Braun Kitchen Appliances - Others - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Not worth repairing. A new one would be cheaper!

It has died Stephen! Get a new one - it will be cheaper than fixing this.

9 is the high setting.

same problem ,please help

Defrosting bread

Be sure to unplug toaster first. While inverting your toaster, depress the toaster lever(s) and shake toaster to clear all bread crumbs. It can take up to several minutes of shaking to clear them completely, however, the key is to depress the toaster levers down at the same time. Also, remember to remove bread crumb trays and empty regularly, as the trays are too shallow and allow crumbs to build up quickly, thereby blocking the "locking mechanism" of the lever(s).

If after cleaning your toaster out thoroughly, the levers still won't remain depressed, try various outlets throughout your kitchen. Oftentimes, when one GFI (Ground Fault Indicator) trips, several outlets along the same circuit will also trip.

Also, there is a website called Manuals.com, which has a very good database of many manuals for various manufacturers and models of toasters, should all of the above efforts fail.

I did all of the above and fixed my toaster within five minutes. :- )

Good luck to you.

Yvonne

Hi, follow the instruction below to clean it up...

Unplug the tea kettle from the wall outlet, and detach the plug from the kettle.

Pour 1/4 cup white vinegar into the kettle, and fill the kettle halfway with hot water.

Agitate the kettle so the vinegar mixture hits the sides of the kettle walls, and let the water sit for 20 minutes.

Discard the vinegar water, and scrub the interior of the kettle gently with a nylon sponge.

Rinse the kettle with hot water, and repeat as needed until all buildup is removed. Let the kettle air-dry before inserting the cord back into the kettle.

I just took ours apart for the same reason. In our case, it turns out that one of the two water indicators was cracked (at the top), causing the leak. The cracks were invisible without taking it apart. There's a bigger leak near the bottom of the same piece, where a piece of the plastic is missing:On the upside, the wk600 is really well designed - easy to take apart for repair. But I can't find replacement parts anywhere...

It's possible it can be fixed. Ours also no longer clicked. I took it apart and found that the flat plastic piece in the handle that activates the circuitry in the base had broken away from the rocker piece in the base. Fortunately the same flat plastic piece conveniently had a couple of holes in it in a helpful location. I looped some wire through the holes and also around the bottom rocker piece to hold the two pieces together.
I reassembled the kettle and tried it out and it now works fine! Problem fixed.
To disassemble, take the four screws out of the bottom of the kettle. (You'll need the appropriate star bits to do so.) Put those screws in a safe location... Lift off the bottom plate.
Now, the plastic for the handle is held in place by the typical notched clasps used by so many plastic appliances. You unsnap the clasps by CAREFULLY inserting a straight blade screw driver between the handle plastic and the kettle and GENTLY prying the handle plastic away from the kettle. You'll hear the internal clasps "popping" as they snap loose. You CANNOT take the handle all the way off this way. You just loosen it. Now, the top of the handle is a separate piece. Do the same for this. The top will pop completely off.
Next, GENTLY remove the lid. You can slide it a bit up and away. It's a tight fit, so you need to use a little force, but not too much.
Once you've done this, there are two metal pins that hold the main part of the handle to the kettle. They have a little ridge around the top that you can use to pry them out with your fingernail. Once those pins are removed, the handle will simply come off.
BE CAREFUL! The various parts in the handle are now loose! If you aren't careful they'll fall off and you'll have to figure out how to reassemble them.
Now, you'll notice the long flat plastic piece running down the side of the kettle. That piece was hidden behind the handle. It is SUPPOSED to be fastened to a rocker plate at the bottom. If you look at the end of the flat piece at the bottom you will likely see what I did. It had just disconnected from the rocker plate. Take some wire and wire the two pieces together using the little hole-like slots at the end of the flat piece. Just loop the wire through the hole and down around the rocker plate piece exposed inside where the handle is.
While applying this wire, it will be helpful to put a little masking tape across the various handle pieces to keep them from falling off. This is important because you'll probably be wiring the pieces together with the kettle on its side like I did, and the parts will fall off if you aren't careful. When you are done wiring things together you just remove the tape.
Once you've done this, reassemble the kettle in the reverse order you disassembled it.
You'll notice that once you've wired together the two separated pieces, pressing the switch on the top pulls up on the flat plastic piece which pulls the rocker plate which closes the circuit in the base.

I was successful at fixing my Krups Electric Kettle for $4. In my case the water was leaking from bottom somewhere close to the heating area. I think that a small hole was created in the seal around the heating area in the bottom of the inside of the kettle. One can try to find the general location of the leak by putting a small amount of water in the kettle, place the kettle in a larger pan, and tilt the kettle so that the water is slightly higher than the heating area in one area only noting the position where the water level is above the heating area. Leave it for a while and check for leakage. If there is none, rotate the kettle a few degrees so that you have a new high point and look again for leakage from the new area until you find the area where it is leaking. Alternatively you may wish to put a sealant around the entire area, 360 degrees, around the top of the heating area. You mayl have to remove the strainer first to get your hand in the kettle to apply the sealant.

I went to my local hardware store and looked for sealants that were:
1. Potable (ie safe since you will be using the water for coffee, tea, and other applications that you ingest).
2. That will withstand heat up to at least 250 degrees Fahrenheit. Remember that water boils at 212 degrees.
I found epoxies that required mixing two compounds but decided that this would be difficult to deal with and apply. In the end I bought "PC Plumbing Epoxy Putty" from PC-Products. This met both requirements and was easy yo use. You take the putty and roll it between your finger just like you did in kindergarten with the clay and make a thin string that you could position in the crevice around the top of the heating area. You may either cover the area where you found the leak or the entire 360 degrees. You will note a somewhat foul smell of the putty. The manufacturers says that it will cure in 3 hours. I found that the smell went away when it completely dried and hardened after 3 weeks!.
I will assume that the same solution is applicable to leaks in other areas of the kettle. I have also found that there are equivalent electric kettles much cheaper than Krups. I would certainly check the construction to see if there is one with less of a chance to develop a leak.
But the bottom line is that it cost me $4. I just finished testing the Electric Kettle and it is fine, not leaking, and the instant coffee did not have any bad smell.

Meir Elazar

you havent specified where the switch becomes loose and inoperable .......it is in the plug point or the base of the unit
if it is on the mains then change the point
it it is on the base of the unit ...
then give some padding to the base where the plug is connected then
it will start working////////
i hope this suggestion will solve your problem

This can be that you need a goo cleaning of the toaster. It is possible that Bread crumps and toasted crumps has hardened and got deposited on the tracks of the hinges and carriage.
So you will need to remove the unit and see the tracks of the carriage to which it moves.
Clean the portions with some edible oil and dry wipe them off.
Make sure in this process that the carriage is manually moved for free movement.

Replace the switch, its spring is broken

No, no repair depot available for this product

Does the unit shut off only before the water boils, or does it shut off and on periodically? I just fixed my friend's WK200 Braun kettle. His would shut off and on, eventually coming to a boil. During normal operation, when you press the switch, it is connected to a rod which at its other end (ie the bottom of the kettle) is able to close the circuit allowing the current to pass through the heating element. In my friend's case, the contact had become weak - I just had to slightly bend the metal pole a little bit to provide a better contact when the switch was depressed. To repair the unit, I only needed a couple of torx screwdrivers and a voltmeter to measure continuity. (note, if you bend the metal pole too much, then the circuit will always be closed even when the switch is OFF - make sure you test for an open circuit when the switch is OFF)

This is the solution for the BLACK Braun electic water heater, so you must adjust the color to fit if yours is another color.
First take the 3 pieces that go inside the top. Two look like a "Z", and the other is the square, white doo-dad. Take the square piece and slip it into the slot with lid open. YOU CANT PUT IT IN FLAT UNLESS THE LID IS OPEN! Make sure that you can put it in FLAT. Once it is in flat, take it back out. Now you have the 2 "Z" pieces. Fiddle around with these pieces until you learn how to put them in together so they will fit together. This may take several tries. There is a piece that acts like a pivot. Now take all 3 pieces out. The trick is not to put the 2 "Z" pieces in together. You have to figure out what Z-piece to put in first. Then put the rectangular white piece in, and then the other Z-piece. This all must be done with the lid OPEN, otherwise the rectangular piece will not lie flat. Make sure the little spring inside this rectangular piece it put in properly - it should be against the little black doo-dad on the lid. If everything is sitting happily together, you should be able to snap the other black part onto the lid, and close it successfully.

I have the same problem. It started about a week ago and I have to keep flicking the on switch to get it finally working. I think there's a problem with the contact with the base. Not sure if it's worth getting a replacement part for it. It worked well for 4+ yrs!

There are comercial products that will do this look for it in houseware stores, maybe some big Ace Hardware stores, maybe even at your chain grocery stores.

HI,

OK, inside the unit there are three items, the heating element, thermostat, and thermal fuse.What has happened is the element got too hot and the thermal fuse opened.There is no reset button.In some cases you may run across a defective heating element or thermostat but its not common.The fix would probably be replacement of the thermostat and thermal fuse.For this, you would have to contact a small appliance repair center in your area.

Goodluck,
Please don't forget to rate the solution

That is correct, the flat plastic rod that pulls when you depress the on/off button is attached to a switch lever under the bottom of the handle. The rod in mine broke off right where it connects to that switch lever. You can either try and find the new or used part, Braun may have new, I have not tried their 800 number, can't hurt? I fix everything from scratch though and rebuild when I can especially if parts are scarce or obsolete. So I used some marine putty to affix the rod end back to the lever. Marine putty is a stick with two putties you roll together for a rock hard compound, awesome stuff. You can get at Wally World or hardware, auto parts, boat supply stores. I also drilled very small holes in the broken rod on each side and the lever on each side and threaded some thin stainless steel wire through, just looped it around without twisting it togethor before putting the putty over it for a permanent, wire reinforced, fix.The handle is not screwed on exception of one little torx screw at very bottom of handle on base. The handle just snaps together. The base or bottom and 3 screws do not need to be removed either for this rod and lever fix. Remove the top 'cover' piece of the handle first, then remove the two brass pins under it at top next to the on/off button second. So, the handle 'snaps' off with a lock blade knife or equivalent, get under the handle pieces with knife edge and twist the blade, it will pop off as you go, be prepared to break a few little hook pieces off underneath, they break but it seems to snap back on ok anyway. Crazy glue alone won't hold these plastic pieces together btw, try another way, wire and putty, maybe a plastic welding kit etc.. Mine works great again, once I got the lever reattached to the rod.