American Standard Plumbing - Page 5 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Hello Daniel, I've had the same problem a time or two in the past, and although it seems to be a problem you dont want to tackle, it is rather easy and dosen't take much time. First you need to know the brand name of the faucet, then go to your local hardware store and tell them what you are looking for. They should then give you a faucet repair kit that contains maybe rubber "O" rings, washers, and or gaskets, along with a diagram of how it all works. Then when you get back to your faucet, shut off your water and draing the pressure by oppening the valve (should only take a couple of seconds or so), and follow the directions on the package. Now they are small parts, so when you take it apart, just pay close attention to how it breakes down, and putting it back together will be a breeze. Hope this helped some, and best of luck

Usually when the power flush does not work it is because a leak has developed in the pressurized tank. They are known to develop leaks, usually along the molding lines. I am not sure if the tanks are replaceable. Or, it could be something as simple as the flush leaver not engaging the valve assembly on the tank. Take of the tank lid and try to flush and let me know what you see. Good Luck

sounds like one of the stems are leaking thru.

These types faucets have a what is called an anti scald valve build into them, it is required by law, it is either defective or out of adjustment, contact a local hardware store for more detailed info.

http://www.zurn.com/pages/catalog.asp?ProductGroupID=185&OperationID=22#p4179From that page, locate the model and the drop down selector for the installation instructions (#2) will have the blow up diagram of the unit.It appears the only way they handle the sensor is as part of the spout assembly. P6915-1This may be a longshot, but it "may" be possible to clean up the sensor so it is functional again. If you use the same approach as you would do in paint finishing, start with 400 grit to smooth it, drop to 800 then 1500 grit, then rub it down with fine cut polish and then fine cut cleaner, I have used this method to remove scratched in grafitti on clear acrylic plastic with excellent results and no crazing later. The finishing compounds are Maguire's paint finishing, but comparable 3M products or other brands should work. It may seem like a great deal of work, but in the long run when you weigh the number of faucets and what the spout price is versus the time/overhead of the polishing, it may be cost effective if enough units are involved. You know the new ones will get scratched up again.

Same problem. Home Depot staff member advised after looking at assembly, the plastic threaded portion to keep cartridge etc. in place had disintegrated. Apparently this was not new to staff member!I bought another brand. Water damge becuase of this faulty product cost me a lot of money.

Hi kwbaker! Assuming the cartridge is new and the water drips at both hot and cold settings, I would check your shower head. It is not uncommon for debris to collect in the screening there and clog the spray nozzle. To check the shower head you'll need to remove it from its piping. Use two tools--I normally use an adjustable wrench and a strap wrench--to hold the wall pipe and simultaneaously turn the shower head counter-clockwise. The cresecent wrench grabs the hex-head of the shower head, while the strap wrench holds the chromed piping without scratching it. Be sure you don't lose the rubber washer inside the pipe-to-shower head connection! Once the head is removed, look inside it at the pipe side. You should be able to see into the mechanicals of the shower head--very often I'll see bits of rust or scale. Oftentimes its enough to rinse the pipe side of the head under a sink; in extreme situations it can be easier to replace the entire shower head.To replace the shower head, use two tools in the same manner in which the head was removed: crescent wrench to turn the shower head, strap wrench to hold supply piping. This time, however, turn the shower head clockwise until it tightens snug.Hope this helps!--Joe

Dar ul Riyaad Saudi arabia. May be thery contacted you for hiring

X + ( X + 2 ) + ( X + 4 ) = 105
3X + 6 = 105
3X = 105 - 6
3X = 99
X = 99/3
X = 33
So 33 + 35 + 37 = 105

One of two things can be wrong.The first is the drain plug itself has become disengaged with the plunger inside the drain line. You can check this by pulling up on the drain stopper itself, if it comes all the way out then all you need to do is to reinsert it and give it a little twist to get it reseated on the plunger hook. The other may be the drain handle on the top of the faucet may be disconnected from the rod. Open up the doors underneath the sink and inspect it. The rod should go down and the plunger handle should connect to the rod via a bent metal clip. Ensure it is in the correct position to activate the handle in the drain pipe when the top is pulled up.

NO DONT replace anything > You have what id call water hammer. This happends when water gets in the air chambers, Air chambers are nothing more than a 1 foot or 2 foot long section of pipe with a cap on it. When its working air gets trapped in the pipe and you can compress air but not water, so if the air is gone BANG BANG goes the pipe.

takes 10 mins to fix. turn off the water to the house out side. open every faucet in the house and the hose fauects out side. wait 5 mins and then close everything and turn on the water. You will see ait come out of the faucets it will stop after just a momnet or two.

That should do it. check your tub shower valve and it will work fine

Thanks for asking us to help

Hope this worked for you Tom

The screws ae under the center cap. unlike todays faucets this cap is screwed in. You will see a little edge on the cap so you can take your channel locks and turn it counter clock wise. Under that is the bress screws.

You might need a handel puller if they have not been appart for so many years. The puller will also protect you from breaking the stem and the handle.

Hope this helped you out, we all know how little things kick our butts.

Thanks again

Tom

pull it out as far as you need. You will not hurt anything just dont try to wash the car its not that long
I have my spout in the middle and I pull out all I need to clean out both sidees it works just fine

Thanks Richard

Ok more than likly your putty dried out and yes you will have to remove the drain and do it again. First you need to get a small tub of putty, you dont need much. If your drain has a cross in the drain when you look in the bottom you would need to buy what is call a "*********" this is a tool that fits into the drain and then you would turn the ********* counter clock wise. You will more than likey have to use a an other tool to add some extra power to turn the *********.

After you get that out clean all the old puddy out and then screw in back in the same way it came out and test it by filling the tub

Thanks Tom

You can get the install manual on the link below. It will tell you how to adjust the drain.
http://www.americanstandard-us.com/assets/documents/amstd/install/Install_3070.pdf
http://www.americanstandard-us.com/assets/documents/amstd/other/335AA8C1.pdf

White and black. Special order any color - but it will take months to arrive.

Thanks!

You will need to replace the o rings. Buy the proper kit from your local hardware store. Turn the water off. Remove the handle (screw under top cap0 and the spout will slide up and off. Replace o rings and lube them with plumbers grease or Vaseline.
from:
fshnfool Rank: Master, posted September 2009

check restores and used stoers in your erea
Habitat for humanity ussally has stores in most cities

Im gona say look for a 1/8 allen screw under a cap or plug of some sort on top or front of handle. loosen or remove sc..sonetimes handle is on snug ,,,,.good luck ';';';;'

Hi! If there are no leaks from around the spout, you can remove the spout and apply silicone lube to the spout o-rings and resemble. If it is still hard to move ,replace the o-rings.