 125/250 VAC, 0.6A 125 VDC or 0.3A 250 VDC.
You can order a normally open micro switch or a normally closed micro switch on Amazon for about $5 with the above rating. You can also order a SPDT micro switch with both the NO and NC terminals and only use one of the two terminals.lastly check for bad control board
The black marks are burnt debris caused by splashing inside the oven. (Cling film usually stops this).
The waveguide cover, refered to as mica, has nothing to do with the actions of the magnetron, it is there to stop particles of food from entering the waveguide.
