New amana refer worked when first plugged in, blew out really cold air, checked again in about five hours,warm air. warm air since.

There are plenty of reasons this could happen like the following: PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE Loud operating sound level • See "Sound Information" section for explanation of normal operating sounds Freezer too warm. Compressor not operating • Freezer temperature set too warm • Defective compressor • Defective overload or relay Refrigerator too cold • Refrigerator temperature set too cold • Chefs Pantry control set too cold or misaligned allowing freezer air to escape into refrigerator section • Freezer temperature set too cold • Restricted condenser air • Refrigerant shortage or restriction • Refrigerant overcharge Freezer too warm. Compressor cuts off on overload • Heavy usage • High ambient • Restricted condenser air • Defective condenser fan motor • Loose or missing condenser fan blade • Improper voltage • Defective relay or overload • Compressor motor winding • Non-condensibles in system • Refrigerant overcharge Freezer too warm. Compressor operating • Freezer temperature set too warm • Restricted condenser air • Defective condenser fan motor • Opened door • Heavy usage • Defective freezer fan motor • Opened defrost thermostat • Opened defrost heater • Loose or missing freezer or condenser fan blade • Heavily frosted evaporator • Refrigerant shortage or restriction • Inefficient compressor Refrigerator too warm • Refrigerator temperature set too warm • Freezer temperature set too warm • Return air or air supply duct blocked • Chefs Pantry control set too warm or air supply tube blocked • Heavy usage • High ambient Problem Possible Cause Freezer too cold • Freezer temperature set too cold Long off cyde • Low ambient • Freezer temperature set too warm Short off cycle • Heavy usage • High ambient • Freezer temperature set too cold • Light constantly on • Poor door gasket seal Long or continuous run cyde • Heavy usage • High ambient • Inadequate condenser air flow • Freezer temperature set too cold • Loss or restricted refrigerant Short run cycle • Light usage • Low ambient • Freezer temperature set too warm Exterior cabinet condensation • High humidity. Design accepts beads of water on cabinet exterior after 4 hours with 0° to 2°F (-18° to -17°C) freezer food temperature and 38° to 40°F (3° to 4°C) refrigerator food temperature in 84% R.H. conditions. See "Typical Sweat Pattern" section under above conditions. • Freezer temperature set too cold • Poor door gasket seal • Insulation void

You have a serious short circuit, I suggest you call for a service technician

It's time to call a professional. Call the manufacturer and ask them who they recommend in your area. Note :Some questions can be answered if you put enough information such as brand and model number.

Sounds like a fan clutch problem or ??
Can you drive it and when it quits cooling check and see if the compressor is still running ?

Hi,
It could be either....
It is best to check and see if you are getting power to the fan...power to fan, the fan is bad...no power the board is bad...

heatman101

you will need to defrost it. the freezer is what keeps your fridge cool. the vent where the cool air goes up to your fridge is sealed or frozen.
unplug the fridge and open the doors and let it defrost.
plug it back in after a few hours and it should be working again.

Either the start relay and start capacitor or the Adaptive Defrost control is burned out. If you have a voltage meter we can test a few things like the compressor and the capasitor. The part number for the Adaptive defrost is 241508001 and found inside the fresh food compartment behind the control panel. I can help you locate the problem if you like. Let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Most likely evaporator coils are iced near solid...few hours unplugged would have helped just a little...needs major defrosting though.
The automatic defrost cycle will never fix it when it gets this bad...if it's still working yet.

I have one of these and have had to use heat gun/ hair dryer more than once to defrost it.

Probably the cause...which will need fixed or it will do it again sooner or latter...is the melted frost/ice goes down a little drain tube and dumps into tray to evaporate above coils...this tube gets plugged first with dust and then when melted frost drains and stands in tube the tube get plugged with frozen water.

You see it is important to unplug or fridge will self destruct.

Chances are if they are getting cool but not cold-

1) the evaporator fan in the freezer is not running
2) Defrost heater has failed
3) Defrost sensor has failed
4) Defrost timer/refrigerator control has failed.

Check for ice build-up on the back wall of the freezer. If there is ice, unplug or turn the unit off for 6-8 hours with the doors open (put any food in a cooler with ice to maintain). Note water may come out of the refrigerator.
Plug the unit back in or turn it back on, close the doors, and check temperature after a couple of hours of operation. If all OK, you will need to have the above tested, or, if you know how to use a multimeter and can read a schematic/wiring diagram, I can instruct you on how to check the above.

If the fan is still working (and it sounds like it is, then the evap coils are frozen up. A typical failure is the defrost bi-metal t-stat but I've also seen LOTS of the adaptive defrost circuit boards fail on this model. I would lean toward the circuit board first as the culprit. See part 711 http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/32266.gif http://www.partselect.com/xq/aspx/Inventory.51814/qx/PartDetail.htm?SourceCode=5&ModelNum=ARSE66MB