Black & Decker Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

This is so weird. I have the exact same serial number for my Camfield mixer with the same model (I'm guessing from about 1955-57). I wonder if they just put the same serial number on for products created at the same time. I thought 6404 was really low. Did you ever find replacement beaters? Mine have rusted. This was my mother's mixer and I just have a fond place in my heart for it.

The really fine wire is soldered from the RED terminal on left to the RED terminal on the top left (underneath the board). See below in the images.

its listed as a vintage sander may have to source used ones ... ebay ? cant find a user manual online parts might be discontinued not showing up on the parts list Black and Decker Sander Parts

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Better read through all of this before jumping in. I am not sure it fits your situation exactly. To remove the change position collar on the lower assembly of your 2018 Black and Decker Grass Hog, follow these steps: Disconnect the Power: Before servicing the trimmer, disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery to prevent accidental reconnection. Remove the Instrument Panel: The instrument panel houses controls for most of the electrical systems in the vehicle. Remove the instrument panel by following these steps: Disconnect the negative battery cable. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels. Apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front of the vehicle securely on jackstands. Remove the front wheels. Remove the retaining nut in the radiator coolant recovery reservoir assembly. Remove the retaining bolt in the front fender splash shield and position it out of the way. Are we approaching where you think you stripped something? Access the Lower Assembly: Tag and remove the wiring connectors. Remove the retaining screw in the parking brake control. Remove the parking brake control. Remove the retaining screw in the instrument panel finish panel in the lower instrument panel. Remove the retaining screw in the steering column opening reinforcement. Remove the retaining screw in the steering gear housing. Remove the tilt wheel handle and shank. Remove the ignition switch. Disconnect the upper steering column shroud and remove the retaining bolts. Disconnect the ignition switch assembly. Tag and remove the electrical connector. Disconnect the vacuum hose. Remove the retaining nut in the steering column assembly. Lower the steering column tube assembly. Disconnect the shift cable assembly. Remove the steering column shroud retaining screw. Remove the retaining screws from the multi-function switch and position it out of the way. Remove the retaining screw from the cowl side trim panel. Remove the lower panel door trim, remove the retaining screw, and position the panel out of the way. Tag and disconnect the wiring connectors and remove the ground wire assembly. Remove the retaining rivet in the passenger side of the instrument panel. Disconnect the generator. Disconnect the radio feed of the wire assembly. Remove the Sector Gears: Remove the positioning tab on the end of the lock cylinder using an 1/8-inch burring tool. Remove all burrs from the lock module and cylinder assembly. Push on the locking tab of the lock cylinder from inside the lock module assembly and remove the lock cylinder. Remember to exercise caution and follow safety guidelines while working on your Grass Hog. If you encounter any difficulties, consider referring to the instruction manual for additional guidance. This is all the info I have scraped together.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwie-r2mzaODAxWiHTQIHRVJBRYQFnoECA0QAw&url=https%3A%2F%2Fforum.huawei.com%2Fenterprise%2Fen%2Finverter-on-bypass-mode-issue%2Fthread%2F697601427049955328-667213868771979264%23%3A~%3Atext%3DOverload%253A%2520An%2520overload%2520occurs%2520when%2Cmay%2520be%2520causing%2520the%2520overload.&usg=AOvVaw1oA4ebho3B7tF1cjCAaPFp&opi=89978449

They don't have an instruction manual online at the Black and Decker support site, but if you want a look at the exploded diagram, it's here.

Basically there's a collet nut that gets tightened down to hold the bit in place. You've got to loosen it up and you'll be able to pop bits in and out. You've got to have some way to lock the shaft while you're doing this though.

Most modern routers have a spring loaded shaft lock button. While you're holding it in, start turning the collet. When the shaft gets to the point where there's a little hole for the spring lock, you'll probably hear a little click, and the shaft will be locked so you can loosen the collet. If you take your finger off the shaft lock, it pops right back out again so hold it down while you're loosening and tightening.

If you don't see a shaft lock button, you may have a second hex nut at the base and with two wrenches, you can hold the hex nut and turn the collet loose that way.

If this answer was helpful, please give it a vote. Thanks.

The motor does not go in reverse.

I just bought a new b2250 machine from Zellers for $59 dollars, they also have the b2000 for the same price. It's not worth your time to mess around trying to fix these things.

It means one of two things. Either you do not have a good connection from the charger to the battery, check and clean the clamps and terminals, or the battery has too low a charge. A smart charger needs to measure the existing charge before it will work.

It has failed or failing cells. The pack is full of 18650 batteries. Sometimes you can regenerate them by removing them and charging one at a time. Or the electric motor and bearings need lubrication. See if the blade spins easily by hand.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1196271/Black-And-Decker-7696.html?page=6

you will need to replace batteries. Google black&decker flex vacuum battery cost about $30.00 to $80.00

Before you start removing covers and panels unplug the mower. Turn the mower over and carefully try to spin the blade by hand. Your checking to where the issue is most likely to be. Does the motor sound different when you pull the Start trigger? If it sounds a lot faster than normal, it could be an issue between the motor and gearbox. Does the blade spin really easily and feel like it's not bolted down? Does the blade not turn at all like it's 'locked' or 'jammed'? - A loose or floppy blade is commonly the centre mount bolt for the blade is loose or the blade isn't seated correctly. - A 'locked' blade could be a gearbox or a motor issue.

Check some of these sites... https://www.google.com/search?newwindow=1&rlz=1C1CHBD_enUS885US885&tbm=vid&sxsrf=AB5stBjF50zleZxiMQ_3GyVDe5dk6CWTJw:1691512241170&q=Black+%26+Decker+Lawn+Mower+The+motor+is+running,+the+blade+not+turning&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjAm5KSvs2AAxWdMDQIHZNqDrgQ8ccDegQIEhAJ&biw=1280&bih=571&dpr=1.5

This will be a suggestion...but for mine I bought two 18650 LiFePo4 cells (3.7V each) and replaced the original NiCd Batteries. It has been working for many years now, since the original batteries expired and stop working in 2002 (I bought the CD 1000 back in 1994!!!!!). You have to use a special charger for the new ones but they stay charged a lot more and the drill has more torque.

notify manufacturer Fixya has no authority over defective appliances

Here's the scoop on the MM875: it has a plastic piece called a "blade insulator" (part # 241381-01) that "locks" the shaft to the blade, so that you can remove the nut by stopping or blocking the blade. If it has been damaged or stripped out, then stopping the blade won't do anything. However, the metal spacer directly under the nut IS still locked to the shaft (because of its shape), so you can use a pipe wrench or something to hold that in place and unscrew the nut. You might even be able to get someone in a home improvement store to do this for you. But you will still need to replace the insulator, which is only a few dollars.