American Standard Home - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

very simple get to the wires that lead to the switch and jump them with a paper clip or alligator clip. its an open/close circuit based on resistance or no resistance there is nothing elecrtricre

Hello their is a product called Plasweld,it comes in a handy tube, Carefully scratch along the crack to allow the weld to come flush with the surface of the shower tray,MUST BE PERFECTLY DRY! squeeze into the crack and it will find its own level ,this produce actually welds the plastic together Good builders merchants should stock this item.GOOD LUCK

Put your hand around the back of the seat and you will feel the nuts. Tighten them by simply turning them.

They all work pretty much the same. Feel around the top rim of the bowl near where the tank meets the bowl you should find one bolt underneath on either side of the toilet seat. Tighten the nut under there to tighten the seat.

Adjusdt the float level, still same problwm replace fill valve assembly.

You have something in the blow stopping the waste from going down.

Adjust the float so water level stops at 1/2" below top of overflow pipe.

You need to replace the tank to bowl nuts, washers, and gaskets as well as the flush valve gasket. One word of caution. When installing the new bolts to hold the tank in, place a rubber gasket under the washer inside the tank, and also one on each bolt under the washer underneath the tank. If you omit the one under the tank you may end up cracking the tank when you tighten it down.

If you manually pull up on the float of the fill valve will it then shut off? If it does, most likely your water pressure is too high, should be around 60 psi. More then 80 and it won't shut off. You may need to add a restrictor to the fill valve. Most fluid-master units come with one already installed, you could try one of them.

If you;re sure its under the toilet, look for a crack in the base, especially around the retianing bolts, or the wax bowl seal is gone, needs replacing.

Either the flapper is not closing completely or the water level is too high so water runs out the overflow pipe. Level should be set at 1/2" below top of pipe.

Getting them off can be a real pain when they're corroded. Turn the nut under the tank and try holding the bolt head inside, it it spins or just strips, you will have to use a hacksaw blade between the tank and the bowl to cut them off. One word of caution, when you put in the new ones a rubber gasket goes in under the washer bolt head above and under the washer from below as well. If you only put one inside the tank, it won't leak, but you could crack the tank when you tighten it up. Also you should replace the flush valve gasket at the same time.

One of the rubber supports/holes is probably split, or you put in the wrong one..holes too big.

The older styles have a screw at the end of the shaft where the fill valve is, turn the screw in and out to adjust float arm level. Newer ones have a plastic nut and bolt about midway along the shaft. Turn the nut to loosen slightly, push the float up or down and tighten the nut. Caution: The plastic bolt breaks easily so don't tighten the nut too much.

Depends on type. Rubber ones usually are suspended from the seat by an arm on either side, you pull it off the arms and replace the same way. Older ones slide down over the overflow tube.

Adjust the level of the float, water level should be about 1/2" below top of overflow pipe. Slow filling can be due to a build up of calcium in fill vale, a partially blocked water valve, the washer many times gets deteriorated by the chlorine in the water, breaks up and clogs the fill line. Also many manufacturers (fluid-master in particular) place water restrictors inside the bottom of the fill tubes, which cause the water to fill much slower.

Make sure the water valve to the toilet is actually letting water into the fill valve. Turn off valve, remove from fill valve, run water into a pan to see pressure and confirm water flow. If water flow and pressure good, replace the fill valve.

Remove old by loosening nuts from under rear of seat and reinstall new seat in the opposite

There should be a allen wrench set screw under the handle at the bottom. just unscrew it and you should be able to work it off...hubby is a plumber

Try using one of these A product called Kaboom Bowel Blaster and let it sit in the bowl for a while, then brush clean. This worked for me when others failed. You can try muriatic acid as a toilet bowl cleaner.Again let it sit for a while then brush and flush available from places like Home depot.Sometimes the toilets are not glazed as well as they should be you might call it a defect I call it poor quality control.