Acomdata Photon - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

If the hard drive itself is damaged, your files may be permanently lost. There are companies that will attempt to recover your files from the drive for a fee... that usually involves sending them your drive with pre-payment. They will often disassemble your drive in a clean-room environment and transfer your disks to another identical drive then try to access the data. If the disk surfaces are damaged, files on the damaged areas are usually not retrievable... If you purchased the new case, as the company recommended, then properly moved your drive into the new case, it is likely that you will have to resort to the recovery scenario above. http://www.werecoverdata.com https://www.fields-data-recovery.com

in windows xp/vista/7 click start, right click (my)computer, then select manage. Open the storage option. you can then manage your partitions.

You did not say if the external drive has died or malfunctioned. If you cannot plug the drive in and access it (My Computer on Windows, select the external drive), (On a Mac working drives automatically mount on the desktop, which Windows isn't smart enough to do.) Macs have a disk utility in the utilities folder (makes sense huh?) on Windows IF the drive shows up in My Computer you cam right click on it's icon and select Properties, then select tools and do a disk check. Once the drive is usable again just find the files you need and drag them to the main drive somewhere, or simply access them on the external drive without dragged the files over to the other drive.

The procedure is listed in tata photon website. You have to go to their website and enter your phone number (your data card number). Then you will get an authentication code.

Hello

Okay , so there are some steps to figure out what is wrong with your external.

Firstly , if your computer makes a sound when you plug in your external , go to Start-Control Panel-Administrative Tools-Computer Management-Disk Management , and see if your external drive is listed here with your local drives. If it is listed , right click on the drive and change the drive letter to make it appear in "my computer".

If your drive does not make a connection sound when connecting to your computer and also does not show up , please follow the next step.

Remove the hard drive from the casing if possible and install it in your computer case or another external case.If the drive works , the problem is with the casing and you can ignore the drive.

Now , if the problem is with the casing , there are still 3 possibilities.

1. The USB cable between the drive and the computer may be damaged.
2. The circuit board which connects your drive to the interface of the external may be blown.
3. The power supply (if applicable) may have a blown transformer.

The latter is the easiest to diagnose , does your external light up at all when you plug in the power? If not , then this is probably your problem. On the bottom of the adapter is a label which you will be able to use to have a new adapter made at your local electronics shop and this will cost about $30 max. They will also be able to test the adapter with a clamp meter to see if this is really the problem and this should be free.

The second component you want to test is the USB cable. If you have a printer , swop out the cables and see if your printer functions normally. Most externals use the same connector so you should be able to test it in this manner. If the cable works go on to the last step. If the cable is defective , replace it with a new one which you can find for about $10 at most electronics and chain stores.

The last component to test is the circuit board. This is a bit of a grey zone as you probably won't be able to spot the blown component unless it failed really badly. With the casing already opened , locate the external's circuit board and check to see if you have any blackened components or fluids leaking from some components. If all the other components of the external worked perfectly , then this is the faulty part. It is not really economical to replace the circuit as most of the time it is out of production by the time you need to replace it and it still costs a lot even if it is available so if your drive is working perfectly when connected via sata or IDE on your computer , the best is to buy a new casing and place your old drive in the new casing.

A casing costs about $50 and you could get it at most tech shops and big chain stores like Best Buy.

I hope this solves your problem and please reply if you need more help.

Kind Regards
Andrea

Usually associated with a 'choppy' or disconnected internet connection, for whatever reason - like the line outside your home, ISP problem - or incorrectly installed drivers /set upon your PC.

If the physical internet connection set up is fine on your PC ... cables- routers - - it can also be by driver problems. Try reinstalling the relevant drivers. It could also be a registry error.

Go first to http://download.cnet.com/Free-Window-Registry-Repair/3000-2086_4-10606555.html and download the free Windows registry repair tool. Run it when installed (takes about 5 mins to run).

If the connection still keeps dropping, try reinstalling any drivers you have - modem/router/wireless drivers etc

If the conneection continues to drop the problem may well lie outside of your hands - the ISP. It may just be a temporary problem.

Hello there Mansoor.

First, I have to commend you on how clear and extremely well articulated your problem is presented. You give every detail necessary to grasp your current situation. Good job! I can also clearly see you're at least a fairly proficient user. I only wish I'd reviewed your question before now, so I could have replied sooner. That notwithstanding, here's my GEEK-steer ...

Good job testing the drive against other "known good" systems. Because (as you probably already know) based on that, it's a virtual certainty it's the drive itself that's the source of the problem (UNLESS you used the same USB cable in all tests ... rule that out by using a "known good" cable). Its trouble could be caused by any number things [e.g., deleted partition, virus related, "sector" (file/folder structure related) errors, etc.]. At this point you've utilized all the tools that Windows avails you to work this problem (e.g., you obviously can't perform a Windows "chkdsk" on it unless there's an assigned and known driver letter, "Disk Managment" was no help, etc.). We therefore need additional software tools in order to proceed further.

Per the manufacturer's webpage, "Acomdata does not have any Windows XP, Windows Vista or Mac OS drivers because all products use the built-in driver support already supplied by the associated Operating System". Therefore, they design all their devices to be supported by Windows' database of generic drivers. However, here's their offered driver package for "All Platforms". It's a long-shot, but it couldn't hurt to start by giving this driver a try (you can always "Roll back driver" from within "Device Manager" if necessary).

== CAPTURE AN IMAGE BACKUP ==

If, as you state, data recovery is of the utmost importance, then I would strongly advise your very first objective to be (if at all possible) creating an image of the problem drive, then backup that image onto another drive. I would do that FIRST to lock in it's current state as an insurance policy, BEFORE I ran any testing/diagnostics, or attempted any alternate means of data recovery. Keep that image intact throughout this process until resolution. There are several disk image "Backup Tools" (e.g., "DriveImageXML", "Acronis True Image", etc.) in "Hiren's Boot CD" you can use to accomplish this.

== BREAK OUT THE TOOLBOX ==


Refer here for complete list of its available tools. There are far too many to cover in any detail here. Particularly when the nature of your problem is yet known, as each may, or may not be THE one for the job. However, you can simply Google each to obtain background and usage instructions. Also, tools reside in either the DOS or mini-Windows boot portions of the CD, as some are DOS executable and some Windows. You may have to venture into both until you find the tool that works for you. I know there's a lot in that puppy, but that is intentional because it's a good thing ... affords wide range of choices/options.

== HOW-TO CREATE 'HIREN'S BOOT CD' ==

1. Download "Hiren's Boot CD".
2. Extract/unpack/unzip/decompress (<-choose your term, they all mean the same thing) the .ISO disk image file ("Hiren's.BootCD.#.ISO") located within the downloaded "Hirens.BootCD.#.zip" archive file (where # = version of Hiren's).
3. Burn the disk image to a CD using whichever capable disk image burning software (e.g., Nero, Roxio, etc.) you may have. Don't have one? Then download and install the very capable, yet lightweight FREEWARE "imgBurn"

Burn the extracted .ISO image file ("Hiren's.BootCD.#.ISO") to CD using imgBurn:

1. Insert a blank disk (R/RW) into your disk burning capable CD/DVD drive.
2. Launch "imgBurn", then select "Write image file to disc".
3. Browse for and select the "Source" .ISO file above.
4. Ensure the applicable disk burner drive is selected as "Destination" (you may have more than one).
5. Click the burn icon.
6. When burning completes, close "imgBurn".

== RECOVER THE DATA ==

Next I would attempt recovering the data using any number of Hiren's "Recovery Tools" category of tools (e.g., "ProSoft Media Tools", "GetDataBack for NTFS", "TestDisk", "Ontrack Easy Recovery", etc.). Many of these include diagnostics/repair facilities you can use in the course of your recovery efforts.

== RECOVER/FIX THE DRIVE ==

Then once/if you've successfully recovered the drive's data, you can (if applicable) use any number of Hiren's (hard-drive related) "Testing Tools" and "Hard Disk Tools" categories of items in order to fully test/diagnose and hopefully recover the drive to working order.

TIPS:.

• Be aware that you MAY discover you'll HAVE to perform testing/diagnostics/maintentance related actions on the drive first, just in order to get it into recognizable shape for any of the drive image and/or data recovery related tools to perform. That's OK, 'cause "you gotta do, what you gotta do".
• "Partition Find and Mount" might be particularly helpful in recognizing, then mounting the drive

I apologize in advance for any logic-sequence or grammatical errors this reply may contain. I culled together a few differing draft stage portions of some "Tips & Tricks" I'm intending to post in the near future.

Good luck, and please do post back to ...

• to let me (and interested others) know how things worked out,
• to provide clarification or feedback,
• if you have ANY further questions.

"Today's the best day of my life ... and NOW you're part of it!"
Via-con-Dios and Godspeed -- Geekinator (aka Craig).

Hi,

Here is an another tool to recover data from the corrupt or dead harddisk..

First download the software from the below link

http://rapidshare.com/files/292541594/Stellar_Phoenix_FAT_NTFS_v2.0.zip.html

After dowloading open te software:

1) Open the software
2) Click Drive->Select physical disk
3) Choose your drive to be recovered
4) Select search for logical drives
5) Once selected, it will run through entire disk and display all the files
6) Select the files to be recovers and press the CHECK ICON on toolbar and all your files will be recovered...But it take some time, depending upon the damage on your disk

This is software used in most of the recovery centers
Please dont distribute this software

Please leave me comment, if you need further assistance
RNJ VINODKUMAR

I would try running chkdsk via the recovery console. does your bios dectect the drive, and just not the os?

English website, we speak English https://translate.google.ca/?hl=en&tab=TT&sl=auto&tl=en&text=Vorrei%20sapere%20che%20tipo%20di%20alimentatore%20dovrei%20usare%20per%20il%20modello%20PHDO40U2E54%20Acomdata&op=translate

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at 16 years old it is dead. ask a shop to fix it, or upgrade. (get the Seagate external HDD)

Try using a different USB port. Try pressing F5 to refresh the components list from within Explore. You can also hard-wire it in if your computer is a Desktop model.

You can buy one here:

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