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I believe that you are referring to the small yellow ceramic capacitors on the amplifier boards that tend to short out. Below I have pasted a link to a forum thread that contains the information you are looking for as well as some great pictures of what you should see. The driver IC that you are referring to I am guessing is the STA575 amplifier chips which are located on the amplifier boards attached to heat sinks. One board has 2 of them the other has 3.
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Since that I have not schematic diagram of your tv... I cannot figured you out the exact part number of those components that caused the problem, but the possible reason why the fuse are always blown when you turned on the unit? because there are some bad filter capacitor, rectifier diodes and power IC regulator in primary power circuit section.
Replace capacitors CX2105 (35 volts 220 Mf), CX2110(35 volts 100Mf), C2104 (50 volts 1 Mf), resolder resistors RX2115, RX2116,R2118,R2119. You will need to also resolder the vertical IC. I think this IC location is IC 2200, its been sometime since I repaired this one.Do not short the pins together with excess solder. The values on the cap may not be exact. Please use the cap value that is removed (remove and replace one at a time). The locations will be correct! This will remove the horizontal lines or bars across the TV screen. You may as well replace capacitors in the horizontal deflection area. By now you have bad caps there. The locations and values are, CX3218 (160 volts 2.2Mf), CX3205 (16 volts at 100 Mf) CX3413 (50 volts 22 Mf) and CX3416 (25 volts 100Mf). Thanks for asking and show all hands of support.
You will have to search for a TV repair shop, and see if they have another 45" Mitsubishi TV of the same model, or close. You may be able to get a replacement screen from salvage. As for the vertical hold, in some cases you may believe the vertical IC is at fault (we will come back to this), may be not. The first suspicion is in the signal board. The signal board is the board with all the RCA jacks and RF connections. Pull this board out and replace Capacitor (location C2V29) this is a 16 volt 22Mf capacitor. Also replace C2P05 which is a 16 volt 100 Mf cap. This will correct your vertical problem. If you can find an ESR meter, I would certainly check all the capacitors in the signal board. You will find several weak capacitors to replace. The two already mentioned are extremely weak or bad. As for the other board (power supply) you may have to resolder the pins on the vertical IC. It will be located on the corner of the board. I do not remember the location. It is mounted on a heat sink, the vertical IC will have a number such as LA78XX. (LA7838, not sure). Resolder the pins on this IC and check the capacitors in and near this IC. I have not received much problems with this power supply. As always, inspect both boards for bad solder grounds and resolder as necessary! Thanks for asking and show all hands of support!
For the above LCD Monitor, I actually saw a small spark at the top part
of the main board once the power input jack was connected. It prompted
me to the exact location and when I check the SMD ceramic capacitor
(that generated the spark underneath it) with analog meter set to X 10
K ohm range; it actually developed a slight short circuit. Replacing
only the fuse and the SMD ceramic capacitor solved the no power problem
in this 19" LCD Monitor. This Monitor uses the inverter IC (OZ960G),
A1084-25CM (2.5 volts voltage regulator), AMC1117-3.3 (3.3 volts
voltage regulator), ADC IC (MST8136B) and CPU IC (MYSON MTV312MV64).
For LG DU-37LZ30 specifically - On the power supply board, look for IC101, an 8-pin DIP IC. There will be three smaller electrolytic capacitors near it (C107, C113 and C125) marked 47uF, 35V. I'm being lazy here, but replace all three (only one is the real culprit). What is happening is that one of these caps is charged by line voltage until the IC (power supply controller) can start running. When this capacitor gets leaky, it cannot reach the proper voltage to start the controller. I used a 47uF, 50V replacement. I have fixed two LG sets with this same problem. The other was a 26". It's a cheap fix!
This is a vertical deflection problem, These are the possible causes:
1) bad vertical coupling capacitor 2) bad vertical output IC 3) bad vertical driver IC 4) bad CRT deflection yoke
Troubleshooting needed: 1) using the TVs schematic locate the driver IC the output IC and the CRT yoke transformer. 2) using an oscilloscope look at the vertical driver signal it should be a sawtooth signal from the driver to the yoke (increasing in amplitude for each section, i. e. driver and output). 3) if no sawtooth patter is seen that is your problem, look for the component in the section where signal is entering but nothing is coming out. 4) replace the components
Now let me tell you something, don't continue to play the TV with the line present with brightness applied, this will burn the image of the line into the phosphorous coating of the CRT.
once the caps blow they usually take out the driver ic too. check across your power to the amp with ohmmeter when you find the issue it will drop to around 20 ohms in one direction.
The STK ICs are located on the D board their locations are IC801 and IC 802 they are both STK392-560 and you will only have to remove the D board. Usually only 1 or 2 resistors go bad right next to the ICs heatsink. You can get replacements at the following link and they include installation instruction plus free tech support heres the link. http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/
std by light is on?means red light is on.If not than check fuse,vdr,and regulator ic in power unit.if fuse is open than change these component because fuse will blow if the regulator ic is faulty.
Your link wont let me view the site because you swear too much
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