Just received a thermocast sink (kitchen) but it was shipped with one hole andI need four. can I drill holes or should I ship this back?

Drill a small hole 1/8 to 1/4 inch in the medal of the knockouts and and use a taperd punch., put it in the hole and hit it with a hammer.
Be gentle and good luck.

A Master Collection designer Thermocast cast acrylic double bowl kitchen sink with a rich high gloss finish that is easy to clean with non-abrasive cleaners.

1. 1

   Put on rubber gloves. Spray the sink with a nonabrasive commercial kitchen cleaner, covering all surfaces of the sink with the spray.
   

2. 2

   Dampen a sponge in warm water. Wipe the sponge over the sink, scrubbing at any visible dirt.
   

3. 3

   Rinse the sink with warm water and then dry it with a clean towel.
   

4. 4

   Fill the sink with warm water and add 1 tsp. of chlorine bleach per gallon of water, once a month. This will sanitize the sink, and is recommended by Thermocast. Let the bleach-water mixture remain in the sink for 15 minutes, then drain the sink. Rinse.
   

5. 5

   Apply liquid automotive polish to a clean, soft cloth. Wipe the cloth over the sink to remove any scratches that may have occurred. Buff the sink using a circular motion. Rinse.
   

Abrasive cleaners may scratch Thermocast sink surfaces--using abrasive cleaners may also void the warranty.

On all the composite lav. or kitchen counter top materials that I'm aware of you can drill holes as needed using hi-speed bi-metal hole saws.My advice is to just go slow to make sure you start straight and be extra careful when the hole saw is finishing hole to avoid rough edges. I hope this helps you. Thanks. It would be a good idea to wear a dust mask to avoid inhale dust.

Do NOT try to knock them out! The correct way is to drill them out as needed for your particular faucet. Refer to your installation instructions for your faucet to determine which holes need to be drilled out. There is a school of thought that it is best to drill them all and use a hole cover on those you don't use since once the sink is installed you will no longer be able to drill them at exactly factory locations.

You will need a 1-3/8" hole saw (my preference is Lenox brand # 30022), an arbor (a special drill bit for the hole saw Lenox brand # 2L), and preferably a varible speed drill.

Turn your sink upside down and place onto a clean padded surface to protect the finish and is also a padding that you can bear to throw away. Locate the center of the hole to be drilled. If there is no dimple from the manufacturer at dead center, you will have to give it your best guess. Mark that spot and with the arbor securely mounted into the hole saw, begin drilling at 1/4 to 1/2 speed of the drill, until the tip of the arbor had drilled completely through. Remove the hole saw and turn the sink right side up. The hole that the arbor made in now called a pilot hole and will guide your hole saw perfectly. By drilling from the top side you eliminate any chipping. Insert arbor into the pilot hole and begin drilling using light to moderate pressure until the hole saw has drilled through. Be careful! As you sense you are nearly through the drilling, only use light pressure so you don't lose control of the drill when the saw pops through and accidentally smack your sink.

Hi,
Yes you can...
Use a good sharp hole saw like you would use for wood or metal...
It is best to drill the pilot hole with just the 1/4" pilot bit before you put the hole saw on and drill the big hole. Use patience and gentle pressure and you'll be through in a minute...

heatman101

Technically, you are suppose to have the clips holding the sink down. However, that is a pretty heavy sink you have. If you apply a clear tub/shower adhesive caulk around the opening for the sink, it will prevent the sink from shifting on you. Sometimes, as an added precaution, I will apply a second coat from underneath the sink after the first application has had time to cure. You will not have any problems in taking this approach to solve your problem. However, if you feel you absolutely need the clips, you can call Kohler to inform them that your sink did not come with these clips. It has been my experience that they will ship the clips out to you at n/c. Hope this helps.

Yes they do you can also get fill cap at hardware stores.

Acrylic sinks can stain too. I would go with a cast iron sink if you don't want to worry about stains. Acrylic sinks tend to scratch if your not careful.

Option 1 ; Cap off the sprayer.  Option 2 ; Relocate the air gap as high as possible under the sink but then you have no drain under it in case it backflows (it is really a vacuum breaker ,  one way check valve) Option 3: Take back the faucet and get one of those that the spout is also the sprayer.

A total of four shipping bolts need to be installed: two longer ones on the bottom and two shorter ones on the top. Each shipping bolt consists of a metal screw inside a plastic cylinder which fits between the washer suspension and the back of the washer cabinet. The metal screw pulls the washer suspension against the plastic cylinder which, in turn, is pulled against the rear cabinet, thereby securing the suspension against the back of the cabinet. The Whirlpool part number is 285955. These bolts can be ordered from various suppliers for $20 - $30. To install these bolts, you will need a 13 mm wrench and a flashlight so you can see where the bolts screw into on the washer suspension.

The procedure is as follows:
1. On the back of the washer, remove the 4 plastic covers over the oblong shipping bolt holes. Carefully pack these covers with the water and drain hoses as they will be needed when the washer is re-installed in its new location.
2. Using the flashlight as a visual aid, look inside the oblong holes and identify the area on the washer suspension into which the shipping bolts screw. It is a white plastic part that is not directly behind the the shipping bolt holes, but is slightly above that level.
3.Look at the shipping bolts. The bolts described above (Part number 285955) have a a plastic arm at one end . This arm must be sawed-off for installation on older machines. You will have to determine whether or not the arm needs to be removed.
4. Starting with the bottom two holes, carefully slide a shipping bolt through the hole toward the front of the machine. Angle the bolt upward toward the screw mating hole, and carefully guide the bolt into the hole. Use the 13 mm wrench to engage the bolt into the mating hole.
5. Make sure that the plastic end of the bolt is closely seated against the back of the washer cabinet. Using the 13 mm wrench, screw in the lower two bolts, but do not tighten at this time.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the upper two shipping bolts.
7. After the plastic part of all 4 bolts has been firmly seated against the back of the washer cabinet, carefully tighten all 4 bolts.
8. Go to the front of the washer and push on the drum. The drum will rotate but it should not rock. If that is the case, then you are done.