Should I be seeing a spark through the ventilation holes of my power drill or does this indicate it needs to be repaired?

If you are lucky, the spark plug was not tightened correctly and worked loose. In this case, you may be able to chase the threads and it will go back in and stay. Make sure the plug is installed correctly this time.

If you are unlucky, the threads will be stripped. In this case, you have 2 choices: thread repair or larger spark plug. Either way, you have to drill and tap the spark plug hole without getting any metal shavings in the cylinder. The main difference is that if you use a thread repair insert, the original spark plug size will fit in your engine; if you tap out the holewithout using an insert you will have to get a different spark plug for the cylinder that was repaired.

You can fabricate a tester from a 6 inch long mongol pencil. Sharpen one end and drill a 1/8" hole in the middle. Now remove the sparkplug wire from each sparkplug and insert the pencil onto the sparkplug wire with the dsharpened end connected or touching the ground or any metal part of the engine. Start your engine and you should see sparks jumping on the drilled hole on the pencil which indicates that your spark plug wire is okay.

The best way is to measure a bolt of the same size and pitch as was fitted in that threaded hole. The specs are the same for both eg M10 x 1.5 or whatever. Then you can take this info, or better, the bolt itself, along and buy a helicoil kit to suit.

If it is for a spark plug hole, they will know immediately on seeing one of your spark plugs (there are 2 main sizes). It is probably also on the back of the kit packet.


The other way is to drill and tap out the hole for a larger size screw or bolt than you had to begin with. Generally you would use a tap drill for the next larger standard size thread.

It was either loose or the thread has stripped. You will have to see if it will got back in and stay tight. I not then the plug hole will need repairs.
You should be able to get a false thread to repair the hole with, but it will require drilling out.

To set the timing on your 88 Evo powered FXR, you want to first identify the timing marks on the flywheel. Raise the rear wheel of your bike off the ground and secure it so that it won't fall over. Remove the spark plugs and shift the transmission into high gear. Remove the Timing Hole plug on the left side of the engine.

Now, to find the Top Dead Center mark, insert a plastic drinking straw, or something else that will bend but not break, into the front spark plug hole. With the straw touching the piston, "bump" the rear wheel in the normal direction of rotation until the straw indicates the piston is at TDC. Look in the timing hole and you should see a vertical line indicating TDC. Now, start "bumping" the rear wheel in reverse. You'll come to a mark that looks like the figure 8 laid over on it's side, a lazy 8. This is the 20?° Before Top Dead Center mark that is used by the dealer. Continue "bumping" the rear wheel until you see a "dot" on the flywheel. This is the Front Cylinder Advanced Timing Mark. This is the mark you want to see in the timing hole and represents 35?° BTDC.

Now, temporarily reinstall the timing plug leaving it loose. Shift the transmission into neutral and reinstall the spark plugs. Connect an automotive type timing light to the front spark plug wire and a battery. Start the engine and allow it to warm up a bit. Bring the engine up to 2200-2500 RPM. Remove the timing hole and shine the light in the hole. NOTE: A Harley engine generates a huge amount of crankcase pressure. This pressure will blow out of the open timing hole with great force and will also blow an oil mist out. DO NOT GET YOUR EYES DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF THE HOLE. You can purchase a clear timing plug to install in the hole but it doesn't work too well. Another device called "Clean Time" works better.

At 2500 or higher , the "dot" should be in the exact center of the hole. If it isn't, but you can still see it in the hole, you're within about plus or minus 2?° of being correct. If you need to adjust the timing, remove the cover over the timer cavity hole in the "nosecone" of the engine on the right side of the engine. If it's still got the original rivets in it, you'll have to drill them out. DO NOT USE ORDINARY RIVETS TO SECURE THE PLATE. These are special rivets. Either get replacements at a dealer or put screws into the plate. You'll see the timing sensor pickup and the plate it sits on. Loosen the stand off bolts and you can rotate the plate clockwise to advance the timing, counterclockwise to ****** the timing. If the "dot" is at the forward part of the hole, the timing is retarded and needs to be advanced. "Dot" to the rear, timing is advanced and needs to be retarded.

Now, if you cannot see the mark indicating that the timing is way off and you can't see the "dot", you'll need to use a timing light with a "manual advance knob" and use the TDC mark instead. Set the timing light's knob to 35?°. With the engine running at elevated RPM, shine the light at the hole. Adjust the knob back and forth until you see the TDC mark dead in the center of the hole. Read the dial at the knob and see what it indicates. This is your actual ignition timing. If it's above 35?°, your timing is fast and should be retarded and Vice versa. Your timing should be set at 35?° BTDC.

Good Luck
Steve

pull the kill wire off at the ignition coil - retest for spark , if now spark faultry kill wire or switch indicated
but if no spark fit spark tester in line with h t lead and spark plug

gap tester is basically a piece of wood with 20 mm hole in middle and a hole drilled through to centre from opposing sides
the a nail that fits firmly is pushed through 1 on each side
and meet in the middle of the hole , but the points of ecah nail must align together and be exactly no less than 6.00 mm apart from each other ( place the tester inline between h t lead and plug ) use whater adaption you may need to connect to the saw
and pull the engine over as you would

if all is well the spark should jump across this gap and the gap at the plug while under compression pressure

you will see it in the the tster window

if no spark coil is problem
replace coil and set air gap to 0.010" and refit wires ands covers

cheers hope it helps

pauly46

where do you live and where did you get the drill from are the voltage ratings the same

Depends what damage has been done to the motor. If the tool is still running but sparking you need to check what sort of sparks they are. Short fat blue sparks only going halfway round the commutator (brush end of motor/armature) then it is 90% probable that just your field coil assy is blown. If it is thinner, whitersparks going all the way around then it is the armature and possibly the field aswell. Another way to check is to remove the brushes via the covers on either side at teh bottom of the motor and check the contacting surface. If it is fairly shiney and polishe then there is little sparking and hopefully no cause for concern. If one or both is pitted and dull it has been sparking and burning. If one is shorter and darker than teh otehr this indicates a problem with the field coil. It isn't a massivly hard job to change the motor parts. If you need more advice let me know.

yes this is normal the spark keeps motor from stalling out by taking away the friction spark by making own spark
the clunk is the drill brake so you dont brake your hand when screw goes in all the way unlike old drills that kept going even when your hand was attached to it

chuck problem replace it,