I get hE code....after the dryer has been on for a few minutes? is it the thermistor or the coil? if it is the thermistor where is it in the machine?

first would check ur venting to the wall and into and out of the machine? the blower? is it blowing hard or soft at the back exhaUST? IF THIS IS GAS then I would check the flame sensor, igniter and more than likely the safety valve and coils? I suspect the coils are not putting out enough pressure consistantly to keep the flame lit? check with an Ohm meter not just for continuity but for an OHMS rating as per ur schematic. it should be putting out a certain amount of ohms if the coils are bad u will get intermittent heat? the igniter and flame sensor will go on and off over and over.

Hi D Mc Cabe
Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or inside of the dryer venting system,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if you do not read continuity you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
Try to run the dryer, if it runs and heats up then replace the thermal fuse/thermistor/thermostat.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
But do not trust the ohm meter all the time, because sometimes it will give a false positive that the fuse is ok when in reality it is faulty.
DO THE FOLLOWING TEST:
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check the fuse/thermostat,thermistor for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
This test of the thermal fuses,thermistor,thermostat, will show if the thermal fuse,thermostat,thermister is really faulty or not.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc. If you have to replace your blower wheel it will remove clockwise as looking at the blower wheel. You will have to hold the belt end of the motor with a vise grip pliers or maybe the shaft of the motor has a notch cut on it for a wrench to fit.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
If you do not have a volt/ohm meter then:
DO THE FOLLOWING: Remove the wires and tape them together and try to start the dryer.If the dryer starts then replace the fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Bud

Hi bbryant981...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

Hi shadowand me2...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

The E1 displayed indicates the thermistor is open and needs to be replaced.

The connections can be loose but the most likely cause of an E1 error is a bad thermistor.

The dryer will not operate if the exhaust temperature drops below 18 degrees F. or exceeds 250 degrees F.

If you're comfortable and confident in your do-it-yourself skills and have access to a volt/ohm meter you can check and replace this part yourself.

The thermistor is available from the following: www.searspartsdirect.com

Enter your model # in the appropriate box to get a full parts break-down and diagrams.

To access the thermistor see the image below.

Remember to unplug the dryer from power first.

The thermistor will have a black and red/white wire on it.

You can check continuity across it with the meter and if the circuit is open then the thermistor needs to be replaced.



When the thermistor circuit is open (>50K ohms), the error code E1 flashes in the display.

When the thermistor circuit is shorted (

Normal thermistor resistance values:
60 degrees F. - 15.3K ohms.
70 degrees F. - 11.9K ohms.
80 degrees F. - 9.2K ohms.

The thermistor -may- check ok when cool and freak out when warm!

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wkrsfrgsskrbttbxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/wbsdwtgwgxwrgbbgsgs/1/1303472/5961857/image6767img-or.gif

HE3 Dryer: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wbfbgrrwtrrkfttxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kgwgwwwdkxkfkkgwgqs/1/1303472/5961857/image7127img-or.gif


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

The electronic control detected that the thermistor is open as indicated by the fault code E1. It's either the connection between the thermistor and the electronic control is broken or the thermistor is indeed open. Troubleshooting and repair is an easy task can be one in a couple of minutes. Make sure to unplug the dryer before attempting any repair work.

Remove the dryer's back panel to access and check the thermistor. Remove the screws securing the back panel then pull the panel off the cabinet and locate the thermistor on the blower housing.


Check to make sure the wires are snugly connected and there are no signs of bad contacts or corrosion. Disconnect the wires if there's no issue found with them and the connections then tape the wires together or jump a wire between them.

Put a few load of wet or damp clothing, plug the dryer in then start it. Error E2 should appear on the display to indicate that the thermistor has been shorted. It signifies that the electronic control and the wire harness are all good and the thermistor is indeed open. Replace the thermistor with part number 8577274.

Simply unscrew it from the blower housing, install the new one, and transfer the wires from the old to the new one. It actually doesn't matter to which terminal the wires should go since the thermistor is not polarized.

Feel free to update us about the development of the troubleshooting and repair should you have further questions.

Note: This advice is outlined for the purpose of troubleshooting without the use of a volt-ohmmeter. Simply check the resistance of the thermistor if a volt-ohmmeter is available. Refer to the table below for the correct resistance reading.

Hi there,

Well the error E1 message indicates that the thermistor is defective and needs to be replaced. 
Try unplugging the unit for a few minutes got rid of the error, but lately the temperature just hasn't been hot enough so the clothes don't dry. You must need to replace the thermistor for full working of your dryer. you may please follow the below steps to know how to change the thermistor -
1. Locate the thermistor on the top right hand side of your dryer. This will be a small platelet with a chip and wires coming out of it. Use your screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the thermistor on the unit.
2. Unplug the wires from the thermistor.
3. Plug the wires into your new thermistor. Replace the thermistor on the dryer and the screws holding it in place.
4. Replace the back panel of the dryer and plug your dryer back into the wall outlet.
5. Push your dryer back up against the wall and turn it on again.

Good Luck!!

Thanks for using FixYa!!

That is actually a Ts error.

Thermistor Short Sensed

The Thermistor resistance is very low.
Check for:
- Clogged lint screen.
- Restricted vent system.
- Check Thermistor resistance.

Thermistor is Item #27 HERE


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

E1 error code indicates an open thermistor or open thermistor circuit. A thermistor is a component that relays the temperature in the dryer to the control board. If the thermistor has failed, Error code E1 will be displayed.
You need to call a repair person to fix it.

This code is for a part called a "Thermistor". Its like a thermostat for an electronic machine.