Grinders - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Sears Craftsman is usually easy as Sears Parts Direct has diagrams and part numbers. However your switch number 31919063033 is no longer available. I would suggest checking out online places like Digikey or Newark for a switch that will work for you. As long as the Voltage, amperage and number of poles and will fit in the space provided you should be OK. Link to Sears Parts Direct. Searching Model For Search Your Way 31919063 2 Link to Newark Switches Relays 60 674 Products Found Link to Digikey Electronic Components

Unplug it first, if you like your skin. Use a wrench on the nut, and hang onto the wheel with one bare hand while you turn the nut in the same direction as the wheel normally spins. If you have a lot of difficulty doing that, jam the wheel with a piece of wood.

The right side should have right-hand threads, the left side should have left-hand threads.

DO NOT leave it that way - that fuse is for YOUR protection, and the protection of your family and neighbors. That humming is probably an byproduct of the speed control, not too much to worry about. The vibration should go away almost entirely when you reset the wheels to run true and dress them to balance. The capacitor is your starting capacitor - its voltage rating is completely unimportant - that's a max voltage rating, and they only wanted to stock one capacitor, not have one for the 120V versions and a second one for the 240V versions. Did you by chance start working on this grinder while it was still under warranty? If the wheels turn freely when the power's off, and if the grinder doesn't get awfully warm when it's in use, then I'd think that the problem is within the speed control board.

You'll probably have to make them - they're nearly impossible to get in the USA, too... meaning they're nearly impossible to get ANYWHERE.

It's probably best to disassemble it and clean it up inside, especially if it's never been cleaned inside before.

Feel the power cord when that happens. If the power cord doesn't get pretty warm, and the grinder itself doesn't get awfully hot, then I'd suspect the breaker - they get old and trip too easily.

The centrifugal switch inside has gotten dirty, or else the start capacitor is disconnected or faulty. It's about time to open that grinder up and examine the centrifugal switch. If it's working OK, then examine the capacitor connections. If they look OK, replace the capacitor.

Once you get them snugged a little, you will probably have to hang onto one wheel while you tighten a nut. It's easier if you tighten down one wheel with the other wheel dismounted so you can really grab the arbor shaft. Do NOT overtighten either wheel - it doesn't need it, and overtightening increases the risk of a catastrophic wheel explosion.

It doesn't need to be Delta, all it needs is to be 8" diameter, same width (1" or 3/4" or 1/2" or whatever), and have an arbor hole (or plastic adapter) the right size - they're all pretty standard. You can buy wheels like that locally at your hardware store, or online at Amazon or eBay or Sears or any number of other places. They're nearly as common as dirt, and really inexpensive.

That's pretty straightforward - the black wire from the power cord goes to one (either) side of the switch, and the black wire headed into the motor goes to the other side of the switch.

Check again - are there any more screws under a label? If it's a plastic-body angle grinder, it may also have little snap hooks all the way around the edge.

I'll bet the brushes wore out.

This is an electric die grinder? Do a quick Google search for "Router speed control". That'll work fine for any electric die grinder.

The metabo die grinder shouldn't have any clutch.

They all make a funny growling noise while they're running. It's just a rough fit in the gearing.

You don't have enough air pressure. Let the compressor build up more air pressure, and check to see if you have an inline pressure regulator (like you might have for a paint shop). If you can, bypass the pressure regulator to use full compressor pressure.