Bosch Refrigerators - Page 2 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

You could unplug it, it is as you describe, malfunctioning and is not cooling. Unless the internal temperature is correct of course, then it is a waiting game. The alarm cannot be dissabled.

As the fridge is still new and presumably under warranty, if the remedy to the problem isn't to be found in the manual, your next call should be to inform the supplier of the problem and ask for a solution. Your contract is not with the manufacturer but with the retailer/supplier and in return for a parcel of money you have the right to expect a fridge that doesn't beep and does keep the contents cold and remains trouble-free for a reasonable time.

First check whether the compressor is running. You should hear it chugging quietly along with the fan at the bottom of the refrigerator. If it sounds abnormally loud or rough, it has a serious problem. If it runs, but gets very warm, and both If it doesn't run at all, look for a thermal breaker button on the compressor or compressor motor (I don't know what your model looks like, but typically the compressor is sealed inside a black metal dome underneath the refrigerator/freezer compartment. You may have to remove the bottom cover under the freezer door or pull the refrigerator and look in the back to find the compressor. If it has a resettable thermal breaker, it will be a plastic pin that you push in to reset, very much like a similar feature on some vacuum cleaners.) Make sure the fan on the compressor radiator unit is running, and make sure the fins are not dirty. If it is clogged up, the entire unit will overheat, and your refrigerator won't get cold. If after all of this, it still doesn't work, you may have a refrigerant leak. Repairing that is best left to a trained technician with access to Bosch technical information.

Very common problem on that fridge and a easy fix: Replace the two big capacitors on the right side of the control PCB 1uF = 0,68uF 250V They lost their capacity causing bad uC supply and this strange LED blinking. Be aware that this blinking can be intermittent and the fridge appears to return to operation. But the uC suffer a lot of internal resets causing intermittent operation stops, low temperature and more not easy recognizable or strange mal functions. So, if You face that blinking normally the capacitors are gone. Some strange and intermittent behaviors of the fridge are also back routed to this PCB - Capacitor malfunction. So enjoy this 30min fix. The capacitors should not exceed US$2 in Your local electronic shop. If You don't want to spend the US$2 You can find the capacitors as a lucky guy in a old PC power supply. For other more complex problems be aware that the controller board has a very nice and helpful self test option. You go in this mode holding the temperature select button of the refrigerator (not the freezer button) then switch the fridge on and stay on holding the temp button for more 10s. The self test sequence starts in the moment when You release the temp button. LED 1: Checking sensors (Blinking=OK - Continues=NOK, something wrong) LED 2: The Flap opens and close two times (Alarm LED shows the open and close position, so the led must go ON and OFF two times in accordance of the detected flap position from the internal reed contact. (So, no action on the Alarm LED no movement on the Flap or a defect Reed contact) LED 3: Fan goes ON and OFF LED 4: Drain Heater goes ON and OFF LED 5: De- Dicer Heater goes ON and OFF LED 6: Compressor goes ON and OFF LED 7: End of test sequence - Initializing procedure of normal operation. Every step takes 30s and the whole sequence take tree and a half minute. Be aware that the alarm LED is no malfunction indicator. It has only the indicator function for the sensors. The fridge goes in the normal operation mode when he passed the sequence. No further actions necessary. Be aware that every time when the fridge faced a total power lost he makes a short silent 30s check sequence. If he face a malfunction (Sensors or actuators) he doesn't start the compressor anyway to protect the fridge for further damage!!! So, this test sequence is a nice tool to check that the fridge is in the right conditions to start the working and even so to check the compressor function before maybe a unnecessary replacement . With a second build in test option you can select and activate devices in the fridge. For this You hold the fast freeze button and switch the fridge on. After 10s release the button and you are in a manual test mode. With the temperature button select the component - Push the Fast freeze button to activate or deactivate. For example: Select LED6 (Compressor) with the temperature button, push the fast freeze button for ON and OFF. But I ask You to be careful on this test mode to avoid further damages. For example a blocked motor that You should release better by hand than blow up by a tricky fingertip. Enjoy this fix and feel free for Crtl C + Crtl V.

It's most likely, just a piece of plastic tubing. You can get it at the big box hardware stores or at a decent aquarium supply store. Just remove the covers and nip a small piece off to take along so you get the right size. When you install the new hose, dip the snd into some rubbing alcohol. This will lubricate it. The alcohol will evaporate in minutes so, it's harmless.

The temperature sensor is here, one for each section by the looks of it. Are you going to risk $100 $160 that is doesn't just need a top up of gas? https://www.partselect.ca/Models/B22CS80SNS-01/Sections/Freezer-assy/?ModelID=1676019&ModelNum=B22CS80SNS-01&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=72&Selected=50034950-00004&Position=3&mfg=Bosch&Type=Refrigerator&Mark=3 cheaper here https://www.genuinereplacementparts.com/bosch-b22cs80sns-01-temperature-sensor-genuine-oem There are no instruction videos which is unusual. https://www.google.com/search?q=b22cs80sns%2F01+replace+temperature+sensor ..

Download instruction manuals Bosch B22CS80SNS Installation Instructions Installation Instructions Manual Bosch B22CS50SNS Fridge FREEZER8 Manuals Bosch Manual Fridge Bosch User Manuals Operating Guides and Support Information Retrevo

Chances are the electronic board has something to do with its erratic operation. As you know it control the operation of the refrigerator including temperature control, defrost timer, etc.But before replacing that, have the compressor, relay, overload protection be check. That is located at the back of the refrigerator.
Good luck!

Hi,

Do you see a button called alarm/lock?

Press and HOLD that button for five seconds.If that does not work,Press and hold super and freezer buttons at the same time for five seconds.This would change the IWD off message.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

unplug it works well

grease it

I have a Logixx with the same problem. Brute force was the answer. You cant lever the tongues out of the way and so cant release the handle gently. Use a piece of wood and lever the handle forward in the same direction as you open the door and it should come off. The new handle then snaps back in. You may need to remove the residue of the old broken part of the clips.

Fridge not starting? CLICKING? FIRST ALWAYSCHECK FORpower at the outlet,checkfor 120 volts. MAY HAVE A BAD START RELAY OR CAPACITOR ON THE COMPRESSOR , CAN BUY A INEXSPENSIVE 3 IN 1 HARDSTART KIT AND BY PASS THEM , NOT THAT HARD TO DO, COMES WITH INSTRUCTIONS> BY THE WAY DO U HEAR ANY CLICKING SOUNDS FROM COMPRESSOR? BUT U MAY ALSO WANT TO CHECK UR COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT IF IT GOES BAD U MAY GET A NON START ALSO HAVE IT CHECKED FOR PROPER VOLTAGE AND OHMS RESISTANCE WHEN IN THE ON POSITION A BAD DEFROST TIMER though seldom CAN SHUT DOWN COMPRESSOR HAVE IT CHECKED WITH MULTI METER. to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Some fridges are now using ADC boards. Designers are using microprocessors (on solid state circuit boards) to adapt defrost intervals and durations to compensate for differences and changes in operating conditions. Such techniques are calledAdaptive Defrost Control, commonly abbreviated as ADC. Theu are normally found in same locations as the timer would be but look somewhat different in appearance. It is more difficult to test these units without the appliance schematic. Some ADC / control boards control other functions of the refrigerator, too, such as icemaking and electrical air damper door opening and closing.The defrost frequency may also be shortened under certain circumstances. AT TIMES YOU MAY HEAR THE COMPRESSOR CLICK OFF AND ON OVER AND OVER. Signs of a bad start relay or capacitor. Check with an OHMS meter for continuity (ohms) and voltage, capacitor can be checked for Microfares. ( if in series with the windings) If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, sometimes located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur start winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground or COM Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms, u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me. TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810. The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html Refrigeration System Basics Chapter 1

why not check bulb first

b ad compressor or start up capacitors to it

There is a refrigerant leak which will become more noticeable over time.

Request the wiring diagram directly from Bosch.

Request or order the service manual directly from Bosch.

Try contacting Bosch directly to request the diagram.

there is only one screw on the handles from what i found out from fixing my loose handle. the bottom of the door handle has one screw. once you loosen that one up then you lift it and it comes out at the top enough to slide the handle out and tighten it.