Hi there,
I have an issue with my Frigidaire side by side stainless steal w/ Ice and water dispenser. Unfortunately, I do not have the model number at hand. The issue is that when the water is hooked up, I get a water leakage in the front of the freezer door and underneath the water/ice dispenser panal. Before I noticed the leak, my daughter was getting some ice and smoke came out of the dispenser panal and a burning smell. I thought the boards fried, but they did not. Controls are still working. However, unplugged fridge, I took panal off, and disconnected dispenser contol board. I inspected both control broard and panal board (button board) and both did not look damaged and boards were very dry. (maybe some motor got wet inside the door causing the smoke??) I left boards disconnected and re-attached panal. We cleaned up water and hooked fridge back up. 10-15 minutes later, there was small puddle of water on the floor in front of freezer door again. I also noticed no ice was being made as well. So, its like the water is not making it to the ice maker and getting dumped on the floor. So, I disconnected water. No water leakage thus far. I was wondering what the issue could be. Another thing I noticed is a day before this issue occured, the fridge was making a wierd preasure noise when I would use the water dispenser. Almost like the water was being forced out. Is it possible a water line is clogged? Should I unplugg and defrost?
Okay, I did some trouble shooting last night. The water leakage is not coming from any of the waterlines or valves. The water is shooting out from the dispenser on it's own. (About 2/3 cups every 1/2 hour). This occurs when the ice make is set to on. Also, I reconnected my despenser contol board to see if it would work, but no dice. I got no power on the the panel. My buddy checked out the contol board for me with a power meter he said the diode on the right of the orange wire was not transfering power correctly and he noticed a bubble on the board next to the "most right" relay box. So we are thinking the board is fried. Which makes sense. So, I have reseached the issue further and found that a bad diode kid in the right rear of the frigerator (behind the water inlet valve) can cause the board to short out. Also, from what I read here in FixYa, it can cause the water to automatically shoot out from the dispenser. The diode kit is cheap (about $15-$20); however, the dispenser control board is pretty expensive at $100-$150. Both parts seem pretty easy to install. I will update this post if I decide to pull the trigger on the board and diode kit to see if it fixes my issue. It makes sense and seems to be what will fix my issue. I will do some part hunting and if I find a good deal, I will definitely buy the parts and give it a shot.Okay, I did some trouble shooting last night. The water leakage is not coming from any of the waterlines or valves. The water is shooting out from the dispenser on it's own. (About 2/3 cups every 1/2 hour). This occurs when the ice make is set to on. Also, I reconnected my despenser contol board to see if it would work, but no dice. I got no power on the the panel. My buddy checked out the contol board for me with a power meter he said the diode on the right of the orange wire was not transfering power correctly and he noticed a bubble on the board next to the "most right" relay box. So we are thinking the board is fried. Which makes sense. So, I have reseached the issue further and found that a bad diode kid in the right rear of the frigerator (behind the water inlet valve) can cause the board to short out. Also, from what I read here in FixYa, it can cause the water to automatically shoot out from the dispenser. The diode kit is cheap (about $15-$20); however, the dispenser control board is pretty expensive at $100-$150. Both parts seem pretty easy to install. I will update this post if I decide to pull the trigger on the board and diode kit to see if it fixes my issue. It makes sense and seems to be what will fix my issue. I will do some part hunting and if I find a good deal, I will definitely buy the parts and give it a shot.
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I believe that is possible, but it would be very costly; and obviously, not an easy task if you intend to do it yourself. You will have to replace both doors entirely in order to achieve the scheme that you would like to create.
flashing #4 is a communication error between the control board and the damper assy, usually it is the fault ogf the damper assy but if it is under mfg warranty, replace both, if you need to pay for the parts yourself get the damper first.
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Hi,
Hollow ice cubes are a result of lack of water to ice maker. This can be caused by lack of water pressure (clogged filter, bad water valve, obstructed fill tube, etc..) you will need to find the cause to correct this hollow ice cube issue. The ice maker should take on 5.5 oz of water when it cycles (2/3 cup). Mot of the time its a water supply issue and the line could be kinked behind the unit as it was rolled back into place.
you may have a real hi water pressure and the ice maker is overflowing tray closing the water supply haft way to reduce the pressure. ice maker fill up on a preset time and don't stop for water level there is a way adjust that but is easier this way.
I just resolved an issue with my kenmore elite side by side refrigerator icemaker (model 106).
It was expensive because I took the long road to fixing the unit myself.
My problem: No water going up to the freezer water dispenser into the
icemaker but the water in front of the door working just fine.
-first thing i tried was the simplest. The Internet is clogged with
this miracle fix of using a hair dryer to melt the frozen water line
going to the dispenser output. This is highly unlikely for our model
since the water line is protected within the refrigerator frame.
-2nd thing I replaced my water filter (thinking that there wasn't
enough water pressure to trigger the solenoid valve. $40, and still no
luck.
-3rd thing was I tested for voltage going to the solenoid. No voltage
going to solenoid, so I wasted $30 for a new solenoid.....still no
water.
-4th thing was I ordered a new IR sensor and receiver (since the
reciever end is where the relay that sends the voltage to the solenoid
to turn on and allow water to go up to the dispenser).
My IR sender and receiver appeared to be working flakey.
Installed, still no water. $58 BUCKS ON EBAY (EVERYWHERE ELSE $100+)
-I finally removed the freezer front little white door, I TURNED OFF
THE FREEZER SWITCH SO NO VOLTAGE WAS PRESENT, removed the release latch
underneath the freezer unit and disconnected, and removed the freezer
unit to inspect it further.
When I removed the protective white cover that covers the mechanical
wheel, I had a few parts come flying out of it. Turns out that the
wheel accessories were damaged. THERE ARE NO REPAIRABLE PARTS ON THE
FREEZER UNIT. I FOUND ONE ON EBAY FOR $39 BUCKS + $9 SHIPPING! $48
BUCKS, SWAPPED THE HARNESS AND BOTTOM COVER, AND IN 20 MINUTES, I WAS
BACK IN BUSINESS. STARTED MAKING ICE IN ABOUT A HALF HOUR!!!!!
when in doubt, replace the freezer unit for $48 bucks! 7 out of 10
times it will fix your problems. All techs replace the IR set at the
same time too which will set you back another $58 bucks.
Good luck! ;)
Bad I/M, won't shut off after harvest and continues to restart cycle. Heater in I/M should warm up thermostat after first harvest and stop unit from recycling.
Okay, I did some trouble shooting last night. The water leakage is not coming from any of the waterlines or valves. The water is shooting out from the dispenser on it's own. (About 2/3 cups every 1/2 hour). This occurs when the ice make is set to on. Also, I reconnected my despenser contol board to see if it would work, but no dice. I got no power on the the panel. My buddy checked out the contol board for me with a power meter he said the diode on the right of the orange wire was not transfering power correctly and he noticed a bubble on the board next to the "most right" relay box. So we are thinking the board is fried. Which makes sense. So, I have reseached the issue further and found that a bad diode kid in the right rear of the frigerator (behind the water inlet valve) can cause the board to short out. Also, from what I read here in FixYa, it can cause the water to automatically shoot out from the dispenser. The diode kit is cheap (about $15-$20); however, the dispenser control board is pretty expensive at $100-$150. Both parts seem pretty easy to install. I will update this post if I decide to pull the trigger on the board and diode kit to see if it fixes my issue. It makes sense and seems to be what will fix my issue. I will do some part hunting and if I find a good deal, I will definitely buy the parts and give it a shot.
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