Usually it's the electrolytic caps that go in those, they basically "cook" and dry out, a power spike just pushes them over the edge. I've also had this problem with mine & 2 12 volt switchers for my HD and for the satellite had the same fix. I added a fan which helps. Another solution is to go to a second hand store, find 3 power suplies (15v,15v, 5V) and put them in place of the existing one. I am considering that myself as the firewire packed it in again last month and I had to jump over to the other 5v regulator to get it going again, even tho it was only 0.2 v short! Cheers, Sandrine
The obvious answer is to repair the power supply. You can often find a manufacturer's name on the circuit board. Try this site for your schematic... check power supply is on page 4.
http://elektrotanya.com/phonic_helix_board_17.pdf/download.html
Scroll down the web page to "get manual" and click on it. Ignore the other download links as they are for other viewers. While this is for a Helix 17, it is LIKELY they use the same supply or very close to it in yours.
When repairing switching supplies use an isolation transformer for personal safety. Also put a 40 watt lamp bulb in series with the hot side of the power line to act as a resetable fuse to limit the current when testing.
Guys, finally figured it out. the problem is in the power supply, it's not well designed cooling wise. so the solution was to replace all capacitators, resistors, and then replace one chip and one diode,and added a fan extracting heat. aldo, i had made a new alluminum bottom cover with one more fan, and voila, no more blowned up power supply. thank you all for thoughts and suggestions
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hi, i have the same problem, but i can't figure out why the power supply is blowin'. you mentioned the service manual... do you have it, if so can you mail it to me? [email protected]
how do you gain access to this power supply - I've removed the 4 screws and it's not opening - my supply is blown pn: 0e7002101000 ac ac dapter
I had this problem and fixed it. You have to take off the bottom and back plates first, then remove a screw on the back that holds the power module in place.
Mine turned out to not be sending the +15 Volt line (a green cable). -15 was fine, and the +5 V digital on the firewire was working too.
I found a point on the supply board that was outputting +13.6 V. I re-soldered the green cable to that point, and VOILA, the board is working again. Very difficult to take the supply apart and test components. This worked for me...
Good Luck ! Hope your problem is the same.
James, I have the same problem.
Can you tell me where the +13.6V point is? I would solder the green cable there too.
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