Hi Frank and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. This pump motor has 2 capacitors on on top and one behind the rear gaurd. You should isolate the capacitors by removing one wire from them and then test them with a meter. Probe both terminals. Watch for a momentary jump on the meter and then drift to infinity. Do this with BOTH capacitors. If they check good then inside the motor there is a centrifugal switch that slides side to side on the armature shaft. If the slider is stuck or the switch terminals that it presses against are burned yu can have the symptom you describe. The bad thing about this switch is I have ot found a source for it anywhere. You either repair the contacts or you replace the motor. The motor is outrageous in price. I see them retail from $249.00
http://www.qualityaircompressors.info/?s=Z-D23360
to just over $417.00. If you determine you need a motor... take some time shopping for a replacement. The motor part number is: Z-D23360 or Z-D26712 (replacement / alternate for original.)
Primary motor from Sears:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/Z-D23360/0009/919?pathTaken=partSearch&filterPart=&pop=flush&prst=0&shdPart=Z-D23360
Alternate motor from Sears:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/Z-D26712/0009/919?pathTaken=partSearch&filterPart=&pop=flush&prst=0&shdPart=Z-D26712
^^--I have to assume that the first number is the whole pump motor assembly and the 2nd number is the motor only.
Start capacitor 625622-001 (grainger website) or original pn that is only availble through distributors of 625622-1 (grainger adds a 00 before the final number)
Make sure you read the contents of this link:
http://www.bobvila.com/forums/Tools/posts/41656-6-hp-30-gal-1-stage-compressor-won-t-start-trips-breaker-fyi
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
There should be 3 to 4 motor winding wires. The wire that goes to the capacitor should read from the outpt of the capacitor all the way to the power cord plug. You will be reading through the winding to the power cord. Same goes for the other motor winding. probe the start switch terminals on the input side of the start switch an red back to the power cord. I suspect that the motor start switch has failed. If so what that will do is cause the motor to buzz because it is not allowing the capacitor to start the motor so the buzz your hearing is the humm of the run winding ony. If you could some how spin the motor while it is humming you may see it try to run. Maybe by carefully rotating the fan blade as fast as you can you could get it going. Since there is a compressor pump assembly load on the motor I doubt it.
Good luck finding just the motor start switch. You most likely would have to personally visit a motor rewinding shop IF you can find one to get a start switch. Maybe you could do it over the phone with the number off of the motor. They would need the NEMA numbers off of the motor if they are even imprinted on it.
Kelly
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ok. Capacitors chk good. slide sw and contacts chk good w/ no signs or burn of burning. How do u check the motor ? I ohmed out both red and black motor leads after disconnecting from capacitors and check them to case w/ infinity reading....???
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