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The cooling system is not blowing air into the fridge . there is no noise from the back of the fridge which i think boows air. the fridge temperature was coming down from 22 degrees, went to 5 degress and is now going up again because the cooling system was working for a few hours and now isnt
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Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly. Step 1 - Find the Problem
Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:
* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly. * Evaporator fan - Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches). * Air damper - Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section. * Condenser coils - Check to see that the condenser coils don't have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working. * Compressor - Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.
Step 2 - Frost-Free Failure
This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover. Step 3 - Find the Timer
When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer. Step 4 - Volt Test
If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven't got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.
If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.
Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn't work.
A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.
This has to do with the diffuser that lets the cool air into the fridge side not opening or the fan in the freezer not turning on to blow the cool air into the fridge. For ferther detail on how to perform repair please reply.
I dont think the coolant is boiling, I think you have an air bubble in your system wich is causing a air lock and youll need it flushed out. Your reservior cap should be tight always.. never loose this is an air tight system and your allowing it to get air in it. I have a 2002 linc ls and just had to pay 1000.00 to replace the system because I let an air lock go for too long and had so much back pressure I blew up my reservior.
Some fridges only cool the freezer and an evaporator fan motor moves cool air from the freezer to the fridge side. If this fan doesn't spin very freely then it may need to be replaced. You should also pull out the fridge and see where the drain hose is connected to the inside of the fridge, try pouring hot water down the hose to see if it is open. It may be clogged with a pea or some food or frozen. If your fridge is really full, make sure there is nothing in front of where the evaporator fan blows air into the fridge. Make sure that the adjuster flap is open in the fridge section.
most common problem is the defrost timer motor,it tells the fridge to de ice ,about every 10 hrs or so,if it gets stuck or burns out your evaporator will be a block of ice ,and the fan blowing on it wont transfer cold air,look in the bottom of the fridge by the compressor,
Art, I need to get a little more information from you. Does the condenser fan under the refrigerator seem to work and blowing warm air from below and or behind the refrigerator? The motor feeling warm is OK. Only when too hot to touch on top. Needs to cycle also. When you opened the freezer did you hear the fan blowing? Thanks, JT
air from the freezer fan, means the sensor- temperature control circuit is working right, it is trying to cool
there has likely been a leak from the system and there is not enough coolant left for the compressor to compress anything.
a GOOD repair guy
will have a pressure pump/gauge and test for leaks through the fill nozzle, repair them and regas the fridge (provided it is a non-CFC r12 fridge) without removing it from the home,
we bought a f&p fridge freezer and in summer noticed it wasn't cooling and the freezer wasn't freezing, when the service guy came out he noticed our ducted air con was blowing onto the fridge, once we had redirected the air con outlet the fridge started working as normal, apparently f&p's work on air being convected around the cabinet of the fridge and air blowing on the fridge can effect the temperature of the convected air. hope this helps you or someone
The compressor behind the fridge should cycle on and off as the machine maintains temperature, but the evaporator fan inside the freezer will keep running, except when the fridge goes into defrost. If the noise is coming from the fan inside the freezer, there could be some ice on the frame of the fan and the blades are touching the ice. If the noise is coming from behind the fridge it could be the condensor fan motor. This fan is situated behind the fridge in front of or next to the compressor. It keeps the condensor cool by blowing air onto it. Check this fan. The blades could be touching the pipework or something.
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