I replaced the presssure switch, part # Z-AC-0789, there was a air leak coming from the switch. There is a copper tubing that is attached to the switch that runs into the air tank. After replacing the switch I turned it on and let it build up pressure to 120 lbs. It stopped running and it continued to leak from the switch in the same spot. Is it possible that the new switch is defective too ? Please let me know what to do next. Thank you, Rick Fresquez

"PE" error is related to the Harmonic pressure switch. Since the
part is electronic, I would suspect a clog at the air dome at the
bottom of the tub located at the rear of the machine. The pressure
switch is located at the top. Unplug the washer from power, you will need a small piece of 1/4" plastic tubing or copper tubing. Locate
the pressure switch, disconnect the 1/4" tube from PS. Attach the
PS hose to your plastic or copper extension tube. Try and blow thu.
You should hear bubbling of air. Draw alittle water in by sucking and
blowing several times. This should clear any thing lodged in the lower
air dome. Before you reattach the hose to pressure switch, first trim
1/4 '" of hose off, for a tight fit. But before attaching hose, plug in washer and Press POWER, Press SPIN SPEED, Press START
to activate pump to remove all the water left in the tub. Next lower the
Pump's Trap Door at the bottom left corner of the cabinet. Using a kitchen trash bag, Extend the black rubber hose into trash bag and remove the plug. Turn off the machine when all water has been
evacuated.. Unplug washer and reattach the hose to the pressure
switch and try again.. IF error returns replace Pressure Switch..

No! Check the condenser isn't clogged up first. Then check all internal filters and fans. Check for leaks with an electronic detector and repair any leaks before vacuuming the system and maybe then replacing the refrigerant.

The check valve in the receiver tank is leaking. the check valve is located in the top of the tank where the copper discharge line from the compressor attaches. Shut off the power and bleed all the air from the receiver. Remove the copper line then remove the brass check valve. Once removed look in the check and make sure trash of some type is keeping it open. If trash is the problem clean and install. If not it will need to be replaced.

hello there, You need to charge a freon thats why you cant get a better cooling, ask a technician to do the job for charging your freon, because charging a freon is not easy and you still check if the copper tube that connected to the condenser is have leak. thanks

Hi,
It seems as though you have an unrelated water leak....
Often the water supplies are copper tubing....
Copper tubing and concrete do not get along well...
but hey it lasts till the warranty is up....
and they can't see it from their house...

heatman101

well look at the costs of replacing them then the cost of new heater which may be better if this has not been used for years

That little copper line is an unloading line, to bleed compressed air out of the compressor head so that the motor can more easily start the compressor. Pressor switch should be threadded into top of air tank, and the unloading valve is built into the side of the switch. When the tank reaches the high pressure setting the switch disconnects power to the motor and opens the unloading valve at the same time. The unloading valve should be connected to the compressor discharge line through a check valve with an unloading valve port upstream of the check valve. These valves are usually threaded into the top of the air tank as well. Sounds to me like your valve was leaking and someone bypassed it.

Measure the outside diameter of the vinyl tubing and then go to the hardware store and purchase a foot or two of soft copper tubing of an inside diameter that will just slide over the vinyl tubing and extend it for you. To attach the copper tube to the window sash you can use some crazy glue that is designed for both metal and what ever substance your sash is made from [usually either wood or stone].

That tube is the A/C drain port. Your problem is the heater core is leaking and draining from the A/Cdrain port. I hope this helps.
Thank You,
Roy