I have a 1991 40 gl and it fell through the floor which is like 2 ft off the ground. turned the water off and replaced the pipes it has its own lever type power supply with the screw in fuses 30 amp (2) of them. I have pushed the reset button don't know if it reset or not I still don't here anything from it. I fixed the ground wire on the top of the tank as it had come off when it fell. I don't have any pressure from hot or cold water anywhere in my house. would the elements cause this problem? I won't replace them unless that is the only suggestion. None of my pipes are leaking either. Don't know what else to.

If tank is rusted out, then that is caused by depleted anode rod, or tank that is not electrically grounded on hot side pipe.
If pipe nipple is rusted out, then that can be caused by improper connection between copper and galvanized pipes, and caused by non-grounded hot water pipes.

If tank is leaking, replace it.
If nipple is leaking, remove with pipe wrench, apply teflon tape or joint compound on threads, and install new nipple. Replace anode rod if possible. Correct copper-galvanized connections. Add ground wire between hot and cold pipes.

http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

82V52-2 is typical 240Volt 50-gallon electric water heater.
Water heater has to be full of water before turning on power.
This is true for gas and electric water heater.

Once water pipes are connected, you are ready to fill tank.
Turn on cold water shut-off so water enters tank.
Open bathtub spigot on hot side.
When tank is full, water comes out of tub spout full stream.
Let the water run until there is no more air coming out.
Next, open TP lever on water heater for a moment, and this will bleed out last pocket of air.
TP valve is located on upper part of tank, on the side or on top. It is a brass valve with silver-colored lever. Lift lever for a moment and water will exit tank down the overflow tube.
Water heater is full.
Turn on 240Volt circuit breaker going to water heater.

Other links with electric water heater information:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-drain-valve.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html#cleanelectric
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

Ask the plumber who did the mods. to come a check that he hasn't crossed a hot/cold pipe. Really sounds like he has, this would cause hot water to mix with cold. Is the water hotter further away from where he did his work? This would be a clue. Easy way to check is to turn off the water to the hot water system, should be a valve on the middle pipe going in to the heater. This should turn off all water to all your hot taps. If you still have water at any hot tap or shower then the pipes have been crossed.

Hot water pressure relief valves serve two functions. The first is to remove high-pressure water from the hot water tank. The second function is to act as a high temperature valve to remove water that exceeds a predetermined point for the valve. Both of these relief settings are preset at the valve factory. Many pressure relief valves will come with a metal tag that identifies these release points. If you're attempting to remove the hot water heater pressure relief valve, pay careful attention to ensure that you replace with the correct valve.

Your hot water heater has a pressure relief valve safety mechanism. When pressure inside the water tank exceeds certain limitations, the valve opens up to allow the pressure to be released. A faulty pressure relief valve will not release excess pressure, which could cause extensive damage to your home. You should test the hot water heater pressure relief valve once every six months to ensure proper operation. If the pressure relief valve fails the test, replace the valve with a new one immediately

Locate the pressure relief valve on your hot water heater. The pressure relief valve has a lever handle on top with a drain pipe attached to it. The pressure relief valve is most often on the side of the water tank toward the top. Newer models of hot water heaters have the pressure relief valve on top of the water tank.

Inspect the area around the pressure relief valve for signs of leaking water. If there is leaking water near the relief valve connection, replace the relief valve. If no leaking is evident, proceed with testing the pressure valve.

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Examine the area below the pressure relief valve drain pipe. Most water heater closets either have a drain in the floor below the pipe or the pipe is inserted into another pipe to direct the water out of the home. If the end of your drain pipe is not in another pipe or there is no drain in the floor, place a bucket under the drain pipe to catch water when you test the pressure relief valve.

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Pull the lever handle on the top of the pressure relief valve up with your fingers. A working lever will lift up without difficulty.You should begin to hear water going through the drain pipe. Slowly release the lever to shut off the pressure relief valve. The pressure relief valve is good. If you did not hear water running through the drain pipe, lower the lever on the pressure relief valve and replace the valve. If the lever is difficult to raise, do not force the lever. Replace the pressure relief valve.

Now with all that said if you have a closed loop water supply system and you have a pressure vessal/expantion tank it may have gone bad and is making the TP valve leak. you can call your water provider to see if you have closed loop system.

Water heater should be set in a drip pan.
Otherwise, put 1 gallon bucket under TP release pipe to catch water.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-at-bottom-of-water-heater.html#drip-pan

When you say relief valve, I assum you are talking about brass valve located on top of tank or near top of tank. This is TP valve and a pipe connects to this valve and runs down to within 6" of bottom of tank. TP valve has a small lever on it.
If you are talking about tank drain valve located at bottom of tank, then add a comment.
Following information is for TP valve.

Dripping TP valve can be caused by 3 different thing:

1) Obstruction inside TP valve. Open TP valve for a moment to flush away particles and slowly lower lever back down. See if water stops dripping, if not, then replace TP valve

2) Defective TP valve: replace TP valve. Turn off electricity to water heater. Let heater cool for several hours so you do not get scalded. Close shut off valve located above tank on cold side. Open tub spout to relieve pressure, open tank drain or open TP valve and empty water below TP valve level. If TP is located on top of tank, not much water has to be drained. Tank is under press when hot, so be careful. Put teflon tape on new valve and install with big pipe wrench by turning clockwise until TP valve is very tight.

3) Overheating tank. TP valve is temperature-pressure valve. If tank water is over 150 degrees, the TP valve starts drizzling hot water to relieve tank pressure.
Lower tank pressure two different ways:
a) turn down thermostat
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-water-heater-temperature.html
b) install expansion tank on incoming cold water line
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-at-bottom-of-water-heater.html#expansion-tank

Hello Put a bucket under the relief valve and lift the lever up and snap it closed.Maybe it is not seated correctly.If not change it out.Also if the new one acts up you need a cold(domestic)water expansion tank(EXTROL) in the cold water pipe.

sounds like your pressure relief is leaking. Make sure your home water pressure isn't abnormally high (above 80 psi). As long as your water pressure is fine, you should replace the pressure relief.

Check releif valve and make sure it is not running out of it. Sounds like the releif valve may be bad.

It's on the side of the water heater with a lever on it they are for safety reasons, they go bad from time to time. It may be piped through floor to a drain or outsude.

It can be if it keeps boiling the water. Your tank will have a pressure relief valve with a copper pipe dropping down near the floor...is there signs of water coming out of the pipe? Be certain it is working by testing it...lift the lever in the center of the relief (Place a bucket under the pipe first to catch the water that will flow out). Over time these valves can rust up and not work.

In the worst case, boiling the water causes steam build up in the tank which is under pressure. Enough steam can cause the tank to rupture and that is a bad thing.

I am not certain but you probably need a new temperature probe if the tank is over heating the water inside.

You have clearly lost your ground due to PVC. One solution would be to run copper ground wire from the hot water tank to the metal splice on each end of the PVC. It is not necessary to go all the way back to the breaker box.