I am trying to install a sith outlet comb. I have two orange wires and a ground wire in the box. If I do it one way then the switch works if I do it another way then the outlet works.

Have you tried to determine if the problem outlets might be controlled by a wall-switch? This could be the case if separate black wires coming into the box are being used for the different outlets.

Black to black (hot), Green to green (ground) and the only one left is of course white to blue. The (neutral) white wire can be many different flavors (blue, red, orange, brown, etc.).

If the outlet your plugging into (or controlled by the service panel breaker) is 15 Amps use a minimum of 14 gage wire (or 12 gage is even better), if its a 20 Amp outlet use 12 gage wires (or 10 gage). Don't use a 16 or 18 gage wire because it may get hot and start a fire because its undersize for the Amps.

If the wiring is BX cable (that is, the two wires are inside a flexible metal jacket that looks like a fat coil spring) (you would see the end of the metal jacket inside the box), and the box is metal, then the box is already grounded and you can install a jumper wire from the box to the ground terminal on the outlet. You might have to add a screw to the box. But if you don't have a grounded box, then the right thing to do is to rewire it all the way back to the main panel. On the other hand, if you simply skip the ground wire, the switch and outlet will work but they will be a little more dangerous than before because now you will have what LOOKS like a grounded outlet, but isn't. By the way, you should be using a ground fault protected outlet in a bathroom.
Good luck, be safe.

Yes.
The code is maximum 12 boxes per circuit breaker.
You can connect a 12-2 NM W/G cable to one of the outlets. Black-to-black and white-to-white and ground-to-ground. Black is hot, white is neutral, and ground is ground. And bring that cable into a hollow-wall box you install 50" high on the wall. Then run the 12-2 cable up to your light fixture.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/GE-15312-single-a-300.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/OWB1.html

You can also replace one of the outlets with a combo switch-outlet. The run singe 12-2 cable up to light.
This wiring diagram shows half way down how-to-wire-switches page.
Outlets have wide blade on neutral side, and narrow blade on hot side.
The black hot wires from old outlet connect to side of combo device with narrow blade.
The white neutrals from old outlet, and new wire going to switch, all connect to silver screw on wide-blade side of new combo device.
The black wire going to new light connects to screw next to switch located on wide-blade side of device.

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If it worked before, it should be a wire to wire replacement. You are replacing a regular switch/outlet with another switch/outlet which just happens to be a GFI outlet.
Wire the old switch wires to the new switch and the old outlet wires to the new outlet.
Cut the breaker/s off first !!

The Cooper combo device requires neutral wire to energize the outlet.
To control outlet with switch, the Hot side of device must have break-away fin.
Remove break-away fin.
Connect jumper wire from switch load side to outlet Hot side.
Open following link for instructions with illustration:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html#combo

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Open following link to see illustration:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Single-pole-switches-in-4-gang.jpg

Each residential electric box has 1 hot wire. This wire should be black.
Hot wire carries power from the breaker box.
Use tester and find hot wire.

Each device in box connects to the black hot wire using short jumper wires.

Outlets: Hot wire connects to brass colored screw.
Single-pole switches: Hot wire connects to either brass-colored screw.

Neutral wires are usually white, and are twisted together.
Neutral wires connect directly to silver screw on each outlet.

Wire going to lights connects to other brass screw on each switch.

You are installing a combo device with switch and outlet.
The outlet is tamper resistant so a child cannot stick a key into outlet and get shocked.
For the outlet to work, a 2-prong plug must be inserted.

Wiring the device:
Electricians don't guess, they test.
Device has different colored screws: dark, silver and brass.

Separate wires for testing.
Do not unwind wires that are twisted together.
White wires that are twisted together and located in back of box are included in testing.
Use ordinary 2-lead tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Turn power ON.

Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. This wire connects to dark screw.

Hot is identified.
Test Hot wire to all other wires, except bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. Neutral connects to silver screw.
If you do not have a Neutral wire, then outlet will not work for that location.
You can get the outlet to work by connecting bare ground to silver screw, but that is violation of code.

Last wire goes to Load (light, fan, motor).
Load wire connects to brass screw.
In your case, this is red wire.

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If the switch is an integral part of the GFCI outlet then it shouldn't need wiring.
I'm running on the assumption that your outlet is the same as those I have installed myself...
To wire a switch AFTER a GFCI...
There should be two brass coloured and two silver coloured screws on the outlet. The power from your panel attaches to the screws marked LINE and the wires that go to the switch are attached to the screws marked LOAD. This protects anything plugged into the outlet as well as the "fixture" served by the switch.
One VERY important issue is the grounding...Cut yourself a small (7" should do, 10" is about the limit) of bare groundwire from a spare piece of cable and marrette this "pigtail" with the two ground wires inside the box, then attach the end of the "pigtail" to the green screw on the GFCI.
As an added safety step, I run the "pigtail" around the green screw of the outlet and the ground screw of the metal box you're working in.
The wiring then goes to the switch where the black wire can be cut, then each end is wired to the screws and the white wire is continuous to the fixture

Hello GWarren,

If you already have the supply current coming into the present box, then you will first, make sure the power is turned "OFF" at the breaker panel before doing any work on this circuit.

Once the power is off, you would then run the supply, (incoming power line) to the bottom screws of the receptacle (outlet). the Black (Hot or Common) wire goes to the brass colored screw, while the White (Neutral) wire, goes onto the silver colored screw. Hook up the bare copper (Ground) wire to the Green grounding screw on the outle.

Now, you have power going to the outlet. For the light switch, it (I'm assuming) will control a light, either on the ceiling or wall mounted ones, etc. In order to do that, you would run another wire, typically #14/2 Awg with a ground, from the switch/outlet box to the bow where the light to be controlled by the switch, is located.

You will need to then connect a short piece of Black wire, about 8" long, from the outlet's brass colored screw (use the one without another wire connected to it, or double up with an existing wire, making sure they are both snug and secure). This should go to the BOTTOM of the light switch with the switch (look for "OFF" on the toggle, or see the metal strap for the proper orientation of the switch for determining which end is up!)

Now, the wires that go to the switched light: Take the white wire FROM the light and connect it to the white screw on the outlet. Now take the Black wire from the light location and connect it to the TOP of the light switch. Take the ground wire from the light location and connect it to the light switch AND over to the outlet ground. (If this is in a Metal box, you also have to attach the Ground wire to the metal box using a Green colored grounding screw, per Code requirements). As a Licensed Master Electrician, you should verify that your application meets the local requirements and codes, based on your location, as each part of the country has some special quirks to installations, based on their experiences. For instance, in Chicago, IL, you have to wrap electrical tape around all the device (outlets & switches, etc.) before they can be approved for installing into electrical boxes.

Please remember, there are several ways to accomplish the type of wiring you are looking to accomplish, and getting it done really depends on where your supply electricity is presently located (at the outlet/switch box or at the llight fixture, etc).

I would strongly suggest that you visit your local library and check out a Bacis Wiring Book, (or you can buy one at Home Depot or Lowes) so you better understand how to best wire your devices so they are done correctly, and most importantly, safely! If in doubt, ask a follow up quesions

You now have a constantly "live" outlet and have taken off power to control the switch that will operate your light fixture or device.

Here's some wiring drawings that might help you with your situation, as it covers 4 variations.

http://www.indepthinfo.com/wire-switch/

Again, if you have any doubts, please comment back and if possible, provide some photos of the electrical boxes you have and I'll try to help you figure it out!

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!