Gemini FX 7000 DSP effects no longer working, aparently a blown i.c, but which one?

usb b is for streaming digital media,not memory sticks,

• High-power dual DSP engine with improved digital effects and output processing including Feedback Ferret®, 28-band GEQ/5-band PEQ, delay and limiter
• USB 2.0 "A" connection to record directly to or playback from memory stick
• USB 2.0 "B" connection for streaming digital out
• 3-band EQ with sweepable mid-frequency and variable low cut filters
• 2 stereo channels with dual mic/line inputs
• 48 volt phantom power
• 6 Aux sends
• 4 subgroups
• 100mm faders
• Double the processing power of the original FX Series
• All new switching power supply design is more efficient than the original
• Silencer™ mic preamp XLR inputs
• Weight Packed: 45.00 lb(20.412 kg)
• Width Packed: 25"(63.5 cm)
• Height Packed: 36"(91.44 cm)
• Depth Packed: 11.5"(29.21 cm

• Owner's Manual
• FX™2 Mixer Series
• Cut Sheet

The last knob on the right should give 16 different effects, are you saying the knob doesn't work at all? Is it turning smoothly? Do you hear any clicks as you turn it? Is anything plugged into the dsp socket on the back where the footswitch would go?

Can you elaborate? What do you want to connect it to?

I'm having the same problem with the same PreAmp. Gemini PA-7000

Don't even think of using a universal adapter !!! I could not find the schematic of this unit, but other Gemini mixers like this use center tapped AC power transformers. Any universal adapter will be DC, not AC. I have found that the FX7000 indeed uses an 18 VAC adapter... Try this as a source:

http://www.topdjgear.com/gemini-110vac18v.html

You CAN'T send ANYTHING to microphones since they are INPUT devices.

If you want apply effects to the audio coming FROM them then this is what you do:

Adjust the trim and faders for normal use and verify the mics are working.

NOW for those mics you want to put effects on, turn the knob labled "FX" above EACH mic FADER that you want effects on... it will be the orange topped ones... about the fourth one up ablve the PAN and the two MON knobs. Adjust these to send each mic into the effects mixing buss. Start by setting them at 12 o'clock. You will use these to proportion the amount of effects applied to individual mics.

Next, advance the FX fader/slider to around the Unity mark... this controls the amount of the FX mix buss goes into the FX processor.

Next adjust the knob above the MAIN fader that says FX to Main. This controls the amount of the FX that is sent into the MAIN mix buss...

We are almost there... Select the effect you want with the effect knob to the number of the effect you want... it will be blinking AFTER a change... the effect will NOT have changed yet... WHEN you want the effect to take effect, PRESS DOWN on the effect knob and the effect number will stop blinking and you now have the effects on those mics... ADJUST the three level things... the knbs under each channel to proportion between the mics... adjust the FX fader for the USUAL control of effect amount... and finally the FX to main knb to set the limit of the effect going to the MAINS.

It sounds like the DSP processor is either about to go out, or is mostly there. Have a qualified amplifier technician take a look at the DSP. Also look up the cost of a new one.

Hope that helps!

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/cameron_463100ffd54b591d

If other lights are on, I have seen a case where the display does not light for a time, especially if it is cold. The gas in the display takes some time to light up like some neon bulbs... the effects should still work, you just can't see the display. Usually the display will eventually come on after a few minutes after being off for long periods. Sometimes one can encourage the display by external radiation such as a cell phone in close proximity.

See if the FX input indicator is functioning.

If the electronics of the DSP/FX is dead, troubleshooting it is not a DIY unless you have special test equipment. The unit uses two 57002 DSP's controlled by an 80C32 micorprocessor. Beyond checking that the 80C32 is operating and busses have activity, you probably won't be able to do any fruitfull troubleshooting

If NO lights come on in this unit, then the power supply has fried and you don't want that as it is likely caused by the rear power amp arcing out.. Lots of work to repair. Since rest is working this is not the case with yours. ALWAYS be careful to insure speaker leads are solid with this amp as an intermitent lead can blow this amp easily.

Behringer does not release their schematics to non-agents...

When you are changing the DSP effect on the fly, static or noise is NORMAL !!! The DSP is changing the data and having to recalculate on the fly and doesn't mute itself while doing so which results in "garbage sounds out".

The bypass setting should NOT get any tone UNLESS you have feedback going on. If your guitar can "hear" the speakers in the amp, the strings can vibrate and get feedback going.

Unplug the guitar and see if high freq tone is still there on bypass. If the tone is in the musical range, then there is a problem if nothing is plugged in. If it is a VERY weak, very high frequency tone, this may be the digitizing noise from the DSP. On bypass, the audio is likely to still go through the DSP, just not be modified by it.

This is a wild educated guess.

I repaired a Behringer guitar amp that had a DSP effects in it (BX1200 I believe).

The effects were on a seperate board and the board had its own 5 volt power supply. The filter capacitor for the 5 volt power on the board was UNDERSIZED and it had degraded causing the 5 volts to drop out of regulation, dipping to 4 volts. This caused the DSP effects to fail.

YOUR device MAY use the same DSP OR design.

Check the 5 volt power with an OSCILLOSCOPE to look for dips below the 5 volt operating point that occur at 120 HZ.