American Standard Plumbing - Page 6 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

When shower faucet apart make sure hot is getting 2 & coming out faucet ***. did you turn off stop integral w/ faucet or outgoing shut off valve on water heater.. May have rust or lime in small orifice leading to faucet ***. does your balancer/ piston move freely..good luck..

is there a cap on the front of the knob where you can pry it open with a screwdriver then remove the screw and then the knob?

Using the number you gave it is an American Standard faucet here is a link to a parts place.
I would use the factory parts.

http://americanstandard.faucetdirect.com/index.cfm?page=product:partsDisplay&productId=4205.104&manufacturer=American%20Standard

if you are having trouble removing the set screw make sure you are using the correct size allen wrench and confirm that it is a allen screw and not a trox screw. After doing this try tighten the screw slightly before loosening it. This should break it loose.

I just spent a week wrestling with a similar problem, and I'm posting in an attempt to save someone else an ulcer. Using a Colony single-handle valve, the temperature got so we couldn't control it. Either all hot or all cold. I called A.S. and they sent a new pressure balancing cartridge and new valve cartridge. Replaced both and then there was no water at all coming out of the shower head. Tried every possible combination of old and new parts, flushed pipes, etc. Finally took the shower head off and found it completely clogged with debris. It was a mix of sediment and the white grease that was in the new cartridges, which must have been displaced when I started messing with it. And it clogged it all at once (no flow problems before all of this). Works fine now!

you have a loose adjusting nut in the spray head that will cause this to happen. First turn off the water service valves. By removing the lock ring on the sprayer the adjustment can be made

Also here is a site to save on most home remedies

http://www.ihoep.com/userfiles/1_%20Maintenance%20Manual%20Complete.pdf

You have to lube the seals. New seals will be much firmer than leaking ones...but clean and lube is necessary.

there is a tiny grub screw at the back of the spout at low level.

hi! if tightening the knob(s), (or if you apply pressure on the knob of the faucet,for the models with no thread for open/close), modify the amount of water leaking ,you need to replace the seats in the faucet. if not ,just replacing the o rings should fix your problem.

Just in case try taking the aerator off and try the faucet.

At the base of the handle there is a flow regulating check valve. Shut off water supply and unscrew handle and look for debris. Many times the washers break down on the shutoffs under the sink and release "crumbs", these usually block aerators and sometimes the cartridges on certain faucets. Hope this was helpful.

American Standard has an on-line Repair Parts centre:

http://www.americanstandard-us.com/store/repair-parts/

There is a possibility when you installed it calcium and other foreign deposits clogged the hot side of the faucet. It is important before connecting your supply lines to flush out into a bucket before connecting. Most faucets are now made to save water and come with restrictive orifice in the valves. Water heaters are rarely maintained by completely shutting them down, flushing and cleaning tank, vacuum out firebox, test T&P valves and visually check for any signs of corrosion on an annual basis. They are usually the culprit for the types of problem you are describing. Try disconnecting your hot water supply at the emergency shut off valve, (make sure it's off) take a bucket and with the cold water still on, open your faucet to the center position. This may blow out the debris that is stuck in orifice.

Check the aerator and see if it is getting plug up.

Hi, TYhe instructions for both models are the same. The 2 different methods of installation/uninstallation in the instructions refer to whether or not an escutcheon was used when installed. The escutcheon is the chrome piece that encircles the faucet and fits on the sink. So, if you have just a bare, chrome tube entering the sink, there is no escutcheon.

I hope this helps. Please click a vote for me if it does.

Thanks,
Handie Andie

You will need to take those old parts to a store or place that handles Danco replacement parts. I wish I could direct you to a place that would have what your looking for but parts that old are just not out there. The other possibility is to rebuild what you have those old parts a really tough. I have some old stems and handles that you are welcome to just send me some pictures of what you have and we might get lucky. [email protected]

if you remove the actual drain mechanism you will see where the drain stopper rod goes into.It`s a hole that works on a lever. You need both hands to insert rod into and then use the other hand to find the right height position to anchor the drain stopper. You insert it from behind and then tighten the drain stopper on the drain pipe. Take your time this sounds complicated but it is quite easy. When you have it lined up you can check the operation of the rod by going up and down.And see if it holds water and then see if it drains the water..

Tub spout threads onto end of pipe. The diverter does not play a role.

Sometimes these things get rusted in place, and you have to bend them getting it off.
When all else fails, get a big pipe wrench and muscle it until it bends up and comes off.
Sounds like you might need a new tub spout ... and might need a new pipe ... be sure to match length of pipe to depth of threads on new spout.

Photos from google-image search for "tub spout removal tool"
http://www.justingermino.com/replacing-bath-tub-spout/

That is normal with that faucet.

Check the screen in the end where the water come out it could be plugged.

http://www.jadousa.com/products/productDetail.aspx?id=3582

exploded diagrams:
http://www.jadousa.com/assets/documents/jado/parts/Parts_3794.pdf