American Standard Home - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Replace flapper with one for your toilet model.

Turn knob on top of float ball to increase ball height which will increase water column. Up to 1" of overflow tube.

Raise height of water by raising float valve. It has a twist knob at top of ball to raise and lower ball. Column should be about 1 inch below overflow tube.

Flapper seal is damaged or worn out. Replace Flapper with one for your model.

Check AS website or go to plumbing supply house, HD or Lowes to see catalog for models available

Replace flapper. Use American Standard flapper for your unit.

Start with the flapper. They tend to dry up especially with water that contains chlorine. Purchase the American Standard flapper if available for that toilet. Works better than generics.

Go to American Standard website for customer assistance phone number.

It could be a venting issue. Check the roof vent for the plumbing system. Perhaps clogged with leaves or other debris causing a blockage in the vent line. You can use a hose up to the roof and flush out the vent line. Another problem may be calcium buildup. CLR , a product available at most hardware and grocery stores will dissolve mineral buildups.

Try a bathroom supply shop or your place of purchase. Failing that try http://www.americanstandard-us.com/support/

If you've tried turning off both shutoffs underneath and water still runs, then the shutoffs are also likely worn out and need to be replaced. If there is no way to shut off from that point, then the only other option is to have somebody turn off all water in the house near your water meter or main water line. In many places, hardware stores will sell something called a "water shutoff key", but depending on your location, it may have a different local name. Once water is off to the whole house, turn the hot water on somewhere in the house to reduce pressure from your water heater before replacing your faucet and shutoff valves. It is a good idea to take one of your old water shutoffs with you to a hardware store to make sure the new one would fit propperly. If you know somebody who can take apart the faucets to check and replace just the washers, then it could be fixed with even less expense, if you would not rather replace the faucet with a new one that will last longer.

The account for that email address was canceled and can't be accessed i need started my account in tagged my email is [email protected]

You will need to check with the Mfg of your bathtub for new skirt.You may find a generic front skirt at your local hardware store i.e. Lowes or Home Depot.US Parts Center

This sounds like the air switch in the motor is not working properly. You will need to remove the pump from under the tub to access the air switch located in a housing on the motor.

Replacement Air Switch will cost you about $20US Parts Center

Two things come to mind, The sinks were installed out of balance and way over tightened causing a constant stress on a warped surface, or a foreign object was left under lips of sinks. If they were purchased and installed at the same time you could have received damaged merchandise.

I think you have covered it all. Just last flush !

my urinals are overflowing how can I fix this problem I have put a brick in the tank how can I stop this

One inch is exactly 2.54 cm, so if you're 5 ft 9 in then you're about 175 cm.

turn off main water in home . turn on tap some where in home to release presser take shower handle off (screw under cap) unscrew the tap with a wrench unscrew on insides you pull out replace washer put all back togethere

Hello, W/D, toilet expert, here.
The tank has a water level line cast into the inside back of the tank. That's where your water level should ideally be. Now, there are a variety of water level controllers, so we'll hit on the major ones. But first, a little nomenclature, so you'll know what it isn't. If you remove the tank lid, you'll notice a tube in the middle that's open, and usually has a smaller tube inserted or attached to it. This is the overflow tube, and feeds water to the rim of the bowl. At the base of the overflow tube is the flapper, and it controls the majority of the flushing power. The flapper is operated by a chain connected to the flush lever. When the flapper is raised (flushed), the water level drops. On the left side of the tank is the water fill valve, The water coming from the house via the tubing under the tank goes into this valve assembly. Part of this assembly is the all important float.
Older ones have the float at the end of an arm, As the water level falls, the float falls and operates the water inlet valve at the other end of the float, on the water fill valve. As the level rises in the tank, the float rises with the level and shuts off the water when it gets to it's pre-set level. This type is adjusted by positioning the float either by the screw adjustments on each end of the float arm, or sometimes by bending the float arm.
The newer types have the float either built in, or the float surrounds the fill valve. The one that surrounds the fill valve looks like a very fat donut and is very similar to the older float arm type, just more compact. The water level is set by adjusting the linkage between the float and the water valve at the top of the water control valve.
The newer newer type has all of the floating mechanism built in. But cleverly, there is an external adjustment for raising and lowering the water level. On the side of the tube, there are slots and raised dots on the lower tube. The upper tube has slots on the inside of it. There is a white locking tab between the two tubes. Here's how this one works: (Turn your water off first for adjusting this type). The tube is in two parts, an upper and lower tube. They are held in place by the locking tab, and by the slots cast into the two tubes (they intermesh) To adjust this type, you have to raise the lower portion of the locking tab to raise it off of the locking dots, and than revove it. Then, you push down slightly and twist the upper section to unlock it. Set the level higher or lower, twist the two parts back together, and reinsert the locking tab. The aim is to set the water level at the level mark on the tank. This type can be tricky; you'd do best to turn the water off to adjust this type, and turn it back on once you have locked it back in place.
Best regards, W/D