Front burner on Al00 cartridge shot fire out and quit heating. decided to replace the block termnial and buy new wiring. put all back together and still have same problem. front burner has no juice coming to it.

I took the cooktop apart I removed the terminal from the main electronic board . The left front burner has 2 white wires and 2 yellow (my case). The 2 white wires lead to the RTD sensor.With an electric meter set on OHMS check continuity between the two wires leading to the RTD sensor .If the reading is more than 1030 ohms is good if not than you need to replace the whole burner that comes as a complete unit with sensor and ribbon heating element.I found it on line for $114.00 +shipping.I wish they sold only the sensor but it would've been too cheap and not worth it for the makers . All connections to that burner are very easy put back together . Some suppliers may ask for as much as $175-$195 for the complete unit .

You may already be aware of this but ... If our ilve ceran cooktop is the same as yours turn the knob past the 12 setting till you feel pressure and it springs back. This is the switch to fire up the marked outer elements.

Hello,

The problem is going to be that the switch that turns on the spark for that front burner is defective and that switch needs to be replaced. To replace the switch on that cooktop which splis over the gas valve for that burner is remove all knobs and remove the face plate over all the burner valves, the switch slides off of the burner valve and the wires to it just slip onto the new switch,the part number for that switch is Y704512 it could be purchased at your local appliance partstore or online at;
apdepot.com
partselect.com
apwagner.com
repairclinic.com
applinacepartspros.com


before attempting any repair on the cooktop be sure to disconnect power and turn off gas supply

GENE

I have the same issue.

Usually this is the two gas valve solenoids, though it can also be a bad flame sensor or thermo. The solenoids are easy to change, they are right in front and usually have two screws holding them down. Order new solenoids by model number. Once you have the new ones you will see how they look and where they go on your gas burner. Just make sure you make not of the wire positioning and install the new ones the same way. Usually 3 wires on one side and two wires on the other. Parts are pretty cheap. Before I replace these I put an electrical testor on the solenoids to test if there is 120 volts coming in when the burner stops working. If their is 120 volts and the ignitor is glowing then you definitely have bad solenoids. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists.

The switch for the burner is bad and needs to be replaced.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/steven_a67ead41eb5fc62a

Sounds like you have cartridge fuses in your house. When only one is blown it can cause interesting results. The clock is probably feeding back through the burner. This lets enough electricity through to run the clock and othe small things but not enough for heat. Have all the cartridge in your house tested. I'll bet either one of the mains or range ones are bad.

Sounds like water got into one of the switches. This usually happens when you wash the knobs. Water stays in the holes and runs down the shaft when replaced. Maytag has issued a recall on some stoves because this can be a fire hazard. UNPLUG THE COOKTOP UNTIL THIS IS FIXED!!!!!!!!! This has happened to me with a whirlpool unit and it tripped a breaker and shot sparks across the kitchen. First go to Maytags web site and see if yours has a recall. If so Maytag will fix it free. While you are waiting leave stove unplugged and light with a match. If you need to fix this yourself disconnect the wires from the two switches this should stop the sparking. Connect one switch at a time and see which switch is bad. Most of the time the electric part of the gas valve can be replaced seperately. and you can do this yourself. If you must actually disconnect a gas pipe unless you really know what you are doing call for service.

I'm having the same problem with my jec9530. The dual burner just quit working one day. I called jennair and they sent me a replacement "custom control" for free. 6 months later it quit again. I am now considering attempting to put an infinite switch (dual), part #PS786568 in its place. It is not electronic, and it looks like it is used for the jec9536 middle back dual burner. It is only $35, even if it doesn't work like the electronic one I don't care. My wife usually only uses both burners at the same time anyway.

Smalltree, You may want to make sure that they have 220 wired to the cooktop. I've seen a lot of new construction where they are hooking the cooktops up to 120V and wondering why they're not working. Check this first and post back..Catriver.