American Standard Plumbing - Page 7 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

is there a cap on the front of the knob where you can pry it open with a screwdriver then remove the screw and then the knob?

I imagine you have the installation instructions since you just installed it. Your new shower handle has a hot limit safety stop. You can set this with a flat blade screwdriver. The safety stop is the red ring in the handle and all you need to do is pry the ring forward with the screw driver and rotate it clockwise to increase your hot water.

Hope this helps. If it does, I'd appreciate your vote. Thanks,

Handie Andie

How long have you had this? is everythign tight? check underneath the sink to ensure all connections are tight. The spout may have came loose, and it may not be able to be fixed, may need to be replaced.

Hi, TYhe instructions for both models are the same. The 2 different methods of installation/uninstallation in the instructions refer to whether or not an escutcheon was used when installed. The escutcheon is the chrome piece that encircles the faucet and fits on the sink. So, if you have just a bare, chrome tube entering the sink, there is no escutcheon.

I hope this helps. Please click a vote for me if it does.

Thanks,
Handie Andie

When shower faucet apart make sure hot is getting 2 & coming out faucet ***. did you turn off stop integral w/ faucet or outgoing shut off valve on water heater.. May have rust or lime in small orifice leading to faucet ***. does your balancer/ piston move freely..good luck..

replace gaskets, and hot & cold water stems inside of manifold (turn off water first).

American Standard has an on-line Repair Parts centre:

http://www.americanstandard-us.com/store/repair-parts/

You will need to take those old parts to a store or place that handles Danco replacement parts. I wish I could direct you to a place that would have what your looking for but parts that old are just not out there. The other possibility is to rebuild what you have those old parts a really tough. I have some old stems and handles that you are welcome to just send me some pictures of what you have and we might get lucky. [email protected]

Just in case try taking the aerator off and try the faucet.

If you live in an area where it freezes for long periods of time in the winter you should put in footers at a 3 to 4 feet and even if you don't live in freeze area you should put in footers at a 1 1/2 to two feet if want the porch, As for the 3" you may as well go with what ever a 2x4 comes to and you will not have to cut the boards dow to 3".

Using the number you gave it is an American Standard faucet here is a link to a parts place.
I would use the factory parts.

http://americanstandard.faucetdirect.com/index.cfm?page=product:partsDisplay&productId=4205.104&manufacturer=American%20Standard

The goose neck holds water like a trap, it is normal for it to drain from the neck after it is shut off. It will drip for a couple of seconds later.

Some seats ae rremovable and some or not Some take a hex(allen) wrench and some take a square (seat removal tool)  Most of us use a seat grinder. (another tool to dress up the seat (Remove material) past the seat damage. You will find any of these tools at any hardware store that sells plumbing parts. If the seats have a square or hex hole remove and replace rather that grind(dress)the seat. All right hand threads meaning turn counter clock wise to remove. Take old seat to the American Standard plmbing supply outlet and then will match it up. Good fix-in to ya.

hi! if tightening the knob(s), (or if you apply pressure on the knob of the faucet,for the models with no thread for open/close), modify the amount of water leaking ,you need to replace the seats in the faucet. if not ,just replacing the o rings should fix your problem.

Obstruction may be in the screen, try unscrewing where the water comes out.

If you can not see the set screw with a light you will need to just try allan wrenches until you find the one that fits.
I know that's not what you want to hear but with all the different sizes out there and then add in the metric stuff it is impossible to now what size your working with.
I went to the american standard book and over the years they have used 9 different sizes some metric and some standard us.

there is a tiny grub screw at the back of the spout at low level.

You have to lube the seals. New seals will be much firmer than leaking ones...but clean and lube is necessary.

Hi, Bro..
Please get it here, then www.concrete-pipe.org/pdfs1/DD_1.pdf
www.concrete-pipe.org/pdfs1/DD_3M.pdf
www.concretepipe-mi.org/pdf/resource_catalog_06-07.pdf
I hope you will the pipes master after get these stuffs.
Best regards, Jay

The single handled faucets have a valve cartridge which needs to be replaced when it leaks. Disassemble the handle to find the valve inside. Take the valve to the hardware store to be sure you get the right one and reassemble. To disassemble, pop the cap off the lever, unscrew the single screw, then use slip-joint pliers to loosen the retainer nut. lift the cartridge out with pliers taking note of the direction of the notch at the top of the stem. Be sure to reassemble with the notch facing in the same direction. You should replace and lubricate the O-rings when you change the valve cartridge.
Since you have the numbers for that particular faucet, you might want to call around to find the cartridge first. Different models have different valves, so be sure yours is correct.