American Standard Water Heaters - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Tank Water Heaters need to be flushed now and gain to get rid of MINERAL buildup. At the bottom is a water valve where you can attach a hose. Run the hose out doors and then open the valve to allow the water to flow freely. That was easy. When water heats up, especially where the elements or gas flame are close to the heater bottom area, it may crackle or pop, but that is only expansion and contraction which is normal. Just watch to see if any water drips onto the floor which is a sign that the wall has been breached and the heater needs to be replaced.

Based on the limited information you have given, it may be a bad thermostat.

most of electric element is 1 1/2" socket. No need to hire pro , at www.bangslush.com they sell the element socket for only $ 14.95 with free shipping. The socket is especially engineer for 1 1/2" water heater elements, the socket not like other, the elements is snug fit for easy removal and replacement. it also snap on onto the socket the element will not fall off the socket

Plumber is right.
Problem is not amount of air in attic. Problem is how hot the air is.
Oxygen molecules separate apart in very hot air and pilot light goes out since there is not enough oxygen density to support combustion.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Water-heater-in-attic-800.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Attic-Ventilation-and-Pilot-Outage-in-Gas%20Water-Heaters.pdf

More ventilation is needed.
Plumber is not ventilating expert, and not responsible for attic ventilation that builder failed to install. Plumber should do a survey of location before installation to make sure gasoline vapors are not stored nearby, but summer attic ventilation is gray area until more general-public folks become aware of problem. Hotter summers temperatures will spread that information.

Hire local home center to install roof vents AND soffit vents.
Note: You also need soffit vents.
Remember a vent on the roof is like sucking air out of a coke bottle. The roof vent is no good unless air can also enter the attic from another vent located in the soffit.

Another solution is electric water heater for very hot locations.
Or install solar-assisted water heater.
http://www.hotwater.com/products/residential/cirrex_solar.html

Hi,

Here is a tip that I wrote that will tell you how to reset that hot water heater...

Electric Water Heater not Working
heatman101

These have a photoelectric eye , much the same as a motion sensor on an outside lamp, just pull this out, clean with a wet wipe, dry with a towel & replace, press the reset switch & your boiler should fire up producing lovely hot water

It holds 80 gallons. How big is your inlet pipe? How much water pressure? How many gallons per minute? Then you will have your answer.

1) Copy following link for troubleshoot walk-thru leaking water heater, and strategies for next water heater if needed.http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html2) If you have electric water heater, the element could be leaking. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Contact AO Smith ? http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html Gene If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html Gene If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

It is probably the water passing through some restriction such as a valve or maybe a T or 90. If this is correct changing the water flow will change the pitch and it will be absent when there is no water flow. If that doesn't change or eliminate the high pitch sound I do not have a clue.

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-fix-water-heater.html http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html Gene h If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

The thermocouple is not functioning. The t/c is the small (sensor) tube that the flame touches and should have a small copper tube (capillary) extending to the gas valve. (IMPORTANT: The capillary tube should not have any kinks or crimped places...Only gentle bends. A crimped tube will require t/c replacement.) The flame will deposit a coating (minerals) that will insulate the t/c and prevent it from working. Clean the sensor with steel wool, fine sand paper (emery board) or scotch pad. Now try to relight the pilot making sure the t/c sensor is contacted by the flame, if not, shut off gas and adjust. Once aligned and contacted by pilot flame, hold for a minute, allowing the t/c to warm up fully and signal the gas valve to operate when knob is turned from pilot to operate.

You didn't indicate model, etc., but consider the following: If an electric unit: 1-Check the circuit breakers, 2-Some units have a reset on the unit, check that, 3-If this is an older unit, the heating element may be gone and need to be replaced. If a gas unit: 1-Ensure the gas is turned, 2-Ensure that pilot light is on, if not, relight UNLESS..., 3-If automatic lighting, does unit spark when attempting to come on. If this unit is over 10 years old, I would recommend completely replacing it rather than repairing it if the above doesn't work. New units are much more efficient and the savings could outweigh the cost in the long run.