Bosch built in microwoven error E 3 how to fiend the problem
If you're seeing an E3 error on your Bosch built-in microwave, it usually indicates an issue with the touchpad or control board. Here are some steps you can take to try to fix the problem:
1. Unplug the microwave: The first step is to unplug the microwave from the electrical outlet for at least a minute. This will reset the control board and may clear the error code.
2. Check the touchpad: Sometimes, the E3 error can be caused by a stuck or malfunctioning touchpad. Check the touchpad for any damage or debris that may be interfering with its operation. Clean the touchpad with a soft, damp cloth and make sure it is completely dry before plugging the microwave back in.
3. Replace the touchpad: If the touchpad is damaged or not working properly, it may need to be replaced. Contact a Bosch authorized service center to order a replacement touchpad and have it installed by a qualified technician.
4. Replace the control board: If the touchpad is not the issue, the E3 error may be caused by a faulty control board. Again, contact a Bosch authorized service center to order a replacement control board and have it installed by a qualified technician.
In any case, if these solutions do not work, it's best to contact a qualified technician to diagnose and repair the issue, as microwave repairs can be dangerous due to the high voltage involved.
4/26/2023 4:42:30 AM •
Bosch...
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Answered
on Apr 26, 2023
NET7452UC Electric Cooktop shows errors 26 and 42. What do they mean?
Problem: Error codes 26 or 42 after turning on too many heating elements.Potential issue: Damaged main electronic boardSpecific case: Error code 42 after turning on more than 3 elements, then already after 2, 1 until none of the cooking element could be turned on, over a period of a few weeks.Root cause: Dying/blown electrolytic capacitor on the main electronics board.Solution:1) Turn off power (circuit breaker) - caution high voltage inside the cooktop2) Lift the cooktop out of the hole in the countertop and slide it on a flat surface3) Remove all screws around the metal housing using a torx screwdriver4) Carefully tilt the glass top out of the housing on the front, noting that there are electrical connections in the rear, and place the rear end of the glass on a stable surface. You may need someone's assistance here.5) After double-checking that there is no power, record the color coding of the four wires connected to the glass assembly (green for ground, white, black, red from left to right)6) Next open the black plastic cover by removing four Torx screws.7) Carefully remove from the connector on the left the the plastic strip connecting to the display board.8) Carefully remove the circuit board with relays and capacitors that is held in place by plastic tabs.9) If one of the capacitors is bulging out or showing sings of damage on top, replacing it may fix the appliance. De-soldering a bad capacitor requires some tools and skill. Replace the capacitor with at least the same capacity, voltage and use high-temp. 105C version) Alternatively, instead of replacing a $2 component you will have to replace the entire board.10) Reassemble and done.
Spray arm hits plastic water supply as it spins, making a banging noise
I had this exact problem. There is a single hole on the underside of the arm, and it seems like the jet from it is enough to lift the arm so that it clears the plastic. The hole was clogged for me. Still have some thumping noise but it's 1/10th of what it was before.
4/17/2023 8:24:07 PM •
Bosch...
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Answered
on Apr 17, 2023
Bosch single wall ovens where is the thermal fuse located
Hi!
The location of the thermal fuse in a Bosch single wall oven may vary depending on the model, but it is typically located on the back of the oven.
To locate the thermal fuse, follow these steps:
- Turn off power to the oven: Before attempting any repairs, turn off the power to the oven by unplugging it or turning off the circuit breaker that supplies power to the oven.
- Remove the back panel: Locate the screws or bolts that hold the back panel of the oven in place and remove them using a screwdriver or socket wrench. Carefully remove the back panel to access the components inside the oven.
- Locate the thermal fuse: Look for a small, rectangular device with two wires attached to it. This is the thermal fuse. It may be located near the top or bottom of the back of the oven, depending on the model.
- Check the thermal fuse for continuity: Use a multimeter to check the continuity of the thermal fuse. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting and touch the probes to the two terminals of the thermal fuse. If the multimeter shows no continuity, the thermal fuse has blown and needs to be replaced.
- Replace the thermal fuse: If the thermal fuse has blown, replace it with a new one of the same rating. Install the new fuse in the same location as the old one and reattach the back panel of the oven.
- Test the oven: After replacing the thermal fuse and reassembling the oven, turn on power to the oven and test it to ensure that it is working properly.
If you are not comfortable working with electrical components or if you are unable to locate the thermal fuse in your Bosch single wall oven, it's recommended to seek the assistance of a qualified technician.
Kind regards
3/25/2023 5:49:23 AM •
Bosch Ovens
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Answered
on Mar 25, 2023
Bosch DHD965AUC will not turn on, go down
The multi button switch may be fouled with cooking grease. If the switch has not failed, you may be able to clean the buttons. Unplug the unit before starting. Prop the vent up (you should be able to pull it up by hand) and unscrew the end caps, pull the top cap off and turn over. There are three small nuts on the underside of the switch, I loosen these with a jewlers needle nose pliers and remove by hand. Once you have the switch semi free (the cable has some play in it) pull off and wash the black caps in hot soapy water. As long as you did unplug the unit, you can pour rubbing alcohol over the white stems and push up and down to move grease out. We sometimes use a cleaning solution. Let dry until you are absolutely sure that all moisture has evaporated. Re assemble, plug in and try the switch.
This has worked for us for the past 5 years which beats the almost $300 price for the new part (part, tax and shipping).
Tool bogs down while drilling holes in concrete-as though it's binding up inside.
Depends what damage has been done to the motor. If the tool is still running but sparking you need to check what sort of sparks they are. Short fat blue sparks only going halfway round the commutator (brush end of motor/armature) then it is 90% probable that just your field coil assy is blown. If it is thinner, whitersparks going all the way around then it is the armature and possibly the field aswell. Another way to check is to remove the brushes via the covers on either side at teh bottom of the motor and check the contacting surface. If it is fairly shiney and polishe then there is little sparking and hopefully no cause for concern. If one or both is pitted and dull it has been sparking and burning. If one is shorter and darker than teh otehr this indicates a problem with the field coil. It isn't a massivly hard job to change the motor parts. If you need more advice let me know.
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